I am new to this forum and any help would be much appreciated! I just purchased a 95 Accord that I believe is stuck in limp mode (will not exceed 3500 rpm). There was no check engine light, even in test (turn 2 position) so I took apart the gauge cluster to inspect the wires/bulb and it turns out that the cel bulb was bad. I replaced the bulb and did the light blink test which threw a #4 code (CKP sensor?). I checked out the computer under passenger carpet and there was wiring that had seemed to have been hacked and spliced for whatever reason. I then noticed 2 sensors/connectors that were mounted to a bracket just hanging near the timing cover. The car is idling very rough, strong smell of gas out of the exhaust and will not rev past 3500 rpm. I understand that OBD1 CKP sensor is in the distributor where entire distributor will need to be replaced and OBD2 is near the bottom of the timing cover. It looks to me as if previous owner possibly tried to change from OBD1 to OBD2 for some reason? Possible engine swap? How can I tell, or what do you suggest is the next step? Please help!!

On a side note, the car is now leaking oil (seems to leak only when running) and white smoke coming from exhaust. I assume this is an entirely different issue which I will tackle once I fix the limp mode/sensor issue.


Car was purchased a week ago and here is what I have done so far.

oil change, new plugs/wires, new air filter, ECT sensor

 

It might be that someone put an OBD-2 engine into an OBD-1 car. Can I assume it's not a V-6???

Just guessing the scenario...
The CKP/TDC sensor down at the crankshaft pulley would be left hanging because the car's OBD-1 computer doesn't use that. He would install his old (OBD-1) distributor which contains the OBD-1 CKP sensor.

You could look at part # or serial # of the car's computer, to convince yourself if that's how the car is set up. But that seems to be the easy way compared to converting the CAR over to OBD-2. But it doesn't explain the splicing job at the computer...

So...
Look at wiring for the distributor, for loose/dirty/corroded connections. Look inside the distributor for red dust - indicating a bad bearing/seal and dust which messes up the sensors inside there.

 

Thanks alot for the response, I appreciate the help. The inside of the distributor looks pretty clean. I noticed when I pulled the cap that it looked as if it was bought from a parts yard (had written orange markings) Not sure if that makes a difference. I re-connected all loose wires that feed into the computer and pulled the computer out as well. It has a mfr date of November 1994 so I assume still OBD1. There are two sets of wires coming out of the distributor and I pulled apart the connectors. One of them looked ok, the other not so much. It was black all around the female as if it has somehow burnt out or something. Any suggestions as to what I might do next? Is it possible previous owner attempted to rig up OBD2 distributor? Seems that might explain the cut wires and/or burnt out connector. I also cleared the code by disconnecting negative terminal, not even 30 seconds after I started the car cel came back on and still in "limp mode" Any input/suggestions would be great!

 

And to answer your question, yes it is a 4cyl vtec. I believe h22.

 

Try disconnecting the 8 pin TDC/CKP/CYP connector from the sensor. Measure resistance between sensor terminals 2 & 6 (blu/green and blu/yel) wires. If there is no resistance then replace distributor. It should be between 350&700 for F22B2 engine or 700 to 1300 otherwise. If there is resistance then check for continuity to ground for each terminal (same colored wires as for previous test but do one at a time ensuring proper ground. If there is continuity then replace distributor. After that it gets a little more complicated, it can be an open in the sensor wire or a short to ground, or the ECM.

If by chance they did swap to an OBDII setup they might have put a service connector into the car and they might have put it where Honda put them on the 96 and 97's which is behind the ash tray. Pull it out and see if there is an OBDII connector there. Also if by chance they did swap the system then your wire colors noted above might not be hooked up the same for testing purposes.

Note- the above test need to be done with the ignition/key off.

Continue with this information and post back.

 

H22 would be DOHC. It should be F22 (single-camshaft). If the previous owner had actually installed an H22 engine, that would be good for us to know.

 

I'm sorry you're right F22 i just checked. Thanks Turtlehead, I will try that and get back to you. I appreciate it.

 

Ok, I tested resistance between terminals 2 and 6 like you said. The reading was 830 so I assume that is good? I tested for continuity to ensure proper ground and there wasn't any. I went and pulled a used distributor from the u-pull it yard and swapped them out. Same thing, car starts up, runs very rough, will not rev past 3500 rpm and throws the check engine code 4. There wasn't an OBDII behind the ashtray so it seems as if Jim may have been correct about the possibility of them putting an OBDII engine into the OBDI car, leaving the OBDI distributor in it. I'm not quite sure where to go from here, any other suggestions as to what I might do next? Thanks again for all of the help.

 

Suggest to next try checking resistance of CKP sensor at the ECM harness side connector. Resistance should be nearly the same as at the distributor connector. If not, suspect a wiring or connector fault.

If resistance is same, then ECM may be at fault. I had this problem w/ CYP sensor (Code 9) and solved problem w/ ECM replacement. This fault is not common but we've seen a few in the past.

good luck

 

Ok thanks, i'll give that a try. Should this test be done with the car off as well? I appreciate it.