I have a 1995 honda accord lx 2.2 non vtec. it will start right up most of the time other times it cranks but takes a few turns of the key to start. when it starts up it will run and stall intermittently and when it stalls ive checked for spark at the external ignition coil and there is no spark when i try and restart the car, but spark will come back with a few turns of the key and the car will start back up and run fine. it seems to only do this when the motor is cold. if i keep starting the car when it stalls and let it warm up it doesnt stall. ive already replaced the ignition coil, ignition switch, main relay and cap and rotor and had the ignitor in the distributor tested at auto zone and it passed the test so i put it back in. also i tryed to start the car earlier and it tryed to start but seemed to bogg down right away and white smoke seemed to be coming from the air filter box area. this is really confusing to me and id appreciate any advice, thanks in advance.:c onfused:

 

also exhaust smells sweet and liquid puddle drips from tailpipe and seems to be a little rusty if that means anything lol

 

exhaust smells sweet ?? That could mean coolant in the combustion...like a head gasket weeping. Check to see if you are losing coolant
As far as the stalling; I would keep a test light handy and check for power at the black/yellow wire at the distributor when the engine stalls; that could prove a fault in the ignition switch. Another symptom to look for when it stalls is the tach stops[ falls down to zero] and there are no oil/batt lites

 

The oil and bat light both come on when it stalls. Could this possibly be bad ignition timing?

 

If the timing was off, the car would have issues all of the time.

Check for engine codes. See the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum for a link on how to check engine codes.

 

I jumped the harness and the cel blinks 3 times. So that means code 3 which is map sensor correct? Would that cause symptoms like this?

 

A code 3 means the engine control unit (ECU) detected a problem in the MAP sensor circuit. It could be the sensor, the wiring, or the ECU.

Has any work been done on your car lately? Does the check engine light turn on while driving?

You should do some tests before replacing the map sensor. They are listed in the shop manual (see link in common diy thread mentioned above for a 94 shop manual). You would first check for ~5V to body ground on the wht/yel wire going to the map sensor with the key in the II position.

 

Ive done work on it but nothing with wiring or the map sensor. The cel is not on while driving it flashes 3 times when i jump the service connector though. When i unplug the map sensor when the car is running it stalls the same exact way it does when cold as i described earlier

 

The reason I asked about work on the car is that the plug for the map sensor could be switched with the TPS. Make sure the three wire colors going to the map sensor are yel/wht, grn/wht, and wht/yel.

Also inspect the pins and the wiring near the map electrical connector.

I hate suggesting throwing a map sensor on a car, and the real problem be the wiring or ECU.

The voltage test is pretty simple that I suggested before. ~5V on the wht/yel wire to ground (I use a valve cover bolt nearby). Then test for ~5V from the wht/yel wire to the grn/wht wire.

 

The car will start and run fine though and stall without any warning do i have to wait until it stalls to do that test? And i just take a voltmeter to the wires with or without the sensor plugged in?