Hi Dan, Looked thru all of your pics, and the oil across the bottom of the evap coil appears to be coming from the power steering cooler and or it's lines. I say that as those areas are wet too.
As for parts, I'd try and get what I can/could from a pick n pull (junkyard), and then shop both Rock Auto and ebay (compare prices and availability) as both places have some of the stuff, but prices are all over the map between them, especially when you add shipping (some stuff ships for free on ebay, but the price will be higher most of the time).

As for a junkyard or pick n pull, I'd look in the yellow pages, or even do an on-line search for 1 close by, or 1 that deals in īmport" cars. I'm sure there's at least 1 in your area. Plus, most places will want a business address to ship a hood (a friend of mine bought 1 like that).

I'd still get a ratchet strap and attach it to where the hood latch was, and do a pull from that point (connect the other end to a tree or something heavier than the car, and either give it a light jerk, or tighten the strap up and give it a swat or 2 with a hammer to help it go back where it was.

You'll need to do a little body work in that area anyway, so you can re-attach the hood latch. Channel locks, slip jaw pliers, small and medium pry bars will help move the metal around. A couple of hammers will help too. I say that as you'r going to need to adjust it as you go.

The accident looks like it happened to the right (in the car) of center, and put most of the energy into that part of the nose. It does still drive straight right? Just asking, as I can't tell if the right rail was pushed back. Your photos don't show anything that looks like it moved, so you might be fine.
As for the door, I'd ask a "paintless dent removal" place and see if they can take it out (looks pushed in). I don't know if it's "too big" for them to do or not. An alternative (might do more harm) would be to try a toilet plunger to it and see if that would get it out. Otherwise, you're looking at removing the inner door panel and pushing it out from the inside.

I bought my manual for my 97 (covers 94-97 models) from Helm inc. It comes as 2 books that are 2 inches thick each, and cover the car in great detail (both styles of 4 cylinder engines). I bought mine mainly to work out the electrical part of the fuel injection, as I was having an issue with it it raght after I bought the car. But it also helped when doing the timing belts. What's nice about a paper book is that you can carry it where you're working and reference it as needed. A couple of bookmarks, and you can flip from section to section that you're working on. A lap is a little clunky at times, and the screen can be a little small. I do know there was a link either here on HAF, or maybe it was on Honda Forums that offered a free download of the manuals. I wish I had bookmarked the link for the on-line manuals.
Sorry for the length of the reply, but I hope it helps.

 

Dan, I found that link I was looking for. Here it is.
Accord - Downloads - Hondahookup.com

 

Toecutter - Thanks for the info! I'm going to read it several times so I don't miss anything. Great download site too.
Is the 95 Accord in the CC7 series?
And do you think there is very much difference between the U.S. and the "non-USDM" Accords? I downloaded the file: Honda Accord 1993 - 1995 (CC7) Manual (non-USDM). The diagrams look like the right ones to me - The steering wheel is on the left - so everything else should be OK!
There is a diagram guide to check for steering fluid leaks - I'll look into that. I'm hoping that what you saw was water from the snow that had been packed in there but I'll check to make sure.

Still waiting for the insurance estimator to show up. I guess the holiday traffic combined with Winter road conditions has kept them pretty busy.

Thanks again!
Dan

 

Hi Toecutter and others,
Thanks for all the good info! I replied yesterday, previewed the reply, then clicked on post reply. And it's gone. Dang. I can only come up with a few intelligent thoughts each day - and now those are gone. Shoot! There were some really good questions in there.
I downloaded some service manuals from your link. Do you think there is very much difference between the U.S. Accords and the "non-USDM".
I looked over the car more today. All fluid levels are good except the tranny fluid is at the bottom of the marks. There aren't any signs of leaks around the tranny. There is "oily moisture" on the hoses of the steering fluid cooling system but the reservoir is full.
Engine started quickly. Ran kind of "bumpy" for a minute then smoothed out.
I tried to test the A/C but
1) I don't think it was working very well before, and
2) it was about 28 degrees out. I tried recirculating the air while heating up the interior then set the temperature to low. The air coming out of the vents was barely colder. Probable time for an A/C recharge. I'll wait a few months - sure don't need it right now.
I'm thinking that I will have to replace the Radiator Support. The crumples in it now will be very difficult to smooth out and I'm concerned about getting it to line up with all the pieces that attach to it. There is a clip missing on the right side - I can see where it was spot welded.
Comparing right side to left I am understanding more about all the pieces that are missing. Such as the structure that supports the headlight module. And I don't have a clue how many fasteners are missing.
I'm thankful that neither my son or anyone else was hurt in the accident. But I sure wish that he had brought home more of the pieces.
I will be reading your replies again. I really appreciate the knowledge and experience that you are sharing!
I will be digging into the manuals that I downloaded and maybe buying the set from Helm. There are a lot more missing parts to put on the shopping list. Maybe I can find a matching front end.
More later.
Hey, Thanks again!
Dan

 

I hate when that happens, and I'm a victim of it more often than I like.

PAHonda told me that the difference isn't that much, mainly just suppliers, as I had asked him if I there were differences between them as I have a Japan built 99 Accord LX ULEV car. And going off the differences between it and my wife's Ohio built 2000 Accord LX ULEV, the differences aren't that much (like PA said mainly different suppliers). The FSM (Factory Service Manual) doesn't discriminate between the different manufacturing locations, as the parts shown are the same, and in the same locations. This means if you're missing some parts, you'll need to hunt them up.
It's possible that you might have a trans leak then if the power steering res is full, and the trans fluid low. I think the trans cooling line is below and in front of the radiator, and this might be where all the fluid on the AC unit came from.
As for replacing the core support, if you know a good welder, or have access to 1, then go ahead and replace it. It'll make life easier in the long run. The missing clip might come on the new one too. Yours has some pretty significant damage/dents in it, and you'd probably have to add some shims to get everything to line up again.
We (my son and I) replaced 1 on his 98 Civic before, as the insurance company told him it needed to be replaced in order for him to be able to get full coverage insurance again. We just drilled out the spot welds, and drilled new ones and plug welded the new one in place. Then primed and painted it to match the car. Once done, you'd never know it had been done. We also found a twisted frame rail (probably why the insurance company totaled it) that we had to straighten. A couple of blocks of wood, a cable come along and some time took the twist out of it. It just sucked that it was trying to snow the day we were doing it. Sorry, I'm rambling again.
But yes, study the parts blow up diagrams, as you'll be able to figure what you're missing, and then see about tracking down those parts.
I hope this helps.

 

No Surprise - the insurance company decided that the car is totaled.
Good Surprise - After deducting a salvage value of $225 we get a check for $2,852. Thanks State Farm! And there's a chance - Fingers Crossed - that with over 10 years accident free and the fact that I've been with them for 44 years, our rates might not go up. Fingers crossed AND holding breath!
Time will tell.
Ok, so now I need to buy another Honda quickly because I only have 7 days left on the rental car coverage and it will take me a month to get this car roadworthy. Any longer than that and my better half says that I have to get rid of it. ( she doesn't want our home turning into a wrecking yard ) I can appreciate that.
I will take my pictures of the Accord to an auto collision repair shop tomorrow and try to get an idea of what it will cost to do various parts of the job. Cutting and welding rail straightening and A/C stuff are definitely beyond me but it might make more sense to have some other things done too.
Tonight I start shopping for a 1995 - 2002 - ish Accord or Civic. I'm really hoping to fit my Accord 14" wheels and snow tires on the new car.
Well, I better get to it. Thanks again for all the advice! I'll try to put it to good use!
Dan
PS: Any thoughts on how to be a smart car buyer are more than welcome! I've had terrible luck so far. ( except for the Accord and , so far, the CRV ) (knock on wood!)

 

Get the maintenance records if possible, especially when the timing belt was last changed along with the water pump and tensioners. I linked some videos about inspecting used cars that should help.

Not sure about your budget for a car, but I'd say the 96/97 accord, or a 2003-2007. I've seen too many transmission issues on the 98-02 automatics, especially the V6 on this site. A manual transmission is a different story and didn't have issues.

 

I do have to agree with PAhonda, in thhat the amount of money won't get you as far as you'd really like. The 98-02 Accord AT's have problems, but I'm glad nobody told me before I bought my wife's car, otherwise I wouldn't have bought, and I probably wouldn't have any of the other Hondas in the yard. But hers has the AT, and it's been fine for the last 20K miles. I do need to go in and do an oil change on the trans. She/we really like the car, and it's been a good one too, but it's also a 4 cylinder car. The other Accords have MTs, so they're not a problem (1 is a 97, and 1 is a 99).

Unfortunately any repair place is going to give a high estimate, so you won't have an extra out of that. I only say that, as body shop labor runs about 85 an hour or more depending on where you are in the US. It won't take many hours and materials to burn thru it quickly.

Your idea on getting a 96-97 might be good. It should be in your price range, and the inside will be familiar to you. Honda didn't change too much during the life span of a particular body series group (4th or 5th or 6th or 7th gens as examples). I'm kind of surprised your car has 14's on it, as all of the Accords here have 15's. My son's 98 Civic has 14's on it though. But around here Civic's are "high dollar" cars, in that they really hold their value, and even increase it a little (think high end of KBB).

 

Hi guys - Thanks again!
I will watch all the videos - thanks!
Regarding wheel size - I was concerned about getting a car that couldn't use our snow tires and all season tires - all mounted and fairly new. Heck, the all seasons are Michelins with less than 2,000 miles on them.
My research may be a little spotty, but I got the impression that the 89 to 02 Accords all used 14" wheels Except for the EX and/or the V-6's.
I have considered getting a Civic as the body sizes have grown over the years. I'm not sure about previous years (heck, I'm not sure about much of anything) but it appears that the 01 to 05 Civics also used the 4 bolt 14" wheel.
Again, this is all based on one or more tire / wheel size equivalency chart web sites. And of course, now I can't find the web sites to double check.
Depending on what the collision repair shop says - I may just pull out the alarm and stereo and take the wheels off then sell the Accord. I don't have a garage to work in so I may be biting off more than I can handle.
Thanks!
Dan

 

Hi,
Here's the wheel size cross reference web site that I found. Please let me know if you find different results than I did. I'm still trying to learn the lingo and may have made a mistake.
Thanks,
Dan

www.Wheel-Size.com