96 Accord intermittent ignition/no crank issue
#1
96 Accord intermittent ignition/no crank issue
This has been giving me headaches since I bought the car a month ago. First thing in the morning, I can start the car no problem. Throughout the day, for instance if I'm running errands or doing something that requires a lot of stopping and turning off the car, it will give me issues starting back up again. At first, I'd just have to keep turning the key to start, and after a few tries, it would kick on no problem. Starting a couple days ago, I've had to let it sit awhile before attempting to restart it, as I'd get nothing other than a click from the general vicinity of the starter.
All the dash lights and chimes act normal. So far I've tried replacing the ignition switch, the main fuel pump relay, and the positive battery cable, which was pretty badly corroded. The battery is brand new and has tested fine at Autozone. I'd think it were an issue with the starter, but he starter and alternator are both new, according to the mechanic that worked on the car for the previous owner. I'm running out of things to diagnose.
Anyway, the car runs like a champ once it gets started. It's a 96 Accord EX, 4cyl automatic, 2.2L VTec. If anyone has any thoughts, I'm all ears.
All the dash lights and chimes act normal. So far I've tried replacing the ignition switch, the main fuel pump relay, and the positive battery cable, which was pretty badly corroded. The battery is brand new and has tested fine at Autozone. I'd think it were an issue with the starter, but he starter and alternator are both new, according to the mechanic that worked on the car for the previous owner. I'm running out of things to diagnose.
Anyway, the car runs like a champ once it gets started. It's a 96 Accord EX, 4cyl automatic, 2.2L VTec. If anyone has any thoughts, I'm all ears.
#2
A badly corroded battery cable can cause these symptoms. To diagnose you measure voltage drop across the cable (battery post to starter connection for positive). If you measure more than about 0.5V on either positive or negative, then replace them.
Procedure is detailed in this video.
good luck
Procedure is detailed in this video.
good luck
#4
If you rule out bad connection or weak battery cables, then starter is likely.
It is not unusual for starter solenoid contacts to wear out and produce only a click when keyswitch is turned to start. Repeated applications of Start will usually result in eventual start, but at some point the contacts will not carry enough current and you will only hear a click.
Bad starters "out of box" are not usual, but do happen.
good luck
It is not unusual for starter solenoid contacts to wear out and produce only a click when keyswitch is turned to start. Repeated applications of Start will usually result in eventual start, but at some point the contacts will not carry enough current and you will only hear a click.
Bad starters "out of box" are not usual, but do happen.
good luck
#5
So, it's not the cables. Positive and negative are both now brand new. A friend mentioned it could be the fuel pump, but I would think the car would at least crank if that were the case. Guess the next thing to do is pull the starter and have it tested.
#7
Welp, bit of a delay but it turns out the starter was the problem. Was easy enough to replace, except I cracked the old plastic stock air intake while removing it to access the starter. Gotta replace that next - was thinking of upgrading it anyway. For the time being, it's all held together by duct tape. Got more important issues to deal with first. This thing has not been the easiest car to deal with.
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