OKHonda Guys. I've inherited a '96 Accord w/V-Tech and many issues torundown. The first issue, that has me stumped, is starting. I havenot come across anyone that has had this specific issue. TheirsUsually won't start, because either no fuel or no spark. This one'sdifferent.

Turnthe key, fuel pump cycles as it should, pressure in fuel rail, enginecranks over normal will not start. Replaced Ignition Module andinstalled a different Computer. While troubleshooting I noticed whenI tested signal from Computer to distributor I got a flash with testlight when first turned key to start but more flash while itcontinued to crank. Put Dist. Cap back on, when I first turn key Iget a spark, only one spark, no spark as it continues to crank. Justbump the starter, I get one spark every time. Hook up everything,just bump turned key to just bump the starter a few times, enginestarts and runs good. A strong, smooth running engine. V-Tech kicksin and gets up and goes.

Doesn'tmatter if engine cold, warm or hot, (of course, because it's gottencolder, it takes a little longer to catch in the morning). It doesn'tmatter if I cycle the fuel pump 5-10 times before attempting tostart. What remains consistent, the only way it will start is by justbumping the starter, (allowing for only 1 spark while starting). Italso has an IAC Issue and a Fan non-op issue, those faults shouldn'tcause the 'only one spark at start' problem. I'll hit everyone up onlater posts if I run into problems with those issues.


Do,you see my delema? A bad Ign Switch or Master Relay; a faulty FuelPump, Ign Module or ECU; Burned up Coil, Distributor Pick Up orDistributor Cap are all ruled out because it will start and run goodand it doesn't matter time of day, hot or cold.

Anybodyhave experience with this issue??

 

I think you have narrowed down the problem to lack of spark when cranking the engine.

Back-probe the blk/yel wire going to the distributor. Use a volt meter (or a test light) to test for voltage on that wire when cranking. That wire should have 12V when cranking the engine. Let us know what you find.

 

I'd have to guess it was the ignition switch itself. If it were the master relay it wouldn't start at all. Given that a quick bump of the starter gets it going, and it runs well once it starts I vote that eliminates everything else in the ignition system. I'm not intimately familiar with your vehicle but what you've written points to a faulty ignition switch (IE it loses contact if turned too far) or circuit in the column rather than any other ignition component under the hood....if it were anything else, I think it would affect a running engine as well as a starting one.

No I don't think a faulty IAC will cause what you're experiencing nor will a non-operational fan......sean

 

PAHonda, Thanks you put me on the right track. There was voltage with Ign Switch in position II but voltage went away in start position. Then I remembered, about a year and half ago my daughter and her boy friend broke down on the highway. I found the Ign switch and master relay shorted. I repaired the circuit card in the master relay but the work around for the Ign switch was I moved the wire in the plug from terminal 6 to terminal 2. This allowed me to get the car going by bump starting getting her off the highway. When I got around to replacing the Ign Switch, I didn't reverse the wiring in the plug. I have now corrected this and uvula, problem solved.
Again, Thanks PAHonda and NorCalAccord you were on target too.

 

And yes the color of the wire at the ign sw is, you guessed it, Blk/Yel