I have a 1996 Honda Accord that's not starting up, but ran fine when I parked it 4 months ago. Battery is weak, so tried jumping it...its trying hard, but still not firing up. Cleaned the battery terminals and cable connectors, made sure distributor cap wasnt wet, even scuffed up the 4 metal tabs inside with a nail file to ensure a good spark, checked plugs and wires, everything's good. Sprayed starting fluid into throttle body and it started very briefly, but quit within a second...so I've finally come to the conclusion that it must be a fuel problem, right? Fuel relay is clicking on, but I can't hear the pump. Loosened the bolt to the main line going on the fuel rail though, and gas is coming out, so the pump has to be working, right? I don't know what else to check, please help!

 

It sounds like it is a fuel problem.

First thing I would do is add maybe a gallon of gas to make sure the tank is not empty.

The next part is to figure out if the fuel relay is sending power to the fuel pump. Do you have a volt meter or a test light?

 

I added 2 gallons of gas the other day, its reading 1/4 tank full, do you think that's enough? Also checked the wires running to pump with a meter, and it's getting voltage. Since I couldn't hear the pump running when I turned it over, I figured that was the culprit too...but like I said before, there's gas coming out of the main line to the fuel rail when I loosen the bolt, so shouldn't that mean that everything up to that point is working properly? Especially after sitting for 4 months, everything in the lines should have evaporated out by now, so the gas coming out of the line should be "fresh" I'm thinking too.

 

That is enough gas. Just want to eliminate the basic items.

No starts are typically from a lack of spark or a lack of fuel. Spark is easier to verify.

Do you have a timing light? That is the most definitive way to verify spark.

Watch this video to see how to check fuel pressure. Google mdpP4wxBvpA
Don't do any more tests until the gas has evaporated.

Have you checked for error codes? On the 96, you still can short the service connector under the glove box. See the writeup in the DIY section on how to get CEL codes.

Since I'm a mod and can see your IP, I see that you are located in my hometown.

 

I'm still kinda new to major DIY stuff btw...no don't have a timing light, but took plugs out, stuck them back into the wires, and grounded them to check for spark, so I know they're good. I also don't have a compression tester, but may be able to borrow one. Haven't checked for error codes, don't know anything about shorting the service connector. Have a plug-in for a diagnostics machine behind my ash tray, but can't get my hands on a machine without going to a shop in the car. This is turning into such a headache. Would it be worth it to check my fuel injectors? If so, how difficult is it, and how do you do it?

I'm sorry to hear you're from my area, you must be as bored as I am from the lack of entertainment around here, no wonder we have time to DIY, lol!

 

Your 96 has two ways to check codes. The OBD2 connector behind the ash tray, and the OBD1 connector under the glove box. The only tool you need is a thin paperclip to short the OBD1 connector.

Just copy and paste the link into your browser on how to do this. Click on the CEL check link. It is pretty simple and quick to do. Your car will only have the two pin connector under the glove box on the 96 accord.

dhost.info/accordinfo/

There are some preliminary tests to do on the fuel injectors. Unplug the electrical connector to the injectors. There is a metal clip that you have to push off. See step 4 of the how to clean the EGR in that dhost site.

The injector plugs will have one wire color the same between all of them, and I think it is red/blk. See if the red/blk wire on each injector plug has 12V to body ground (use a valve cover bolt) when the key is in the II position. If you get a 12V test bulb at radioshack, you can hook it across the pins of each injector, the light should flash when you try to start the car.

Did you get that amount of fuel to spray out when you turned the key to the II position? Do you have an alarm on your car?

I miss the gun metal grey skies all winter.....

 

Oh wow that IS really easy to short the connector, thanks a TON for all the advice. Have an autozone very close to me, so will probably go get that 12v test bulb too. Will definitely be doin some more work on Sunday, weather permitting, and I'll let ya know how it goes. Even if it's something small and stupid, I think I'm still going to clean the EGR, probably needs it anyway, car just rolled over 210K! That site is so self-explanatory, I love it! Thanks sooo much

As for the fuel coming out of the main line to the fuel rail...i had already sprayed starting fluid into throttle body and tried to start it a few times prior to checking that line...so when I loosened the banjo(?) bolt, it just started leaking out...I'm guessing it was still freshly pumped from me trying to start it prior to. Didn't even have to turn my key to get it to leak out. Is that bad?

No alarm on the car either.

I do agree with u and love the skies as well as the seasons in this area also, but am starting to hate the snow and cold, especially when I have to work on my car with no garage...I get to wait wait wait for a nice day, and cross my fingers, toes, eyes, arms, and legs hoping it stays that way until I finish. Also getting tired of having to keep up with bad fenders since I get lots of snow and am in love with my hondas...we all know how that goes!

Have a good one! Thanks again! will be back in a few days to let ya know how my progress is coming. Wish me luck, hope it's nothing major!

 

Your accord doesn't have the standard schrader valve to test fuel pressure. That was why I asked if your fuel pump forced a lot or a little fuel out when you turn the key to the II position. It does sound like your problem is on the fuel side.

 

I didn't even wanna try turning the key to the II position when I saw gas leaking out on it's own after loosening the bolt...wasn't spraying or anything, but was more than a little dribble, for sure. Should I try turning the key to the II position with the bolt loosened and covered with a rag to see if it sprays?

 

As long as the engine is cold and you do no other testing until all the fuel evaporates, then I would give it a shot.