97 Accord ABS Light stays on. Uploaded pic, and video of Diagnostic Code
#1
97 Accord ABS Light stays on. Uploaded pic, and video of Diagnostic Code
I need some help working on my Father in Laws 1997 Accord EX Wagon. Just recently the ABS light stays on and wont go off. Ive tried to figure it out, checked fluids, fuses. Read the manual on codes, and just cant figure it out. I jumped the connector that I think is the right one. (See Pic), and it seems to give a code, but Im not sure exactly what code it is displaying. So I decided to take a quick video of it and link it so maybe you guys can figure out what code it is, and what to check/ fix based on the code. If Im reading it right its a code #1 which could be a lot of things according to the manual. Any help would be appreciated as always, trying to save him some money. Thanks Guys
Video
Video
Last edited by Custnam; 10-28-2012 at 10:02 AM.
#2
The long light flash is test of bulb. The short flash is code 1, which is ABS pump motor over-run. If you have the manual you will see there are 8 possibilities for this fault. There is a diagnostic flow chart to resolve which of the 8 possibilities is your problem.
A number of the faults are internal plumbing issues w/ the ABS modulator and can't be repaired. Many of these fault paths result in modulator replacement. Check ebay and car-part.com for used units. I've purchased these units as cheap as $25 from local yards.
Modulator is easy to replace but purchase a 10mm flare tubing wrench to loosen the tubing nuts. They are very tight and open-end 10mm will generally round them off. You will need to bleed brakes after replacing the modulator.
good luck
A number of the faults are internal plumbing issues w/ the ABS modulator and can't be repaired. Many of these fault paths result in modulator replacement. Check ebay and car-part.com for used units. I've purchased these units as cheap as $25 from local yards.
Modulator is easy to replace but purchase a 10mm flare tubing wrench to loosen the tubing nuts. They are very tight and open-end 10mm will generally round them off. You will need to bleed brakes after replacing the modulator.
good luck
#3
Looks like a code one with no subcode.....so that comes to a "abs pump motor over-run"
If you don't have a manual on where to go next, I think/pretty sure there is a write up in the DIY section for this....the first thing I would do is bleed the ABS unit and be sure the fluid level is ok in the ABS unit.
EDIT: and TX posted as I was typing
If you don't have a manual on where to go next, I think/pretty sure there is a write up in the DIY section for this....the first thing I would do is bleed the ABS unit and be sure the fluid level is ok in the ABS unit.
EDIT: and TX posted as I was typing
Last edited by poorman212; 10-28-2012 at 10:15 AM.
#4
After doing some more reading on page 759 of the manual it describes exactly what it is doing and says its either leaking, or the modulator is bad. If it is the modulator is that easy to get to and replace? Thanks again.
#5
Yes, it's an easy job, but you need the 10mm flare tubing wrench. Rest is obvious. It should only take about 30 mins to replace the modulator. Careful w/ the plastic tube support guides. They are fragile after this many years of heat and oxidation.
good luck
good luck
#6
Sorry for the stupid question, but where is this located? Do I need the car jacked? Or is it accessible from under the hood? Thanks
#8
Yea I reset the code, and they topped up the ABS reservoir. Light stays off or about 30 seconds and they I can hear a click from the relay under the glove box and the light comes on. Havent tried the bleed yet.