oil change
#1
05-16-2008, 12:57 PM
oil change
hey im gonna do my own oil change this weekend cuz im tired of ppl slamming my CF hod down.
I have a 99 accord ex V6 and i was wondering what all would i need? and what is the best quality of oil to use? it has 156,000 miles on it now so i need the best quality oil. lol
thanks.
I have a 99 accord ex V6 and i was wondering what all would i need? and what is the best quality of oil to use? it has 156,000 miles on it now so i need the best quality oil. lol
thanks.
#2
05-16-2008, 01:49 PM
RE: oil change
Personally, I use:
- Standard Fram oil filter
- Mobil1 5000 (but change 3000-4000 mi) - 5qts should do it. If you consume oil regularly, then getting an extra qt wouldn't hurt, plus you can top off if needed (but you shouldn't need to).
- Oil-catch pan I bought at WalMart (for like 2 or 3 bucks)
If you do not regularly work on your car, I suggest the following:
- A funnel for pouring the oil.
- Latex gloves to keep the hands clean
- A crap-towel or shirt to sop up the mess you are guaranteed to make (i ALWAYS make a mess! lol).
You'll need a socket set and a ratchet as you can imagine. I think mine was a 17mm when I did mine last (it's been a few weeks so I can't entirely remember).
If you've been taking it places to get oil changed there's a good chance they've overtightened everything, so you MIGHT need a filter wrench (which i hate), and most people suggest replacing the crush washer on your drain plug, but I've never even seen one on an accord to begin with (on the 7 that i've changed oil on in the past).
It's a fairly simple job:
- Make sure car is cool.. No one likes getting burned by oil.
- Remote Oil Cap from valve cover
- Remove drain plug from oil pan - this is where I always make a mess... Be sure to actually CATCH the oil in your pan, and also realize that the pressure will drop immensely after 30-45 seconds causing it to drip STRAIGHT down instead of at the originating angle it shoots out at... This is the part I always forget and it ends up dripping on the edge or completely missing it and hitting the floor.. ugh..
- Remove oil filter, place upside down in catcher-pan, or some have special nipples to hold filters so they drain.
- Let sit
- Some people will argue this step, but I've always done it, and always will --- Turn engine over for a few cranks, not long at all really, just enough to get some of the stuff in the pistons and cylinders out.
- Close drain plug
- Install new oil filter - be sure to create a seal by using a small bit of oil (new or old, doesn' tmatter) along the rubber gasket on the new filter.
- Fill, crank engine, and check level; add more if required.
- Standard Fram oil filter
- Mobil1 5000 (but change 3000-4000 mi) - 5qts should do it. If you consume oil regularly, then getting an extra qt wouldn't hurt, plus you can top off if needed (but you shouldn't need to).
- Oil-catch pan I bought at WalMart (for like 2 or 3 bucks)
If you do not regularly work on your car, I suggest the following:
- A funnel for pouring the oil.
- Latex gloves to keep the hands clean
- A crap-towel or shirt to sop up the mess you are guaranteed to make (i ALWAYS make a mess! lol).
You'll need a socket set and a ratchet as you can imagine. I think mine was a 17mm when I did mine last (it's been a few weeks so I can't entirely remember).
If you've been taking it places to get oil changed there's a good chance they've overtightened everything, so you MIGHT need a filter wrench (which i hate), and most people suggest replacing the crush washer on your drain plug, but I've never even seen one on an accord to begin with (on the 7 that i've changed oil on in the past).
It's a fairly simple job:
- Make sure car is cool.. No one likes getting burned by oil.
- Remote Oil Cap from valve cover
- Remove drain plug from oil pan - this is where I always make a mess... Be sure to actually CATCH the oil in your pan, and also realize that the pressure will drop immensely after 30-45 seconds causing it to drip STRAIGHT down instead of at the originating angle it shoots out at... This is the part I always forget and it ends up dripping on the edge or completely missing it and hitting the floor.. ugh..
- Remove oil filter, place upside down in catcher-pan, or some have special nipples to hold filters so they drain.
- Let sit
- Some people will argue this step, but I've always done it, and always will --- Turn engine over for a few cranks, not long at all really, just enough to get some of the stuff in the pistons and cylinders out.
- Close drain plug
- Install new oil filter - be sure to create a seal by using a small bit of oil (new or old, doesn' tmatter) along the rubber gasket on the new filter.
- Fill, crank engine, and check level; add more if required.
#3
05-16-2008, 01:58 PM
RE: oil change
1/2" or a 3/8" rachet
12" / 14" / 17" socket depending on your bolt size thats on the oil pan
tool to remove the oil filter - get a good one from a local autoparts store
need ramps (you can get a set from walmart around $20) or jack and jack stands.
Oil drain pan
Need a new oil filter
Need4 to 5quartsof oil
Some rags to wipe off oil that gets on your hand
1.Warm up the car.
2. Get the car up on ramp or jack stand
3. make sure that the car is warm.
4. turn the car off
5. open the oil cap from the engine.
6. place the oil drain pan underneath the oil pan
7. remove the oil drain bolt from the oil pan
8. let the oil drain from the pan
9. replace the bolt on the oil pan
10. move the drain pan underneath the oil filter.
11. remove the oil filter.
12. install the new oil filter. Remember to place some oil around the lip of the new oil filter
13. pour new oil
14. check the level using the dip stick
15. drain the oil drain pan into a container and drop it off to a used oil receving facility
now you are all done.
12" / 14" / 17" socket depending on your bolt size thats on the oil pan
tool to remove the oil filter - get a good one from a local autoparts store
need ramps (you can get a set from walmart around $20) or jack and jack stands.
Oil drain pan
Need a new oil filter
Need4 to 5quartsof oil
Some rags to wipe off oil that gets on your hand
1.Warm up the car.
2. Get the car up on ramp or jack stand
3. make sure that the car is warm.
4. turn the car off
5. open the oil cap from the engine.
6. place the oil drain pan underneath the oil pan
7. remove the oil drain bolt from the oil pan
8. let the oil drain from the pan
9. replace the bolt on the oil pan
10. move the drain pan underneath the oil filter.
11. remove the oil filter.
12. install the new oil filter. Remember to place some oil around the lip of the new oil filter
13. pour new oil
14. check the level using the dip stick
15. drain the oil drain pan into a container and drop it off to a used oil receving facility
now you are all done.
#4
05-16-2008, 01:59 PM
Been Around A Long Time Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In The Desert ( Sahara ? )
Posts: 4,754
RE: oil change
ORIGINAL: HondaPinoy
hey im gonna do my own oil change this weekend cuz im tired of ppl slamming my CF hod down.
I have a 99 accord ex V6 and i was wondering what all would i need? and what is the best quality of oil to use? it has 156,000 miles on it now so i need the best quality oil. lol
thanks.
hey im gonna do my own oil change this weekend cuz im tired of ppl slamming my CF hod down.
I have a 99 accord ex V6 and i was wondering what all would i need? and what is the best quality of oil to use? it has 156,000 miles on it now so i need the best quality oil. lol
thanks.
looking in our DIY section can save time and space,,, there is a write up there ...( How to ... oil change )
Thanks klrspz ... for giving him all the details
#5
05-16-2008, 02:02 PM
RE: oil change
ORIGINAL: klrspz
Personally, I use:
- Standard Fram oil filter
- Mobil1 5000 (but change 3000-4000 mi) - 5qts should do it. If you consume oil regularly, then getting an extra qt wouldn't hurt, plus you can top off if needed (but you shouldn't need to).
- Oil-catch pan I bought at WalMart (for like 2 or 3 bucks)
If you do not regularly work on your car, I suggest the following:
- A funnel for pouring the oil.
- Latex gloves to keep the hands clean
- A crap-towel or shirt to sop up the mess you are guaranteed to make (i ALWAYS make a mess! lol).
You'll need a socket set and a ratchet as you can imagine. I think mine was a 17mm when I did mine last (it's been a few weeks so I can't entirely remember).
If you've been taking it places to get oil changed there's a good chance they've overtightened everything, so you MIGHT need a filter wrench (which i hate), and most people suggest replacing the crush washer on your drain plug, but I've never even seen one on an accord to begin with (on the 7 that i've changed oil on in the past).
It's a fairly simple job:
- Make sure car is cool.. No one likes getting burned by oil.
- Remote Oil Cap from valve cover
- Remove drain plug from oil pan - this is where I always make a mess... Be sure to actually CATCH the oil in your pan, and also realize that the pressure will drop immensely after 30-45 seconds causing it to drip STRAIGHT down instead of at the originating angle it shoots out at... This is the part I always forget and it ends up dripping on the edge or completely missing it and hitting the floor.. ugh..
- Remove oil filter, place upside down in catcher-pan, or some have special nipples to hold filters so they drain.
- Let sit
- Some people will argue this step, but I've always done it, and always will --- Turn engine over for a few cranks, not long at all really, just enough to get some of the stuff in the pistons and cylinders out.
- Close drain plug
- Install new oil filter - be sure to create a seal by using a small bit of oil (new or old, doesn' tmatter) along the rubber gasket on the new filter.
- Fill, crank engine, and check level; add more if required.
Personally, I use:
- Standard Fram oil filter
- Mobil1 5000 (but change 3000-4000 mi) - 5qts should do it. If you consume oil regularly, then getting an extra qt wouldn't hurt, plus you can top off if needed (but you shouldn't need to).
- Oil-catch pan I bought at WalMart (for like 2 or 3 bucks)
If you do not regularly work on your car, I suggest the following:
- A funnel for pouring the oil.
- Latex gloves to keep the hands clean
- A crap-towel or shirt to sop up the mess you are guaranteed to make (i ALWAYS make a mess! lol).
You'll need a socket set and a ratchet as you can imagine. I think mine was a 17mm when I did mine last (it's been a few weeks so I can't entirely remember).
If you've been taking it places to get oil changed there's a good chance they've overtightened everything, so you MIGHT need a filter wrench (which i hate), and most people suggest replacing the crush washer on your drain plug, but I've never even seen one on an accord to begin with (on the 7 that i've changed oil on in the past).
It's a fairly simple job:
- Make sure car is cool.. No one likes getting burned by oil.
- Remote Oil Cap from valve cover
- Remove drain plug from oil pan - this is where I always make a mess... Be sure to actually CATCH the oil in your pan, and also realize that the pressure will drop immensely after 30-45 seconds causing it to drip STRAIGHT down instead of at the originating angle it shoots out at... This is the part I always forget and it ends up dripping on the edge or completely missing it and hitting the floor.. ugh..
- Remove oil filter, place upside down in catcher-pan, or some have special nipples to hold filters so they drain.
- Let sit
- Some people will argue this step, but I've always done it, and always will --- Turn engine over for a few cranks, not long at all really, just enough to get some of the stuff in the pistons and cylinders out.
- Close drain plug
- Install new oil filter - be sure to create a seal by using a small bit of oil (new or old, doesn' tmatter) along the rubber gasket on the new filter.
- Fill, crank engine, and check level; add more if required.
You don't want to crank the engine with no oil in it. It's accident waiting to happen.
Don't use a farm oil filter, its crap made from cardboard.
#6
05-16-2008, 02:16 PM
RE: oil change
It's really all about opinions on oil quality. On both of my vehicles I use Valvoline MaxLife Syn Blend (I use 10w30 since I live in a hot climate). I use purolator filters and I change the oil every 5k miles or 4 months, whichever comes first. Be sure to get the crush washers for the drain plug from a dealership ($0.50 each). If you don't replace the washer, oil will leak from the drain plug.
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