I just bought a 97 Honda Accord 4 cylinder non-vtec, and it drives, doesn't shut off on me, but does Idle kinda high, from 1,000 to 1,500 rpm's. Now I can pretty much drive it all day and its fine, but anytime I need to go faster, at 3,000 rpm's, it acts like it has a governor on it, until I let it go back under 3k rpm's.. already checked the MAP sensor, and no fix. my cousins think its the dizzy, but im just tired of the guessing game. Has anyone had similar issues, that could tell me where to look..? I have a few codes also from autozone if this helps.

1- P0118
2- P0122
3- P0335

and there was one more, I lost the code, but it was for a speed sensor

the guy at autozone gave me a list of the parts for all the sensors that the codes were giving off..

Crankshaft Position sensor
Air Charge Temp snesor
Throttle Position sensor
Vehicle Speed sensor
and the map sensor, but this has been tested with a working map sensor..

Any ideas? and also I am very new to Honda's..

 

P0118 - Engine coolant temperature circuit. High input.
P0122 - Throttle position sensor circuit, low input
P0335 - Crankshaft position sensor, low input.

Those sensors are not in one place, so I would not assume a distributor problem.

I would pull the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute. This will erase the codes in the PCM. Then drive the car around until the check engine light turns on. Then stop by a parts store and have them scan for codes. Write down all of the codes, then we can help you troubleshoot. Do you have a volt meter?

 

check the oil. I had a 2001 accord 4 cyl vtec 5spd mt and when it was low on oil the CEL came on and wouldn't let me go past 3,000 rpms. Infact it would jerk like it was red-lining. I called around until I got home, popped my hood, checked the oil, it was ow. Added 1.5-2qts and it was fine. just trying to help. it fixed my 3,000 rpm problem, hope it fixes yours.

 

I dont have a volt meter.. but ill try the fuse thing to reset it. also, I think this motor has like over 200,000 miles.. is it even worth messing with? can I get it up to reliable standards again, or should I just swap? Its not a racing car, just a daily driver, And im about to get an oil change tomorrow, so we will see if that fixes it.

 

ok welll.. I reset the codes and went back to autozone and got only 2 codes this time,

P0118
P0335

Could a bad Crank Position sensor not let me go above 3000 rpms? and also, my car idles kinda high, but it seems like my pedal is sticking or something, if I put my foot under the pedal and pull, I can get it kinda normal, but I shouldnt have to do that everything..

 

Yes, the codes are keeping the car in "limp mode".

You could try cleaning the TB, both sides of the butterfly and the edges of the TB where the butteryfly "seals" off.

Without a volt meter testing the Crank sensor is going to be hard?????

 

Hey, just fixed the same problem on my 1996 non vtec accord, I was following everyone else's reply's to this and it ended up being the crank sensor, replaced the distributor in the process of trying to fix it. My problem happened right after doing a water pump and timing belt, not sure if we hit it or if it was just coincidence, anyway, problem fixed, and it was throwing a crank sensor code. Later guys and I hope I helped someone out.

 

on someone's behalf, thanks!
stick around.