I just bought a 97 Accord with 5 speed, and drove it home. The next day it wouldn't start. The PO said he thought the pump died, and knocked 200 bucks off the price of the car. But it started up and ran, so I drove it home. It ran and drove beautifully, but now it won't run. It coughed a few times when I shot some starting fluid in the intake tract, but not much more happened. The pump isn't running while trying to start either (can't hear it hum).

I spent some time doing a search, but couldn't find my symptoms. Everyone else seemed to have no power to the pump, main relay bad, or a bad ECU. Not sure if the pump is kaput, or frozen up, as the car was being driven until it went up for sale about a month before I bought it.

I have checked for power at the plug in the trunk, and I've got power there when trying to start (helper pushing the clutch in while turning the engine over), so that should eliminate the main relay (which you can hear click after a few seconds), and maybe the ECU (since it runs the relay). I've got a new Denso pump here, but I'd like to make sure it's the pump before I go pulling the plastic cover and dropping the tank.
Any thoughts, or am I heading down the wrong road thinking the pump is bad, when in reality it's something else? Thank for any help you can offer.

 

Did you get the engine to run at all when spraying starter fluid?

 

No. It coughed, sputtered and then did nothing. I was starting to pull the plastic shield off yesterday, so I could change the pump, when I decided to see/try the pump 1 more time. I had it quiet enough that I was actually able to hear the pump run.

So, I'm starting to think it might be something else, but what?? Coil? Ignitor? ECU?

It almost acts like it's not getting any spark, or a weak spark. But, I'm not sure it's ignition related. I do have tune up parts on order, but with this year and model (a 97 LX with a 2.2L) I've found that Honda used multiple suppliers, which throws a monkey wrench into getting the right parts. Just dealing with the cap and rotor I've found I ordered up the wrong parts, as they list a Hitachi and a TEC coil, and then 2 different distributors for the 2 different coils. WTF?? And each gets it's own cap and rotor combo.

But, I'm thinking about getting a fuel pressure tester, just to see what the pressure actually is, as I want to eliminate that as a possible problem. Low pressure can also cause a starting problem.

 

You can test for spark buy connecting a spark tester pretty easily on your car. An old spark plug will work if you ground the threads of the plug and pull a spark plug wire.

If you have no spark, you will have to keep diagnosing to identify the problem.

 

Yeah, I'm going to spend some more time with it, as I want to double check everything before I go ordering up more parts. I just can't understand why it ran good the day I drove it home, and then the next day it won't run at all.

 

Thought I'd give everyone an update. I did end up replacing the fuel pump. No start. Changed the cap, rotor, wires and plugs, along with the coil. No start. Changed a very worn out timing belt and balance shaft belt (thinking it might have jumped a tooth, it didn't). No start.
At this point, I'm still waiting on my fuel testing adapter (ordered it a week ago, as the tester from the Zone, and O'Rielly's didn't have what I needed in it for testing), so I can check the fuel pressure regulator and make sure the pressure is within spec. I've got a complete distributor on order too, as the ICM costs over half of what the distributor costs, and the 1 I have has an oil leak at the head (can't just buy the damn "O" ring). I also have a used ECU on order, as I'm running out of ideas, and others have had similar issues with the ECU being the problem.

Last night while searching the forums, I found a link to be able to check for any codes from the ECU. Later today I'm going to see about running them, and see if anything pops up. Like I said above, I'm running out of ideas as to why it won't run. I mean the check engine light comes on for 2-3 seconds. I hear the relay kick on, then off. I hear the pump run for those same 2-3 seconds then shut off. Right now the only thing I can't really check for is spark, as I have to hold the clutch pedal down, while trying to start (no helper, and working by myself), and can't see the spark that well from a distance.
Any ideas I'm missing??

 

Kind of a mini update. Finally got a helper to help me out with checking for spark. That I have. I also performed the Main Relay tests, and it passed. Jumping the test port reveled no codes (just the cel light staying on). I found that I do have power to the ECU, and the main relay (can here it click twice, and the pump run between clicks). Right now, this is sort of pointing to the ECU being the problem. But, it also cycles with the main relay. I've basically run out of daylight, so I'll do some more tests Saturday afternoon, and report the findings I get. But right now, I don't have a clue what else to check. Any ideas?? Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

Yes, today I did. I replaced the ECU with a good tested used 1, and it fired off, only to shut off. I moved it aside, and had a couple of beers while I thought things thru. I then pulled the hose off the brake booster, and shot a 10 second blast of satan fluid into the hose, and it fired right off until it burned that stuff off. I repeated this, trying to verify that it would run on satan fluid. I even added a length of hose, so I could blast more in, as it was running. It ran as long as I fed it. Is this a symptom of a clogged fuel filter? I replaced the pump last week with a new Denso pump.

Or is this a bad ignition switch that isn't allowing the pump to run with it in the run position? How do I check that?

Or does the main relay keep the pump running after it's started? Is there a way to jump either the switch, or the main relay to keep the pump on, while the engine is running?

I'm only asking, as I can't hear the pump run while the engine is running. I should mention that I'm waiting on the fuel pressure adapter nut for the 96-97 only Accord, so I can test for pressure. It should be here by the weekend (coming via very slow snail mail, as I ordered it up last week).
At this point, I'm sure it's a fuel problem, as the electrics have tested good, and it runs on satan fluid. Should I back trace the power to the pump, and see if I've got power to it while the engine is running?
Any HELP you can offer is welcome, as I need to get this car up and running.

 

You can test the fuel pressure when you get your tester.

The other item is the fuel injectors may not be firing. Each injector gets 12V with the key in the II position at all times on one of the two wires at each plug. The wire color that gets 12V is the same on each injector (red or red/blk, IIRC). The other wire is grounded by the PCM to open the fuel injector. You can connect a noid light on the connector and verify it flashes when you try to start the car.

 

I don't have a noid light, so I guess I'm screwed on that. I did however check for voltage with my VOM on #4 injector over the weekend, and I was getting 12 volts to it while cranking (I had back probed in the injector plug). But, that was with the original ECU. I haven't tried that with the new one. Maybe I should.

Do you think I should back probe the fuel pump connector to verify that it's running while I'm cranking (after the cel light turns off)? I'm wondering if it's actually running is why I ask. Does the ECU control the pump while the engine is running? Or is that the main relay's function?
Needless to say I'm a little confused on how it all works, as I'm more familiar with GM products, where they use an oil pressure switch to run the pump (thru a relay). On those, 1 side of the switch is n.c. (to run the pump when the key is 1st turned on) while the other side is n.o. closes on a rise of pressure, and keeps the pump running while both cranking, and while the engine is running. Which seems like a more simpler approach.
Sorry about all the questions, but I'm trying to learn what's going on. I'm also trying to cover my bases with this too, as I do have another Accord here (my wife's 2000), and I know some of the same systems are used. Thanks again for your help.