I am leaning towards something with injectors. Or maybe a camshaft sensor is bad, if you have one.

The fact that it won't start or run says something main. If an injector was clogged, usually it takes time and one at a time. Or say sparkplugs don't go bad all at once. usually one goes bad then more ( therefore rough running).

I would try checking the camshaft sensor first. Or something that sends a signal to the injectors, Or something with fuel pressure.

On some cars, there is a valve on the fuel rail similar to a tire valve.
Press on the pin and see if fuel sprays out with the key on, but not with the engine running. If it sprays, then the pump is ok and the fuel filter is ok ( not always, but at least you know fuel is getting to the engine.)

If you have spark and you are getting fuel, then my first thing to look at is camshaft sensor, or something that sends a signal to the injectors. Its VERY unlikely the injectors are bad since they don't all go out at the same time.

 

I didn't see a cam sensor when I had the valve cover off (to do the timing belt), but there are 2 sensors at the crankshaft pulley. I don't know if there's a sensor inside the distributor either, since this is using the TEC distributor and coil set up (non-vtec engine). Like I said earlier, I was getting 12 volts to #4 injector over the weekend when I was testing some of the components.

No valve on the fuel rail with this model either. That's why I'm waiting on the adapter nut for the end of the fuel rail, so I can test the fuel pressure. The Zone, nor O'Reilly's fuel tester kit have that speacial nut in them, so they're basically useless. It's also part of the reason it seems like I'm dragging my feet, as it seems like every step forward is accompanied by 2 steps backward. Well, that and I'm not really familiar with the system. I've been using the hell out of the search function though, and it's helped get me this far. But I still have a bunch to learn. Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

I checked for "Camshaft sensor" and there is one IF YOU have a 6 cyl. (not for 4 cyl).
Is your car 4 or 6 ?

I still think it is fuel related because if you can spray starter fluid and it runs for a few seconds until it runs out, then your spark should be OK.

 

It's a 2.2L non v-tec 4 cylinder 5 speed car. I mentioned that back on page 1 of this thread. I've been trying to keep track of everything that was done, or found too.

Yes, I'm pretty sure it's fuel related, as spraying the carb cleaner thru the longer hose allowed me to be able to rev the engine up to about 4 grand at 1 point, as I was hoping the injectors would start injecting. This whole deal started the day after I bought it, and drove it home. But it also kept running as long as I kept spraying. That's why I asked above where the pump gets power after the engine is started (after the cel light turns off)? Because I can't hear the pump run while the engine is running. Hell I can just barely hear the pump run with the car off (it's really quiet). I thought about adding a test probe to the pump connector, and see if that would tell me if it's dropping out or not.

 

The main relay is really two relays (that is why you hear two clicks). I'll just talk about the part of the main relay that powers the fuel pump. The relay has the high amp power side that acts like an on/off switch. The control side is the signal to turn on/off the switch. The ECU sends ground to the main relay, and the relay sends power to the fuel pump.

Since you are not getting any codes, I don't believe this is a sensor problem.

For testing, the fuel pressure test will help. If you want to test for power, there is an electrical connection in the access panel in the back of your trunk near the back seat. There should be a 3-pin connector with one of the wires being yellow (or maybe yellow/black). That wire should get 12V when the relay turns on. Use a bare metal bolt as your ground on your volt meter.

I'd suggest unplugging each injector and verifying each injector has 12V to body ground. There are some other electrical tests you can try, but I'm hesitant to suggest testing the computer (ground) side of the circuit, unless you know what you are doing. You can accidentally send 12V directly to the engine computer and cause damage.

 

Thanks for the explaination on how the main relay works the pump side. I just wasn't sure what controlled it on the fuel pressure side. I've had it out and bench tested (it's good).

Yeah, I've had the 3 pin connector apart, as I've had the tank out last week.
I'll try back probing the injectors for 12 volts while I wait on the adapter nut so I can test for fuel pressure. I'm not ready to back prode the ECU side to see if there's a break in any of the injector ground wires. Those ECU's are finicky enough, without trying to introduce another problem.

 

Didn't get to work on the 97 Accord yesterday, as the wife's 2000 Accord needed some service. Got the EGR valve swapped out (along with cleaning the ports), and replacing the front rotors (old ones were getting pretty thin), and knocking both rear drums off, so I could inspect the the drums (look good with no grooves worn into them) and brake shoes (still have a nice 1/8th inch of pad still on them). I also rotated the tires, as I've been wanting to do that since it's last oil change.
I did however get my fuel tester nut from Honda, but it looks like I'm going to have to make an adapter for it, as it looks like it uses basically a large "quick disconnect" on it, and I don't have anything that large. I think I've got something out in the shop/garage to do it, just have to look.
In the mean time my daily beater 92 Geo Prizm needs it's rear bumper cover reattached (damn rust is spreading on it), so I might not get to the Accord until friday. If not, I've got the weekend to figure out what's going on. Hope to report something positive very soon.

 

Well, I didn't get to spend as much time as I would have liked on it this weekend, but I think I might have found my problem. I've found I do have fuel pressure (it's 44-46 psi after 2 clicks, and 36-38 psi while cranking/running on satan fluid), so that's not it. But, it did get me to think about what's going on, and something is supposed to trigger the injectors...It's the CKP/TDC, as I'm not getting any resistance thru either plug (set of sensors). I went thru the different things that were listed in the FSM, and that was the last thing I checked. Those cycle the injectors. It runs on satan fluid, because that "fuel" is mixed into the air stream by being fed into the plenum. It fires up, and will run, due to having spark, even though it's not really "controlled", since the sensors aren't doing their job. I just got 1 on order, so it'll be a few days before it gets here, so I'll probably take part of the engine apart again, so it'll be ready for installation (hardest part is getting the damn timing covers off). I'll let everyone know what my result is once I get the part and install it. If that doesn't fix it, then I really don't know what's wrong with it, since I drove it home and it ran fine that day.

 

Well, the part came in, I installed it, and still NO START!!! I just can't catch a break on this car. I'm lost now, and don't know what else to do, since that was the last thing to check according to the FSM.
I've replaced the following items; Fuel pump, ECU, timing belt and balance shaft belt, distributor, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs (NGK), CKP/TDC sensors. The main relay was pulled and bench tested good, as did the injector resistors.
I even tried the old ECU, still nothing.
What I do know, is that I've got fuel pressure, and I've got spark. What I don't have is the injectors firing, and I doubt all 4 injectors are dead.
I'm about ready to part this car out, as it just doesn't want to run again. Is there anyone who is smarter than I am that can tell me WTF is wrong, or what I'm missing to be able to get this thing going again?? I really need some help. Thanks.

 

Your post on 4/24 is vague. You need to troubleshoot the injector circuit and figure out if you are missing 12v to each injector, or your ECU is not providing the ground signal. How did you test each of these?