I tested the CKP/TDC sensors using an ohm meter as described in the FSM. I had 0 ohms on 1 circuit, and less than 1800 on the other. According to the FSM, an ohm reading less than 1845 to 2450 means replacement (target reading is supposed to be 1845 to 2450). I tested the new ones out of the box, and they were both 2380 and 2390 ohms (in range). I guess I need to study the injector circuit some more, and see what it coughs up. This damn car is really starting to **** me off. My wife has suggested sending it to the dealer, and see if they can fix it. I'd really like to get it going. I hate admitting defeat on something like this. I guess I need to buy a noid light too.

 

Well, here's an update of sorts. I spent some with the VOM, the FSM, and the ECU pin outs, as I wanted to verify the ECU was either good or bad. At this point I'm still not 100% certain, as it had been suggested to me that I use a headlight to see IF the injector grounds were actually cycling (so youcould see it light up or not). Well, I didn't get a chance to try that yesterday, but today, I back probed the yel/blk wire (12v+) and the #1 term on the same block (feeds ground to injector#4) with the headlight connected. Instead of seeing the headlight flash, the engine fired right up and ran. I let it run for a while, then pulled the headlight ground (back probed #4 injector out), and it killed the engine. Plugged it back in, and turned the key and it fired back up again. Ran it for a while more, then it kicked on a CEL light (code 16= injectors). So, I thought I'd try something, I moved the ground to #3, and tried it again, and it fired up again, I ran it long enough to actually cycle the cooling fans.
Soo, does this mean the injector resistor assembly is bad? Or is it still a bad ECU? I should mention here, that this was done with the original ECU, and the 2nd ECU I have here was doing the same thing (not triggering the injectors). Also, I had checked the injector assembly, and got a reading of 6.8 ohms on each of the connectors, and the Haynes manual and the FSM says you should be looking for 5 to 7 ohms (still within spec?).

 

You have to be more descriptive of what wires you are probing. What yel/blk 12V wire and where? What wire does #1 term on the same block mean?

Also, I'm not sure what headlight you are using. Are you using a test light?

 

ECM/PCM connector block A (32P). I used terminal #11 (igp1) for 12v+, and terminal #1 (inj4) for ground on my headlight test. I then used terminal #2 (inj3), and that one ran the engine too.

Like I said, I was spending time back probing connections of the ECU, trying to find a fault, and checking the wires to the sensors. The FSM gives you a nice "pin out" of what each terminal does.

 

Do you mean test light, when you are saying headlight?

What did the light do when the car was running?

 

Since you don't know if the injectors are getting pulse and the issue is fuel related I would say just replace the main relay. It can test fine but still be bad. The part is only $30 from rockauto.

Even if it's not the issue this is great maintenance. You can even resolder it as long as it's not burnt.

 

Yes, headlight. In my case I used a plastic rectangular one (3.5 by 5.5 or 6 inches or something like that) I swapped out of my 97 S-10 (installed glass ones for better light on it). When it started up, it didn't glow or anything, but once you rev'd the engine to about 3,000 rpms, it would light up. Strangest thing I ever saw. Didn't know it would do that either.
Is this a case of the resistor assembly being bad? Or am I looking for something else in the injector circuit? I've tested the main relay multiple times now, and it checks out good (even started and ran the car earlier today), so I honestly don't think it's that, unless I'm missing something.

 

You need to convince me better than that, as that was the first thing I checked a month ago, when I was testing for power to the fuel pump. Since then I've checked it out on the bench (using a battery charger for power to cycle the relays), and checked it again while searching for issues with the ECU. Over the weekend, I back probled ALL of the ECU connections, and any power that was needed (switched) came thru the Main Relay like it's supposed to. Like I said, the FSM has a great pin out chart of what you should have powerwise on the out puts of the ECU (see page 11-39 of the fuel section).

 

A headlight will require too much amperage to provide useful information.

I keep asking you to do a simple test. Unplug all four injector electrical connectors. One of the wires to each injector is the same color (red or red/blk). Use your volt meter to verify that wire on each injector has 12V to ground (use a valve cover bolt or the negative battery post as ground).

The other test you need to try is the continuity test to ground on the wire going to each injector that is a different color when trying to crank the vehicle. The setup is almost the same, except you use one meter lead on the different wire and use the same ground. The continuity (aka diode test) will beep when the circuit is closed and be silent when the circuit is open.

 

Well, the headlight might have been a mistake, but it got me to thinking. As it turned out, I didn't have power to the injector resistors (only .25volts). This is no where near enough to run the injectors. So, I used a jumper wire from the battery to feed it power, and it started up and ran nice and smooth. So, with all the jostling around on the wires I've done over the last month must have caused an open in the injector feed circuit, as I had 12 volts to the injector #4 back in late March.

What the headlight was doing, was powering the injectors from the "backside" and had 4.6 ohms of resistance, while the injector resistor pack was providing a semi-ground (the car ran rough, but did run).
Like I said, it might have been a mistake, but it got me thinking, and I found my problem. I've since routed a new wire over to the injector resistor, and have brought power over from the main relay (tied it into the fuel pump circuit), and the car runs great.

I'd like to thank everyone who helped me on this, as I said a page back, I'm trying to learn the system, and get it going again. Best part of all, is that I didn't have to send it to the dealer, and I also don't have any codes. This means it's working like it's supposed to. Now, where's that beer drinking smilie, as I'm definitely having a couple of those.