Hi,

I am doing a timing belt job on my 1999 Accord Dx - 4 cyl, 5 speed. I have the timingand the balance belts off the engine. I also have the water pump off the engine. I wanted to change the seals as well. I need some help in locating the seals. Any help will be appreciated. A procedure for changing these seals will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a lot.







Camshaft Seal
Crankshaft Seal
Oil Pump Seal
Balancer Seal

 

Someone corret me if I am wrong, but I believe the following to be correct:

#24 is the cam seal


#'s 25 & 26 are oil pump seals:


I got the above pics from hondaautomotiveparts.com. I could not locate the other seals you mentioned. You can try to go to that site and see if you can find the seals. You have to input your year, model, trans, etc. Then you have to select which component you want to view.

Sorry i couldn't be of more help. Hopefully a tech or an experienced mechanic such as jimblake or Tony1Mcan get on here and show you what you are looking for.

 

Sounds like you are in some deep deep water.....A t-belt job on a1990thru 2002 4cylinderAccord , especiallythe first one you do, is not good idea for a novice because of the chances of getting the balance shaft out-of-time, not to mention the cam and crank out a tooth or two when installing and tensioning the t-belt and balance belt together.

Anyway, the camshaft seal is behind the top gear (the camshaft gear) and is secured on the camshaft with a right-hand threaded12mm hex head bolt. It is best to use a special tool to install the new seal (because it is easy to roll the inner lip of the new seal while installing. You can use a 32mm socket to push the seal in, but you better know what you are doing....the feel of using the socket instead of the special tool to install the camshaftsealnormally takesa degree ofexperience.

The balance shaft seal is the forward most gear on the engine and it is just above the crankshaft gear. It also is secured with a right-handed 12mm bolt. Once you install a new balance shaft seal, you need to install a balance shaft seal retainer. You can get this from any Honda dealer. The retainer is not originally on the engine block from the manufacturer.

At our shop, Accurate Automotive, we rarely replace the crank seal...This seal rarely leaks or gives any problems unless the engine has over 250k miles and is over 15 years old.

Again, if you have never performed this procedure and you use and depend on this vehicle daily, you do not need to attempt this preocedure using a Honda forum and a service manual.

It will be very very very difficult for you to get this job done correctly without professional assistence watching you perform this over your shoulder.

Sincerely,
Ed Brian
Accurate Automotive, Inc.
www.accuratecars.com

 

Look in the lower picture that Jon posted...

#25 is the front main (crankshaft) seal

#26 is the balance-shaft seal (follow the line to it's location)

#7 is the seal for the other balance shaft

#5 is the oil pump assembly; it seals against the front of the block. Maybe #6 is part of that? Do youREALLY want to remove & reseal that??

 

Thanks all.

I think I am going to leave all ofthe seals alone for next time. I am going to try to put everything back andGod Willinggetit toworkon the first try.

As most forms mentioned, the crankshaft bolt is the hardest thing to remove so far. I had to obtain a 3 feet steel pipe and a 20" long socket extension to get that bolt to open.

One more question. Can I use a brake cleaner to clean off the pulleys for the balance shaft and timing belt before I assemble eveything back. I got some coolant on it when I removed the water pump.

Thanks again

 

Yes, CRC makes an excellent brake cleaner to use....Get the red can if possible, and not the non-clorinated junk (in the green can)

Ed Brian
Accurate Automotive, Inc.
www.accuratecars.com

 

Good post gentlemen with accurate information for the troops..

Thank You all for your good informtion.

WheelBrokerAng [sm=americanasmiley.gif]

 

If its not too late, from a technicians stand point i would replace the crank seal unless its leaking, the cam seal should always be replaced but that crank seal 99% of the time doesnt leak unless its a higher mileage car, and if it does its minimal. PS i hope you bought a balancer seal retainer, unless theres already one on there.. also leave the oil pump seal, if you remove that you will need to realign it through the backside of the block, I suggest leaving it. Another good tip is before you take the belt off, be sure its at TDC, Then mark on the crank pully(the one the t-belt rides on) with a straight edge to the balancer pully and oil pump pully, Just to help make sure everythings all lined up. Be careful those dont move when replacing it, If that oil pump gets even a few teeth off it will definatly cause issues...Good luck!

 

Thanks all your help is greatly appreciated.

Question: Can I use a gasket maker product or something to replace the existing timing belt coverseal? The seal that I am talking about is #2 on the above illustration. This is not the tension adjustment cover. Are these seals available in autoparts store?

Now the update on the timing belt.
I didn't change any seals since this was my first timing belt job.None of the seals were leaking and the existing timing belt water pump all seemed to be in very good shape. The balance shaft belt probably could use a replacement around 20K more miles. The car currently has 130K on it and had been mostly highway driven. The main problem I had was the rear balance shaft. I forgot to lock it and then I had to look back at this form to figure out how to get that back into timing. The mark for that pulley is very small point on the oil pump cover. I had to remove that bolt on back of the engine and turn the pulley couple of times to that mark until the hex key went all the way through and locked the pulley from turing counterclockwise.

I am planning to put the lower timing belt cover back on and then the crank shaft pulley, theoil dip stick,and the old belts and just place the valve cover back without putting bolts on it. Then turning the car on and see if eveything works. If so then I willput the engine mountback and replace the belts, the valve cover gasket and all that stuff. -- Do you think this is a good idea?

Thanks again

 

Wow, that #2 seal is expensive (I just looked). Seems likeweatherstripping glue or some kinda caulking might work, but I don't know???

So did I understand you did NOT replace the balance-shaft belt?? I would've replaced it just because you gotta do the WHOLE JOB over again in 20k miles.

I do NOT think it's a good idea to start the engine without bolting down the valve cover. You'll probably get yourself covered in oil. It takes all of 2 minutes to tighten those bolts.Install the engine mount before starting because you can still do what you need (adjust?) with it in place.

Bolt on the lower timing cover because it can flex & rub on the spinning stuff. OK to leave off the upper timing cover, but I wouldn't actually drive around much without it.