99 Accord EX Dashboard Gauges not working correctly
#1
99 Accord EX Dashboard Gauges not working correctly
Hi,
Two days ago all the dashboard gauges on my 99EX stopped working. I discovered this when I went to start it one morning. We had big snow storm and it had sat undriven for couple of days with super cold nights.(just mentioning this in case the extreme cold weather is a factor.)
Today while driving the odometer came back on along with the routine maintenance light. This happened after I had driven a short time. Then, shortly after the fuel and temp gauges suddenly started working again, and so did the tach and speedometer. Then both the tach and speedometer just got stuck - floated at about the 40 mph mark and stayed there. Tach did the same thing, floating around 3K. Temp, fuel and odometer still working normally. By the time I shut the car off the speedometer and tach had jumped up to 85 mph and 7K or so and they stayed frozen there even after I shut the engine off and removed the key. When I returned to the car the speedometer and tach had returned to zero (discharging capacitor?) I drove home and this time none of the gauges nor the odometer were working and didn't work again for the entire trip home. I guess that would rule out a fuse. Anyone have any ideas of where to look or what is causing this?
Thanks in advance
Two days ago all the dashboard gauges on my 99EX stopped working. I discovered this when I went to start it one morning. We had big snow storm and it had sat undriven for couple of days with super cold nights.(just mentioning this in case the extreme cold weather is a factor.)
Today while driving the odometer came back on along with the routine maintenance light. This happened after I had driven a short time. Then, shortly after the fuel and temp gauges suddenly started working again, and so did the tach and speedometer. Then both the tach and speedometer just got stuck - floated at about the 40 mph mark and stayed there. Tach did the same thing, floating around 3K. Temp, fuel and odometer still working normally. By the time I shut the car off the speedometer and tach had jumped up to 85 mph and 7K or so and they stayed frozen there even after I shut the engine off and removed the key. When I returned to the car the speedometer and tach had returned to zero (discharging capacitor?) I drove home and this time none of the gauges nor the odometer were working and didn't work again for the entire trip home. I guess that would rule out a fuse. Anyone have any ideas of where to look or what is causing this?
Thanks in advance
#2
I'd start with simple stuff. Disconnect the battery and clean all ends of the battery cables with a wire brush or sand paper. Also clean the bolts/washers.
After everything is cleaned up, stop by a parts store and have them test the battery and alternator.
After everything is cleaned up, stop by a parts store and have them test the battery and alternator.
#4
Cold weather can create cracks/breaks in circuit board solder jts. Cold shrinks causing cracks to enlarge and create an open circuit. Some have had luck w/ removing gauge panel, and reworking suspect solder jts.
good luck
good luck
#6
It's not difficult but you need a shop manual to guide you and avoid damaging plastic trim pieces. Check automanualsource.com for an inexpensive ($22) download. Search youtube for videos on 98-02 Accords for additional help.
good luck
good luck
#7
All the solder joints on the motherboard looked fine.
So I'm at a dead end for now. I know a lot of people try replacing the cluster but that is apparently a hit or miss proposition with the added problem of ending up with an odometer reading that's way off. Any other suggestions at this point before taking it to the Honda service center?
So I'm at a dead end for now. I know a lot of people try replacing the cluster but that is apparently a hit or miss proposition with the added problem of ending up with an odometer reading that's way off. Any other suggestions at this point before taking it to the Honda service center?
#8
Start the vehicle, and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. It should be over 13 volts and means the alternator is working.
As for the electrical problem you have with the gauge, figure out which wire is the 12V source for the gauge. Backprobe the wire and see if you are getting constant voltage to the cluster on that wire(s). You could also try a voltage drop test from the fuse to the power wire to the cluster while plugged in.
As for the electrical problem you have with the gauge, figure out which wire is the 12V source for the gauge. Backprobe the wire and see if you are getting constant voltage to the cluster on that wire(s). You could also try a voltage drop test from the fuse to the power wire to the cluster while plugged in.
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naveen_jaina
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01-10-2014 07:10 PM