Desert, I take it a 95 is the same?
Sorry, didn't mean to hi-jack this thread.

 

I had this problem with my 95 accord. I had a leak somewhere and had to constantly fill up the brake fluid reservoir. Check the level and try topping it off if it's low. I was getting a residue on the inside of my front rims which confirmed a leak.

 

yep.....same thing

 

can anyone tell me how to identify the ABS service connector on my '94 wagon? I understand it's under the glove box, but the only open connection I see is an orange one with six pins.

 

It is a blue two-wire connector. It may be connected to the underside of glove box. Someone could have stuffed it out of the way. Pull glove box (easy) ifyou have to.

If you have a leak that wets the sides of the modulator, I have a TSB that identifies 8-9 plugs that need to be reseated to fix the leak. I did this on a 97 Acura CL w/ same modulator last year and it's remained dry and no ABS code. PM an email address and I'll forward.

There is no reason to tolerate a non-working ABS. Used modulators are easily found for < $100 and <$50 sometimes. Check ebay or car-part.com. That's what I did to repair an internally leaking modulator.

good luck

 

so far I believe the modulator and hydraulics are O.K. I just replace the front pads and rotors (the ABS light started coming on 2 mo. ago, unrelated) and was hoping a little cleaning would help. I'll get the code and let you know what it was. thanks

 

how difficult is the labor to do this, did you do it yourself? the Haynes manual states the ABS system is far more complex than you think and should be handled by a professional. however, i like to try and do things myself, so i was wondering.

 

The ABS system is safety critical. If the manual suggested you could work on the system, theymust be sure you/they don't cause a problem that leads to an accident. Their lawyers tell them to write such "don't touch" statements to reduce their legal risk. If you diy, you obviously are risking your own or your family's lifes, so you need to be confident of what you are doing. Thanks to US tort laws, you get this sort of thing in a manual.

That said, removal of the modulator and reseating the plugs is a very simple task and will take perhaps 1 hr. You will need a 10mm flare tubing wrench to remove and install the hydraulic connections. If you try to use a 10mm open end, you will bugger the nuts. Guess how I know[X(].

I've done major surgery on some modulators to attempt to understand them better, but ultimately decided that only external work makes any sense. About all you can do to these modulatorsis reseat the plugs andchange the accumulator oring. I did manage to swap the drive motor from one unit to another, but that's about it. The internals are interesting, but it's unclear what may be wrong if you have an internal leak. A used modulator can be purchased for $75-$100 bucks, which is easier solution.

Your modulator (from pics) appears to be same unit as the 4-cylinder Accords.

good luck