R134a fittings are easily recognizable as they are larger than R12 w/ a blue cap (16-17mm diameter) on the low side fitting, red cap on the high side fitting. Low side fitting should be near the battery and high side is close by.

good luck

 

Sorry guys, i know its very hard to advise a beginner like me. i am asking so many questions as parts here are not available it it takes 10-15 days to get parts bought online.so i want to make sure i have everything before starting work.

ok, i have two caps one faded green another faded gray, both are on passenger side near PS pump(passenger side is left hand side of driver) cant remember but L one is bigger than H one. googling about connector i leared that R12 size is like Tyre valves so i am assuming its R134

Is there any diagram or video for O-ring locations? i haven't started the work yet as waiting for the tools to arrive bought from eBay.this is my only hope of getting parts.

its very hard to get spare parts here, so shaft seal would be impossible to find. i will try to get them. is there any special o-ring size in the whole system? honda dealers charges a lot for o-rings or any parts. for example spark plug seals $60, thermostat gasket $20 , no o-rings are less than $10

 

You should download a manual from Online Manuals post in DIY forum. Use the 94 Accord manual but get the 95 supplements also. Most of info is in 94 manual.

A source for mail order parts such as receiver/drier, shaft seal and orings is ackits.com. They have AC products for accords at reasonable prices. I don't know if ship to Austrailia or not.

Some of the parts you'll need: orings, receiver/drier, oring lube, PAG (double end PAG is recommended), R134a (two 14-oz cans is just right). If you see oily/dirty accumulations or indications from dye on your crimped hose ends, you should replace the hoses.

autoacforum has a FAQ page w/ charging instructions if you plan to DIY the charge.

I overhauled my 94 Ex about 5 yrs back and it's worked well since. I replaced evap (may have had a leak in cooling tubes), cleaned all connections, replaced all orings, new receiver/drier, new compressor shaft seal.

good luck

 

ok, work starts from now on.

received the manifold gauge, vacuum is on the way and would take another week to get hands on it.

could i connect gauge to discharge and find leak at this stage? i need to find the leak and it could be several places. can i do it without vacuum pump?

 

You need a vacuum pump or source of pressure to confirm leak. Finding a leak w/ a vacuum source is difficult (sometimes can be heard). A small amount of R134a w/ dye is usually used to detect leaks (under hood). Leak in evap can be inferred if no other source of leak exists (check very carefully!).

good luck

 

Since the AC doesn't work for a long time and mechanic advised there is a leak, i thought the system is empty, out f my surprise, there is some pressure. i didn't put the gauge but opened service point caps and press the valve with a screw driver a bit, there is still some pressure.

I checked connectivity in AC pressure switch no connectivity.

Clutch is not engaging and the connector is broken from 1p connector red wire. i can manually connect that from 1P red wire came from clutch relay. but beside that there is a 2P connector has red and brown wire (please see attached picture 1). what is that connector for and where to connect that?

also there is a connector near AC pressure switch (refer to picture 2) which is tied to harness but not connected anywhere. what is that connector for?

work done:

• condenser fan relay checked, since the fan runs with radiator fan, i am assuming its OK
• clutch relay has following voltages when i put ignition II
  two wires has battery voltage, i wire is bit less than battery voltage and another hasn't got any voltage.
• AC pressure switch connector has voltage on both the pins, when press AC on switch, one pin voltage is gone

Vacuum pump not arrived yet, in the meantime please advice about those electrical faults.

 

Can you please advise about the electrical connectors (picture attached) in the previous reply. Thanks

 

I'm on the road and don't have access to my shop manuals. You should get wire colors of the wires to the connector and use shop manual to determine the system disconnected. I would guess they are cooling fan connector or if only one wire, may be AC compressor connector.

good luck

 

when you pull a vacuum it should remove EVERYTHING including the refrigerant oil.

OP,

This is how you check for leaks AFTER you wash down the engine and condesor


1. buy a few cans of R134a or the proper refrigerant for your area if outside of usa.
2. charge system by:
a. start car
b. set AC to max
c. add refrigerant to the low side, when the pressure is right the compressor will turn on and you will start to get cold air
d. using a LED flashlight (best contrast ratio), go over every inch of line starting with the condenser and then following the hoses to compressor and then firewall


my guess is that you are going to find a leak at the condenser and then possibly in the following areas
compressor seal or where the lines connect with O-rings. if you got a leaky evaporator core = dash comes out to repair


once you find the leak, turn everything off as you will need to do the following


1. replace defective part along with receiver dryer (a must if the system has a leak)
2. evacuate system using a vacuum pump
3. DO NOT RECHARGE yet. Put the system on a vacuum and see if it will hold it for at least 8 hours, if so, recharge system with proper amount of PAG oil (R134a) or appropriate compressor oil and proper refrigerant (most likely R134a) use the amount of refrigerant and PAG oil specified by Honda, do not use more do not use less.


Enjoy A/C working again

 

Pulling a vacuum on the system will not remove the oil.

You can't easily see a leak unless you add some dye to the system and use a black light. The simplest test is to pull a vacuum and see if the vacuum holds after you make your repairs.