Accord doesn't start but cranks
#1
10-30-2014, 12:52 AM
Accord doesn't start but cranks
Does anyone know what would cause my 1998 Honda Accord V-tec 3.0 J30A1 to crank but no start?
The owner says, the car died on the road. They got it jumpstarted and drove for a few minutes and died again. They push-started it and died again minutes later.
They left it out for 6 months to a year and I decided to begin fixing it. 200k miles. I bought a cheap OBDII reader and got codes saying that there were no connection to TDC Sensor 1 and TDC Sensor 2. Put in a new battery. I put a dry Dipstick to the Spark Plug Wire and had a friend try to crank (poor mans Spark Plug Tester) but there is no spark. I replaced the Distributor and Spark Plugs so far, and still no spark when it cranks. I heard some Accords were recalled back then for faulty Ignition Switches, bought a new one and still, won't start. People tell me it is the CrankShaft Sensor, CamShaft Sensor or Fuel Pump. I need other advice before I do all that work in a J series.
The owner says, the car died on the road. They got it jumpstarted and drove for a few minutes and died again. They push-started it and died again minutes later.
They left it out for 6 months to a year and I decided to begin fixing it. 200k miles. I bought a cheap OBDII reader and got codes saying that there were no connection to TDC Sensor 1 and TDC Sensor 2. Put in a new battery. I put a dry Dipstick to the Spark Plug Wire and had a friend try to crank (poor mans Spark Plug Tester) but there is no spark. I replaced the Distributor and Spark Plugs so far, and still no spark when it cranks. I heard some Accords were recalled back then for faulty Ignition Switches, bought a new one and still, won't start. People tell me it is the CrankShaft Sensor, CamShaft Sensor or Fuel Pump. I need other advice before I do all that work in a J series.
#2
10-30-2014, 07:41 AM
TDC sensor fault would prevent spark from being generated. What specific codes (Pnnnn) were determined? Finding this fault and repairing is first step.
good luck
good luck
#4
10-30-2014, 02:43 PM
Both codes indicate no TDC1 or TDC2 signal received by the PCM. Look for damaged sensor, connector, wiring, or less likely PCM fault.
Easiest way to check is to release connector nearest TDC (1 & 2) and measure resistance across pins 1 - 2 (side by side nearest latch) and 3-4 (side by side below 1-2). Resistance should be 1850-2450 ohms. If resistance is out of spec for either sensor, then sensors are bad and must be replaced.
If they check OK, then a wiring or connector fault must be investigated. Disconnect PCM connector C (31 pin connector see shop manual for location/wire colors/pin positions). Perform same resistance measurements from harness side of connector C. If resistance checks are good again, then PCM has internal fault and must be replaced. If resistance checks fail, then short/open in wiring or intermediate connector must be traced and repaired.
Both sensors showing same DTC suggests damaged wiring or connector, unless connector is simply released (did you separate during work?).
good luck
Easiest way to check is to release connector nearest TDC (1 & 2) and measure resistance across pins 1 - 2 (side by side nearest latch) and 3-4 (side by side below 1-2). Resistance should be 1850-2450 ohms. If resistance is out of spec for either sensor, then sensors are bad and must be replaced.
If they check OK, then a wiring or connector fault must be investigated. Disconnect PCM connector C (31 pin connector see shop manual for location/wire colors/pin positions). Perform same resistance measurements from harness side of connector C. If resistance checks are good again, then PCM has internal fault and must be replaced. If resistance checks fail, then short/open in wiring or intermediate connector must be traced and repaired.
Both sensors showing same DTC suggests damaged wiring or connector, unless connector is simply released (did you separate during work?).
good luck
Last edited by TexasHonda; 10-30-2014 at 02:46 PM.
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