Go Back   Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums > General > General Tech Help
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search

Welcome to the Honda Accord Forum - Honda Accord Enthusiast Forums.
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 07-08-2007, 06:58 PM
TexasHonda's Avatar
Super Moderator : And A Texan
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 7,577
Default Accord Fuel Pump Replacement

I've hada long-running, highly intermittent failure-to-start in my 94EX. It seemed like Main Fuel Relay (sitting in sun all day, hot days) and no fuel pump sound, however a new MFR resulted in same problem. I rigged a tell-tale light to the fuel pump power lead at in the trunk access cover and had the light on the floor of pax seat where I could easily see.

Wouldn't you know the car went several months w/ no problems and tell-tale merrily blazing away. I began to think the problem had "repaired itself", but finally last week I a got a no-start and tell-tale light was ON, indicating power was available to the fuel pump, however fuel pump was not running. I was finally able to get fuel pump to start by hammering the pump w/ repeated applications of power from keyswitch. I ordered a new pump and installed this weekend. I bought an aftermarket fuel pump from an ebay vendor (superpartsinc). More on that below.

I used the 94 Honda Accord shop manual notes and found them OK, but a few key steps are either incorrect or misleading.

1) Remove Fuel Tank
First step is to lift the rear end and securely support on jackstands. You have to crawl under the vehicle rear end to do this job, so no short cuts here. Lift the vehilce as high as possible for best access. This part of the job went per the manual w/ some key departures. The manual states to "disconnect the 2P and 3P connectors" presumably from fuel tank, however this is simply wrong. You disconnect the fuel gauge and fuel pump power from it's harness in the trunk and leave the electrical harness to the fuel tank connected to the tank. It is necessary to separate the harness from the fuel gauge access plate cover (push rubber harness fitting from plate). Push the harness through access hole and on top of the fuel tank. It will come out and stay w/ the tank. Also disconnect the hoses and tubes at their "car side end" rather than their "tank side end". Manual doesn't say and it wasn'tobvious (at least to me). Two straps hold the tank in place and tank may drop down when the back ends of the strapsare released. I used a foot-stool and shim board to allow the back end of the tank to lower. Remove the drain plug and drain excess gas into a storage vessel. I ran the car down to almost empty and still had 2-3 gallons to catch. Don't try this job w/ anything more than 1/8 full unless you want to spend at lot of time draining the tank. Don't expect to catch every drop.

2) Replace Fuel Pump
This is relatively straightforward and follows the manual. Only complication I had was the replacement pump inlet screen interfered with the fuel pump support bracket. Basically, the inlet screen neck was too short. I was able to remove the inlet screen from the old pump and install to my new pump. Pump fit fine other than this one issue. OEM pump may be worth the difference in cost (My cost was $60, while OEM was over $200). Make sure you have a new crush washer for the banjo bolt securing the high pressure fuel connection to the tank. This fitting is inaccessible w/o removing the tank. You don't want to reinstall everything and have a fuel leak at this inaccessible fitting.

3) Reinstall Fuel Tank
No problems here, however the tank is a bit awkward to muscle into position and lift. Footstool or some other support is essential to assist supporting the tank while you reattach the straps. Clean the bolts and lubricate to assist starting and running them up.

4) Restart Engine
Manual says nothing about restarting after fuel pump replacement. I coud hear the pump running but engine would not start. I think the large amount of air in the lines could not be cleared despite the closed circuit fuel supply/return system. I removed the bleed bolt in the fuel rail and turned fuel pump on for a few seconds. A geyser of fuel appeared after about 3-4 seconds of air. I let car air-dry for 30 minutes while I put my tools away. It started immediately later.

I spent about 6 hrs total, including time to run to local auto parts and purchase a crush washer. I would expect an experienced mechanic w/ a lift could do this job in 2-3 hrs.

Honda fuel pumps are very reliable, but if you need to replace it's not a terrible job.

Regards
This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Honda Accord Forum!
__________________
See you down the ROW
1994 Accord EX
2003 Acura MDX
2006 Acura TSX
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-08-2007, 11:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Canada
Posts: 757
Default RE: Accord Fuel Pump Replacement

Good informative post.

I hope I never need it, but it's nice to know it's here.
__________________
Tony
1992 Accord LX, 4AT, 4 dr, no AC, no power anything (sold in June, 2013)
2005 Lexus LS430 (sold in June, 2013)
2010 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS S-AWC, ultra-loaded
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-09-2007, 08:06 AM
Been Around A Long Time Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,357
Default RE: Accord Fuel Pump Replacement

I think you could've saved yourself about 5hrs if you'd just pulled the pump out from the trunk where the cover is.
__________________
Accord Mafia Member #001
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-09-2007, 11:34 AM
JimBlake's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 15,310
Default RE: Accord Fuel Pump Replacement

Quote:
ORIGINAL: BlkCurrantKord

I think you could've saved yourself about 5hrs if you'd just pulled the pump out from the trunk where the cover is.
That's not always possible for all years/models.
__________________
'05 Saab 9x aero (RIP)
2 '07 Civics
'09 Saab 9ss
'10 Saab 9sc
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-09-2007, 12:30 PM
TexasHonda's Avatar
Super Moderator : And A Texan
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 7,577
Default RE: Accord Fuel Pump Replacement

Quote:
ORIGINAL: BlkCurrantKord

I think you could've saved yourself about 5hrs if you'd just pulled the pump out from the trunk where the cover is.
There is a cover to access the fuel gauge assy on pax side of trunk, but no cover for the fuel pump on driver's side. Not sure why as it appears there is plenty of room. Indeed, if there were an access cover you could pull the pump w/o dropping the tank and save 3-4 hrs of my time.

BTW, I underestimated the Honda fuel pump. It is over $350 but includes everything in a complete tank insert assy. I would do the same thing again for $300 difference.

regards
__________________
See you down the ROW
1994 Accord EX
2003 Acura MDX
2006 Acura TSX
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-04-2009, 09:21 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sevierville Tennessee
Posts: 17
Default

Good info TexasHonda. One question if I may. My gas gauge shows plenty of gas in tank but it's running out of gas sooner and sooner with each fill up. I also hear a loud buzzing noise under the rear passenger side seat. The only time the fuel gauge is correct is when I fill the tank.
Is this a fuel pump problem?
__________________
1989 Honda Accord LXi Sedan, A/T, Fuel injected, 2.0
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-23-2013, 01:12 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasHonda View Post
I've hada long-running, highly intermittent failure-to-start in my 94EX. It seemed like Main Fuel Relay (sitting in sun all day, hot days) and no fuel pump sound, however a new MFR resulted in same problem. I rigged a tell-tale light to the fuel pump power lead at in the trunk access cover and had the light on the floor of pax seat where I could easily see.

Wouldn't you know the car went several months w/ no problems and tell-tale merrily blazing away. I began to think the problem had "repaired itself", but finally last week I a got a no-start and tell-tale light was ON, indicating power was available to the fuel pump, however fuel pump was not running. I was finally able to get fuel pump to start by hammering the pump w/ repeated applications of power from keyswitch. I ordered a new pump and installed this weekend. I bought an aftermarket fuel pump from an ebay vendor (superpartsinc). More on that below.

I used the 94 Honda Accord shop manual notes and found them OK, but a few key steps are either incorrect or misleading.

1) Remove Fuel Tank
First step is to lift the rear end and securely support on jackstands. You have to crawl under the vehicle rear end to do this job, so no short cuts here. Lift the vehilce as high as possible for best access. This part of the job went per the manual w/ some key departures. The manual states to "disconnect the 2P and 3P connectors" presumably from fuel tank, however this is simply wrong. You disconnect the fuel gauge and fuel pump power from it's harness in the trunk and leave the electrical harness to the fuel tank connected to the tank. It is necessary to separate the harness from the fuel gauge access plate cover (push rubber harness fitting from plate). Push the harness through access hole and on top of the fuel tank. It will come out and stay w/ the tank. Also disconnect the hoses and tubes at their "car side end" rather than their "tank side end". Manual doesn't say and it wasn'tobvious (at least to me). Two straps hold the tank in place and tank may drop down when the back ends of the strapsare released. I used a foot-stool and shim board to allow the back end of the tank to lower. Remove the drain plug and drain excess gas into a storage vessel. I ran the car down to almost empty and still had 2-3 gallons to catch. Don't try this job w/ anything more than 1/8 full unless you want to spend at lot of time draining the tank. Don't expect to catch every drop.

2) Replace Fuel Pump
This is relatively straightforward and follows the manual. Only complication I had was the replacement pump inlet screen interfered with the fuel pump support bracket. Basically, the inlet screen neck was too short. I was able to remove the inlet screen from the old pump and install to my new pump. Pump fit fine other than this one issue. OEM pump may be worth the difference in cost (My cost was $60, while OEM was over $200). Make sure you have a new crush washer for the banjo bolt securing the high pressure fuel connection to the tank. This fitting is inaccessible w/o removing the tank. You don't want to reinstall everything and have a fuel leak at this inaccessible fitting.

3) Reinstall Fuel Tank
No problems here, however the tank is a bit awkward to muscle into position and lift. Footstool or some other support is essential to assist supporting the tank while you reattach the straps. Clean the bolts and lubricate to assist starting and running them up.

4) Restart Engine
Manual says nothing about restarting after fuel pump replacement. I coud hear the pump running but engine would not start. I think the large amount of air in the lines could not be cleared despite the closed circuit fuel supply/return system. I removed the bleed bolt in the fuel rail and turned fuel pump on for a few seconds. A geyser of fuel appeared after about 3-4 seconds of air. I let car air-dry for 30 minutes while I put my tools away. It started immediately later.

I spent about 6 hrs total, including time to run to local auto parts and purchase a crush washer. I would expect an experienced mechanic w/ a lift could do this job in 2-3 hrs.

Honda fuel pumps are very reliable, but if you need to replace it's not a terrible job.

Regards
Got my access done, so easy. It's right up against where the backseat would be if it weren't folded down. There was a small hole in the body already, it probably use to have a plug in it. I just started cutting from there, plenty of room. I sprayed some pb blaster on the nuts, I'll knock it out this weekend. I'm going to get another pump from a junk yard, it will probably last longer than whatever Autozone will sell me and cost me 15% of the price. Are the pumps for these 94-97 accords all the same?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-24-2013, 12:26 PM
TexasHonda's Avatar
Super Moderator : And A Texan
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 7,577
Default

I'm sure the 94-97 pumps are all the same. Check car-part.com for donors. It will show all years w/ donor pumps.

good luck
__________________
See you down the ROW
1994 Accord EX
2003 Acura MDX
2006 Acura TSX
Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2013, 12:26 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Tags
1992, 2000, 2005, accord, cost, fuel, honda, indicator, install, leak, pump, removal, remove, replace, replacement, tank


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:17 AM.

Internet Brands, Inc.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.


Honda and the Honda marquee are registered trademarks of the American Honda Motor Company, Inc. Neither American Honda Motor Company nor its subsidiaries or affiliates shall bear any responsibility for HondaAccordforum.com content, comments, or advertising. HondaAccordforum.com is not affiliated with American Honda Motor Company in any way. American Honda Motor Company does not sponsor, support, or endorse HondaAccordforum.com in any way. Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended or implied.

Emails Backup