I have a 1991 Accord coupe that has 238k miles on it. /after it warms ups it just dies. No sputtering, nothing just dies. When this happens the tach does not suddenly drop, it slowly drops down to zero unless I put it in neutral and then then tach drops and the dash lights come on. This is my commuter car and I put 110 miles a day on it, round trip.

History - I've owned the car for about a year now. It was my father-in-law's before that and he took very good care of it. About 6 months ago, it occasionally, started dying after it was warm, but only when I slowed to stop at intersections and then wouldn't start again until I let it sit for a couple on minutes. I replaced the fuel pump and filter (in tank), but didn't really help. The little voice in my head said to change the battery which seemed to do the trick, for a couple of months and then same stuff started again. Next I had problems with the starter so it got changed (rebuilt). I don't think it related. Worked fine for awhile but has started acting up again. I could drive to work (55 miles) without problems. If I have to run around at lunch this seems to affect it and the problems back. I finally took it to a local mechanic who test drove it and experienced same problems. He suggested tune up, and injector service. He noted a value cover gasket leak so he performed this services. (I didn't have time to do it myself). Then he couldn't get it started at all. He pulled the distributor and said it was shot. I towed it home and replaced the distributor and it ran well for about 10 miles and then died again. I let it sit for about 3 minutes and it will start and run for about 2 miles and dies again. It seems to have something to do with how warm it gets. When it hits full normal temp, it acts up. Any suggestions?

 

Does the check engine light turn on while driving? I would check for codes anyway. Read the thread called how to get cel codes in the DIY section.

 

No check engine lights until RPM drop to 0 or I put it in neutral and it dies.

 

You should still check for codes.

Are the maintenance items up to date like spark plugs? Did the replacement distributor come with a new ignition control module, distributor cap, and distributor rotor?

Can you get the car to stall out by shaking the key when the car is running?

 

I'll definitely check the codes and yes all new plugs, injector service and new cap rotor and module with the new distributor. Also did an oil change.

 

Main Relay?? Common problem. When they get hot the solder connections expand and lose contact. Remove cover and resolder or just replace. My 2 cents!

 

Thanks Trucknut88. I'll give that a try. I think it will be safer just to replace it.

 

Just a quick follow up. I didn't mention in the original description but the car will crank after it dies, but won't turn over. I watched some videos on youtube about repairing the main relay and they reference the clicking or not starting. I'll work on the relay, but I dont know if that makes a difference, that it cranks.

 

It will still crank just not start......I think!!! I'm getting old.. can't remember for sure!!!

 

I also think its the main relay located above cruise control unit under dash drivers side. It is brown and aprox 2 inches by 1 inch by 1.5 inch has a white 6 or 7 pin connector.