First of all, love the sight guys, a lot of good information!

I have a beautiful 1996 Honda Accord with a little over 150k. It's a 4 door sedan with a manual 5 speed trans and the 2.2 non vtech 4 cylinder.

Recently I was doing a tune up and I put new cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, and fuel filter. I also put new bumper lights, corner lights, front and rear upper strut bars, and a K&N air filter.

I got everything installed except for the fuel filter (the fuel filter I was able to free the top banjo bolt and could not loosen the bottom so I gave up and put it back together. I also cleaned the IAC and the EGR ports. When I put it all back together it would not idle. I tried relearning the ECM by pulling the battery, I double checked all the seals and vaccuum lines on the fuel rail and on the EGR system. I put all the old parts on with no luck with the exception of the rotor cause that broke. Just to double check the rotor I bought another with no luck. Needless to say I'm in school full time and work full time so I had no time to sit around and **** with it cause its the only vehicle I had. So I took it to a mechanic and they resealed the EGR ports, went through everything. Replaced the throttle body with a used one and while they were at it I also had them replace the gaskets under the valve train to thre spark plug hole (they also did a valve lash while they had the tappet cover off). They got it to idle and I picked it up and it would stay idling but it was missing really bad. Once you give it gas it runs like a champ but at idle just real rough and missing like it fouled a spark plug (I checked the plugs and they are not fouled (NGk Iridiums I put in last summer)). Not running right and throwing a EGR code I took it back and they replaced the EGR valve off a rear ended vehicle they said had ran fine. That took care of the EGR code but it was still missing. I took it back to the garage and they gave me a loaner so I could get around. Yesterday they called me after 4 weeks of waiting and driving thier loaner vehicle and informed me they gave up. I got my money back and they had said they tried a new IAC and wires and its back to the way it was. Idles rough when its cold then when it warms up it will die at idle. Runs great when you put the throttle on but dies at whenever returning to idle speed. The only thing I can think of doing is buying the factory manual and going through every system step by step.

Any help, any suggestion no matter how stupid it may seem is appreciated. I am clueless given all I've done and really would like to afford putting in the long diagnostic time on the car. I really love this car and tried to make it run better and now it wont even idle. Thanks in advance and I'll keep everyone updated as to help any members who potentially may have the same problem

 

Try changing the spark plugs. You may have a bad one?

Verify the firing order on the plugs is 1-3-4-2.

There should be a 3-pin connector attached to the throttle position sensor. What are the wire colors going to it? What are the wire colors going to the map sensor?

On the driver's side of the car, there is the resistor box with aluminum fins near the windshield. What are the wire colors going to that electrical connector? Here is a picture of it.

 

I appreciate the help. I will look into it this weekend and get you an answer. I'll have to get some copper plugs just to be sure that one hasnt fouled. I did check the firing order and that is correct. I'm also going to make sure that I didnt replace the rotor inversly. I was careful when I changed it but I've made dumber mistakes.

 

Ive had to deal with my cars idle. I have a digital 5th gen fsm if you need,
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3nQ...it?usp=sharing

I would check to see if you did any damage while trying to change the fuel filter first but it seems more like the IACV. What seems to be happening is that the FITV will do its job and then when it closes your IACV doesnt work and kills the engine.

First, make sure the passage through the throttle body and to the upper manifold and IACV are cleared. They could be clogged. With the car on, put your finger on the upper hole in the throttle body and feel for suction. Remove the upper manifold and use throttle body cleaner to get all that cleaned up.
Then If they replaced the IACV so its not that- I would check the wiring. You can stick an ammeter in the ground and signal wire from the IACV and check while the car is on.

Also do an idle screw adjustment just to see if that will help. Turning the screw to the left on the throttle body will allow more air in.

For kicks even- im not sure but I think the IACV and IAT connectors are the same shape. Maybe check that they're not mixed up. (But youd probably get a cel anyways, im just throwing that idea out there)

 

I think the idle screw adjustment is more of a last resort to fix a problem.

 

Its a fine tuning thing really. Once the IACV and FITV are verified to be working properly, then the process of disconnecting the IACV at temp and adjusting the screw to 550 rpm is required so that the idle is correct when the ECU adjusts the IACV.

 

OP - Check what PA has already listed/asked.

Can we assume this issue was not there before you did the work?

Last, for giggles.....unplug the vac line to the egr valve....plug the hose...start the car, is the miss still there?