and also...my car says 5 20
should i listen to that? is 5 30 better?
does seasons do count?
is it 10 30 for winter and 5 30 for summer?

 

if you reside in a coooooooold winter climate use 5W-20 in winter and 10W-20 in summer , you want the thinner oil in coldeer weather

As for brands any brand will do just make sure to change oil and filter every 3000-3500 miles,
if you can afford it i would use syntetic oil..
As for the oil filter stick with Honda filter

 

Mine also calls for 5W-20, at last change I used Mobil1 5000 a 5w-30 weight. Should I go back to 5w-20 at the next change or is the 5W-30 synthetic ok.

I read on here that the synthetics are a little thinner than the dino oil in the same weight.

 

I just leave the thinking to the engineers that designed the car - go with what the manual says.. I do changes ever 4-5k instead of 7500 like it says on the airbox though.

 

Mobil 5000 is not a synthetic oil, it's just regular dino. The 5W30 won't hurt a thing but why not use what it calls for? Of the many UOA's (used oil analysis') I've seen on BOBISTHEOILGUY all of the name brand 5W20's are top shelf and providing excellent protection. If you want to go synthetic Mobil 1 0W20 or 5W20 are good choices. I agree with a Honda filter but it needs to be made by Filtech, it's printed on the filter itself.

There is no "best"........that's like asking which snack food is best. To me it's Cheetos, to you it's Pringle's, got my meaning? Frankly, as deserthonda said, any name brand oil labeled API SL or API SM (the newest) will allow the engine to go a zillion miles providing it's changed in a timely manner and not allowed to get low on the stick. I disagree in one area and feel that 5000 miles is fine for an oil change interval, longer with synthetic. See? We all have our own thoughts on what's best!

 

I only wonder because i used the 5W-30 in my truck and I usually buy it by the case, so it's just easier to use the oil that I had. But if you guys think it's better I'll switch back to the 5W-20.

Where is a good place to purchase the good oil filters, besides the dealer. I just used a Purolator that I picked up at Advance because I was short on time. Also what are your thoughts on NAPA Gold oil filters.

Thanks in advance to the help

 

Napa Gold is a good filter and so is Purolator. You don't HAVE to use Honda filters but look for the Filtech label if you do. Using 5W30 in your Honda won't harm a thing. If it makes more sense to buy 5W30 for all of your vehicles then go for it. I have a stash of 0W20 Mobil 1 that I bought on a Pep Boys "buy one get one free" coupon from about two years ago. I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic but again that's a personal choice. All of the name brand oils today are light years ahead of what they were just a few years ago.

I prefer the 0W20 but if I had a good sized batch of 5W30 I wouldn't hesitate to use it in the Honda. In other countries our same engines are not spec'd for 5W20, it's a North American spec.

I realize it seems like I'm shuffling here but I'm really not. 5W30 was the oil called for prior to the 7th gen's change to 5W20. Sooooo If you already have some why not use it? The car won't care one bit. I choose to use what it calls for but either one is just hunky-dory.

 

im about to use k and n oil filter....
thanks guys...

 

If you really want good information on oils do some searching on this good old internet for oil comparisons and testing or other search related wording. I picked my oil by reviews and try to stay away from forums on this subject as I see too much conflicting information though generally most is at least sound advice and this site is pretty good at it as well. Most here are educated I've found which is rare for some other forums that get pretty funny at times with this subject. Here is a few links if you want some informaiton but it's just as general but gives reason's to use synthetics over reg. oils.
By the way, if you run synthetics there is no need to change to different types from summer to winter because it has a very wide temp. range that it works well in. One of the major reasons as far as I've read to use this type of oil is it's pretty well understood that most wear you see in a engine is in the first 5 min. or so of warmup. As synthetics have a much colder pour rating, keeps it's thickness thoughout it's operating range of motors it will not get thinner or thicker with cold or hot weather, it flows much better at startup and saves much of the inital wear that you see more prevalient with reg. oils. Here is the links if you want to read it. Get as much info. as you can and only try to find independant reviews and car mag tests before you make up your mind on which brand you think is best. That will prevent personal preferences from getting in the way though you may even see it in reviews as well as the writer may have made up his or her mind on which they like as well. It's a human condition that's hard to get around no matter where you go. I'm def. no different so I prefer now to keep things general like this reply and let the person make up their own mind after doing as much research as they feel is needed. Fair enough?
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
http://www.technilube.com/sections/comps/synth_diff.htm This one may be biased but if they post it and arn't sued ??? Hard to tell. Most oil mfg's tend to say their oil outperforms other major brands without going any farther or mentioning which brands and how they outperform them either. I steer clear from those type of oils. If they can't prove it they'd be sued if they printed false data of the other companies. Mobil sued Castrol over their syntec oil (I think that's who it was) when they said their oil was synthetic, they lost but they were right just the same. Darn lawyers.....
http://www.getahelmet.com/jeeps/tech/syntheticoil/ A pretty good write up about synthetics and the two brands I'd only recomend to anyone I knew personally are talked about here.
But please do your own research and form your own opnion on which is best for you. These are a few links that give at least a starting point and shows the benifits of synthetics and teaches you some good points about what this type of oil is all about. Just use the ratings honda recomends for the basis and go with a synthetic that is in the recomended ranges and you shouldn't go wrong. A lot of what's out there to read is sponcered by a seller in some cases so watch for that as well. Try to find independant articles.
Then again if you don't plan on keeping the car for a long time then maybe the higher costs can not add up for everyone. Good luck either way.
I've used synthetics for many many years and I've no doubt of it's benifits by now. My Audi's temp gauge shows it runs cooler oil with it than with reg. oils as well as the hyl. lifters don't clatter at startup like it really did a lot with reg. oil. That was a real attention grabber.

 

Honda states 5W-20 since that is what they used for the CARE tests for MPG measurement. After I break-in our engine then I will go with synthetic 5W-30 or 10W-30. I used 10W-30 dino from day 1 in our 1987 Chev. Celebrity 4 cyl. with autotrans. It has 251,316 miles, doesn't smoke or drip oil, and it get 31 MPG at 65+ MPH on the highway.

The stats that I have seen for synthetics indicate that 10W-30 is probably the best oil for the lower 48 and probably Alaska as well since the cold pour points are very close. I will probably use Amsoil or Mobil 1 in 10W-30. The stats are pretty close with Mobil 1 being cheaper (less than 1/2 price with sales). Amsoil and Mobil are now marketing a 0W-30 synthetic. Someone ran a BMW for a million miles on Mobil 1 and I believe it was 10W-30.

The Mobil 1 filter is one of the best filters made. The Mobil 1 has synthetic filtering material. The Amsoil may be better (?), but it costs about double or more with shipping. Amsoil is suppose to filter out 1 micron material, but that doesn't matter much since the filter by-pass valve opens up and recirculates all of the crud when the oil is cold, filter slightly dirty, or at moderate speeds or above. You can bet the 1 micron filter opens up before the 10 micron filter does. The only sure way to keep the particles contained is to install a by-pass oil filter where a small part of the oil is filtered 100 %.