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When I'm driving my car, it will suddenly start jerking pretty hard about every second then all of a sudden it stops. I then engine has little power when this happens, and it can happen in every gear.
This happened while on the interstate, and I had a chance to do some troubleshooting. I put the car in neutral and the jerking stopped. I hit the gas in neutral, and the engine sounded fine. When I put the car back into 5th gear, the jerking started again. I slowed down, and 4th gear had the same problem. When I hit the gas in gear, the car tried to accelerate, but the jerking was working against me. My engine had very little power. I ruled out bad gas, because I ran the car to close to empty and got gas from another station.
My idle was oscillating all of the time, so I thought that this might be causing the problem. My fast idle valve was the problem. It was open when the engine was hot, so essentally it created a vacuum leak. I replaced it, and now my idle is fine. I had to reset my ecu, becasue after installation, my idle was stuck at 3000 rpm.
I still have the bucking problem intermittently, but have observed some more information about it.
It usually happens from ~ 2000 through 3000 rpms. The engine loses most of its power while it bucks and have to push through 3000 rpm to get it to stop.
It happens bad when the coolant temperature is rising from cold to normal operating temperature.
I think that I can feel the problem all of the time from 2000-3000 rpm, but it is definitely worse when the engine is warming up. The bucking can still be bad when the car is warmed up though.
Any suggestions/advice would be greatly appreciated.
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The front motor mount was replaced right after this started happening. I had just noticed that it was cracked and had a new one on the shelf waiting to intsall. The trans mount looks ok. I will find out about the side mount when I do my timing belt.
Now that leaves the rear mount. It is pretty hard to get a good look at it. I know that there are some vacuum tests to inspect it. Is there any tricks that you could pass on to identify a faulty rear mount?
It looks like a PIA to replace. Does the intake manifold have to come out to do this?
I don't want to throw a lot of parts at this problem without some sort of verification of a failing part. I was afraid that a dealership would most likely take this route.
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