The check engine light in my 99 Accord deos not go away. So far, the Mechanic has replaced the two-way valve in the Evap System and installed two plugs to fix two leaks that he found by blowing smoke in the system. The light went away for three days but came back on again.
The car is due for an Emission test. Is there any quick fix so it can pass the test or can any one provide any tips.
Thanks

 

Stop by an autozone and have them read the codes. They don't charge for that service. Post them on here, and we can give you better information.

The codes are P####.

 

Judging from what they did, it was probably P1457. But read the codes again. There's a thread in the DIY Answers about P1457.

The CEL won't come back on for a couple days after it's cleared, but at the same time the OBD-2 "Readyness Codes" will NOT be set. They shouldn't pass the car unless those readyness codes are set.

 

I did take it to Autozone. This is the error code: P1457
Mission contol system leak detected ( Control Canister System)

Probable cause:

001 Loose fuel cap
002 Vapor canister saturated
003 Failed vent solenoid
004 Fail purge solenoid

 

"Mission control" LOL
EVAP system leak in the canister section of the EVAP system.

001 Loose gas cap on a Honda would set P1456 instead.
002 can be caused by over-filling the gas tank
003/004/&beyond there's several other solenoids also, as well as a fuel-tank pressure sensor.

Finally, this error can also be caused by a cracked canister or dry/cracked/leaking vacuum hoses. The canister is underneath the car roughly below the left-rear seat.

Did you check out the P1457 post in the DIY-Answers section?

 

You should read the DIY on 1457. Follow the diag instructions and you will likely find an inop CVS (canister vent shut) they are prone to going bad on that series of accord. Apply voltage and ground and you should hear it click and if you are holding on to it you should be able to feel it as well. If nothing happens when you energize it then it has stuck and needs replaced. When replacing a CVS the screws are frequently frozen in place and the little nuts that are molded into the plastic of the cannister won't grip and that requires replacing the cannister and the cvs.

 

Is the cvs the same as the shut valve cause that's what the mechanic said it needed. He replaced the two-way valve but later said that that the car does not need the shut off valve. He said todrive the car so that it has enough cycles then return it to have it tested again. Well the light came back on after5 days.

 

I checked the DIY section and all I found was the Diagnostic/troubleshooting codes but no Diagnostic instructions unless I am blind and missed that section.
Also, how are the readyness codes set, Will that pass the emission test.

I suppose to take the car back to the shop tomorrow. Any advise on what to do next will be greatly appreciated.

 

assuming all the hoses and connection were checked out by your mechanic...

Have him test the EVAP bypass solenoid valve and the EVAP vent shut valve ,,since you have already replaced the 2 way valve
these other 2 are the most common cause that i have found to cause code p1457

 

DIY section. "DIY ANSWERS" sub-section. Here you go.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=27179

They're set automatically as you drive. There's a set of criteria that has to be satisfied, it's not as simple as how many miles and/or how many times you start the engine. The testing station looks for them to be set, and if they're not they'll know you recently reset your ECU.