Comatosed 94 accord
#1
09-16-2016, 01:23 PM
Comatosed 94 accord
Hi everyone, I have a 94 accord coupe M/T LX, 150miles short from 350,000miles. yesterday as I was backing up( AC on/radio on no issues) I let the clutch go too soon, the engine went dead. when restarting, I noticed the fuel pump wasn't pumping, new fuel pump less than 4 months old. sprayed starting fluid but didn't start the engine- was the trick I'm doing before replacing the fuel pump. then after multiple tries, the cluster went dead- no engine light and all the normal indicators that should light up are dead.
the following works: headlight, AC fan, radio but nothing related to engine starting. ignition switch still lights up and cranks but engine doesn't turn.
hope someone here can help me.
please don't tell me to dump the car since it's old, my 95 accord sedan has 580k miles and counting, so hoping to reach that age too.
thanks in advance
the following works: headlight, AC fan, radio but nothing related to engine starting. ignition switch still lights up and cranks but engine doesn't turn.
hope someone here can help me.
please don't tell me to dump the car since it's old, my 95 accord sedan has 580k miles and counting, so hoping to reach that age too.
thanks in advance
#2
09-17-2016, 09:56 AM
Turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Does the check engine light turn on for about two seconds, then turn off?
If you have a volt meter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. you should have over 12.4 or 12.6 volts,
When you say the engine cranks but doesn't turn, do you mean that the starter motor spins the engine, but the engine will not fire up and run on its own (that is when you typically release the key). People describe the starting system differently, so I want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.
If you have a volt meter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. you should have over 12.4 or 12.6 volts,
When you say the engine cranks but doesn't turn, do you mean that the starter motor spins the engine, but the engine will not fire up and run on its own (that is when you typically release the key). People describe the starting system differently, so I want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.
#3
09-17-2016, 08:41 PM
PAhonda: no check engine lights at all. battery is well charged and has 12.6 volts. yes starter motor spins.
I had a burnt cable going in the ignition keys 3months ago that I bypassed but replacement bybass has contact and seemed not to be the isues.
thanks for your response
I had a burnt cable going in the ignition keys 3months ago that I bypassed but replacement bybass has contact and seemed not to be the isues.
thanks for your response
Turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. Does the check engine light turn on for about two seconds, then turn off?
If you have a volt meter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. you should have over 12.4 or 12.6 volts,
When you say the engine cranks but doesn't turn, do you mean that the starter motor spins the engine, but the engine will not fire up and run on its own (that is when you typically release the key). People describe the starting system differently, so I want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.
If you have a volt meter, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. you should have over 12.4 or 12.6 volts,
When you say the engine cranks but doesn't turn, do you mean that the starter motor spins the engine, but the engine will not fire up and run on its own (that is when you typically release the key). People describe the starting system differently, so I want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.
#5
09-21-2016, 07:30 PM
^ That gets a little tricky......it is like posting "how to steal" a 94-97 Honda Accord in seconds.
There are manuals with wiring diagrams that you can read and apply a little logic to and you can figure out what "circuits" need power from the switch to start the car.
In my younger days...I had an 81 Accord coupe where the switch burnt up.....driving down the road and smoke came out of the switch and the car died......a temp fix with a few feet of wire got the car off the road and home. Once home with more tools, I was able to "properly HOT WIRE" the car. Drove it like that for a few weeks until I could afford a new ign switch.
There are manuals with wiring diagrams that you can read and apply a little logic to and you can figure out what "circuits" need power from the switch to start the car.
In my younger days...I had an 81 Accord coupe where the switch burnt up.....driving down the road and smoke came out of the switch and the car died......a temp fix with a few feet of wire got the car off the road and home. Once home with more tools, I was able to "properly HOT WIRE" the car
. Drove it like that for a few weeks until I could afford a new ign switch.
#6
09-22-2016, 08:32 AM
^ That gets a little tricky......it is like posting "how to steal" a 94-97 Honda Accord in seconds.
There are manuals with wiring diagrams that you can read and apply a little logic to and you can figure out what "circuits" need power from the switch to start the car.
In my younger days...I had an 81 Accord coupe where the switch burnt up.....driving down the road and smoke came out of the switch and the car died......a temp fix with a few feet of wire got the car off the road and home. Once home with more tools, I was able to "properly HOT WIRE" the car. Drove it like that for a few weeks until I could afford a new ign switch.
There are manuals with wiring diagrams that you can read and apply a little logic to and you can figure out what "circuits" need power from the switch to start the car.
In my younger days...I had an 81 Accord coupe where the switch burnt up.....driving down the road and smoke came out of the switch and the car died......a temp fix with a few feet of wire got the car off the road and home. Once home with more tools, I was able to "properly HOT WIRE" the car
. Drove it like that for a few weeks until I could afford a new ign switch.
#7
09-24-2016, 11:25 AM
yup just downloaded a diagram online also ordered a used hard bounded service manual from Amazon for comparison.
checked all wires and it seems it's the ignition switch, check c my peeps at Honda Tenafly and it would cost me around $200. I'm checking the lines again today before I order the switch since restocking fee+ shipping is not cheap.
only thin that throws me off is radio, a/c headlight are turning on obviously the line for Engine and ECU is separate but part of the ignition switch does work
checked all wires and it seems it's the ignition switch, check c my peeps at Honda Tenafly and it would cost me around $200. I'm checking the lines again today before I order the switch since restocking fee+ shipping is not cheap.
only thin that throws me off is radio, a/c headlight are turning on obviously the line for Engine and ECU is separate but part of the ignition switch does work
#8
09-24-2016, 01:43 PM
That is pretty expensive for the ignition switch. I think you can order the electrical part of the switch and the wire harness for less money.
Sounds like they quoted you for the whole switch that includes the mechanical side. If your key moves through the positions easily, then the mechanical side is not needed.
Sounds like they quoted you for the whole switch that includes the mechanical side. If your key moves through the positions easily, then the mechanical side is not needed.
#9
09-24-2016, 02:31 PM
That is pretty expensive for the ignition switch. I think you can order the electrical part of the switch and the wire harness for less money.
Sounds like they quoted you for the whole switch that includes the mechanical side. If your key moves through the positions easily, then the mechanical side is not needed.
Sounds like they quoted you for the whole switch that includes the mechanical side. If your key moves through the positions easily, then the mechanical side is not needed.
correct it is an entire OEM assembly, I do get 15-20% off that total. also correct it is more expensive compared to after market but they do provide good customer service/replacement for defective parts, like got a Denso alternator that gave up in less than a year. they replaced it with a brand new unit.
I still can't figure out just by looking at the diagram what supplies the cluster/engine light, giving up for today. maybe tomorrow i'll take another look, thanks.
anyone selling a 94-97 accord wagon lol?
#10
09-25-2016, 06:13 AM
Have them check this PN - 35130-SV4-003. Online the thing is only ~$40.
Before replacing, test it to be sure, a volt meter and some time is all it will cost.
Next, are you sure the battery is fully charged and the cables - all ends of both cables - are clean and tight?
Before replacing, test it to be sure, a volt meter and some time is all it will cost.
Next, are you sure the battery is fully charged and the cables - all ends of both cables - are clean and tight?