So I bought another 91 wagon (an lx) a few months ago and I am keeping the ex for parts. It had some minor issues, the cord for the clock appears to be missing, speed sensor and wiper motor were worn out.(recently replaced) neither fan worked to begin with. The radiator fan was fixed with a new relay but the condenser fan was a mystery. Today I found the issue and its not pretty: fan switch is totally burned and melted.
So my questions are: if I can get the melted plastic out what is the likelihood that this may happen again? is it just a case of some dummy not using grease or possibly some other underlying issue or could it have been the main issue that caused the wiper motor and speed sensor to burn out(does the wiring even run along the same pathway)? Furthermore is there a safe way to splice a new plug on there?
I am a relatively inexperienced home mechanic, but I am eager to learn and have done rather well so far with help from the internet. But, I cant seem to find any resource directly related to this! Any help or advice would be much appreciated!

 

That looks like the ECT switch - the one that tells the computer the temp of the engine.

Next it looks like the plastic part of the ect has come apart. You might be able to pull the plastic part out of the connector and save the wire end of the connector.

If not, find a donor car (bone yard) and snip off another one, try to get as much of the "wire" as you can......extra wire is always better . If you don't have a soldering iron then get the proper butt connectors and some heat shrink tubing and have at it.

 

Those connectors should not be the issue with the condenser fan not running.

The green connector with the Wht/Grn and Blk wires is for the fan Switch B. If coolant temperature is above 226 degrees F, switch will close and radiator fan should run when ignition turned OFF until fan timer removes power (about 15 minutes) or Switch B opens.

The other connector is for the Coolant Temperature sensor (TW sensor) aka ECT sensor. Wire colors should be Yel/Grn and Grn/Wht. This sensor tells the ECU the coolant temperature and will affect ignition timing and fuel mix.

The broken sensor looks like it can be pulled out of the connector. You can try different things like drilling a little bit into the broken sensor and screwing in a screw and pulling on the screw with a pair of pliers to yank the sensor out of the connector. Part of the sensor may break when you drill; if that happens, then it may even give you something like a piece of the sensor terminal to grip onto with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it out.

 

So basically the fan not working is still a mystery. I pulled the condenser fan outa the other car and it would not run either. (it ran fine in the other car) im about to go try to pull the junk outta the connector now. its pretty stuck, I will try the screw thing first, thanks guys.

 

The condenser fan circuit has more to it; but, let's do a simple test.

1. Disconnect the electrical connector to the condenser fan relay. Use a wire to jump the harness (wire side) connector's Wht wire to the Blu/Yel wire. The condenser fan should run.

If it doesn't run, it is either not getting power from under-hood Fuse No. 29 (15A) via the Wht wire or the ground connection to the condenser fan motor is suspect.

2. Ground for condenser fan is at G281 (left front corner of engine compartment).

 

I got the temp sensor plug spliced on, and while I was in there I replaced the gauge sending unit because it was burned up pretty bad and I figured it was bound to fail any time. There is no power going to the condenser fan. fuses are good, I will try the dealership for a new relay. neither autozone or napa have one. I do have a parts car but im not getting any power on that fan either. I noticed that the numbers do not match between cars on the black cube shaped one that is between the two cylinder shaped ones. this is not in my book, what is it for and could this part of the problem? thank you.

 

That is the A/C diode, it can affect the ECU from triggering the condenser fan operation when the A/C is on; but, the Coolant Temperature Switch A (aka Fan Switch A, located on thermostat housing) should still be able to trigger the condenser regardless of the A/C diode. Disconnect the connector for Fan Switch A, and use a wire to jump the connector. With the ignition in RUN or START, does both fans run?

Don't replace the condenser fan relay yet, it may still be good. Have you did the other test from my previous post; to use a wire to jump the harness (wire side) connector's Wht wire to the Blu/Yel wire, where the condenser fan relay plugs in?

 

Honestly i've never done that procedure before but I will give it a shot here soon.is there a particular type of wire I should use? google isn't helping much right now.
All I did was use a light tester to see if there was any indication of power from the relay and there was not. I already had the fan out of the other car, (pulled it to see how things work, guess I'm weird like that) so I plugged it into both connectors, turned on the car with a/c and no go. The radiator fan does work btw.

 

Any wire or a small paper clip. Don't use a large paper clip, as you don't want to make the cavity terminals larger.

 

finally got some time. Neither fan ran when I jumped fan switch a. I hear a clicking noise in both the fuse box and somewhere down near the fans. And as for the first test, is this the harness? the lower one only has one red wire.
Thanks again.