Thanks sir_nasty for the quick response. Two days after "fixing" this I came down with a flu that was going around and so, the few times I've driven this, since then I've gotten intermittent squaking. That's common with belts being too tight or too loose and assumed that was the problem. I watched it move in and out today while squaking and you may be right. I may have to return the $62.99 harmonic balancer and get the $100 dollar one,...so I can go back to work,...so I can make more money,....so I can buy more parts,...so I can,..wait,...I said that already. I'll post again when I get this resolved and I'll be sure to mention the manufacturer if this harmonic balancer has a flaw that others should be wary of.

 

You may be able to shim it but shims that are possibly out of balance on a crankshaft just frightens me... I'd just go to the auto parts store and compare them side by side (if they have one of each in stock) and see what the difference (if any) is.

 

WOW! After reading these comment about harmonic balancers, I don't feel so bad after all. I have two Accords (99 and 01). They were both due for timing belts so I opted to tackle the job myself. The harmonic balancer was the worst problem I had! I did the job on the 99 model first and made the mistake of reading the Haynes Manual. It specifically states use a "chain-type" strap wrench on the pulley to hold it while breaking the crank bolt with a breaker bar. It even has a good picture of a guy doing just that.It certainly held the pulley while I stood on the breaker bar and literally bounced until it broke loose - just like the other guys said - once broken freeI could spin the bolt with my hand! But the problem then was that the strap wrench CRUSHED THE BELT GROOVES IN THE PULLEY!!! DO NOT USE A STRAP WRENCH ON THE PULLEY!!!!

But wait it gets worse - I found the replacement pulley (just as good as OEM) at NAPA ($57) and installed it. Got the 99 all put back together and it runs great! But when getting the pulley off the 01, I tried a 1/2" impact as others have stated but it didn't budge. I then attempted the strap wrench again but wrapped the old alternator belt around the pulley for protection but the force needed to break the bolt loose crushed the grooves anyway!! So another $57 at NAPA and I am finished with the second one.

I agree....why would honda tighten that pulley with 180ft-lbs?

 

because if that bolt comes loose your engine is toast.

 

On the 91 accords the correct torque setting is 159 ft. lbs. also there is a small washer that is to be replaced after disassembly. It has one chamfered side to it, that side is to face the head of the bolt.

 

Unbelievable,... I didn't like the looks of the lower timing cover once I'd gotten the harmonic balancer off. After nine days in the rain, getting the new balancer on was all I was concerned about. So BONDO on the timing cover must be there for a reason, right? Maybe to keep the harmonic balancer from scooting in and out? My new harmonic balancer is toast. According to Chilton's, from what I can tell, I may have to remove a side engine mount, alternator, power steering pump, engine wiring harness, splash sheild from below the engine, cruise control actuator, valve cover, upper timing belt cover, side engine mount support bracket, dipstick and dipstick tube, and two rear bolts from the center beam so I can slowly lower the engine for enough clearance to remove the lower timing belt cover!!??!! If that's what it takes to replace a timing cover I guess I can understand somebody slappin' a little Bondo in there and hopin' it doesn't come back to haunt them. I still think these parts should be cheaper than dirt as much work as they are to replace. And still wishin' I had the digital camera so you guys could see this. Uhmm,...doesn't it say somewhere on the Bondo can,.."Not suitable for mechanical repairs."?

 

Was there something wrong with the crank pulley (BTW, wasit OEM?) you originally removed? If so, was what was wrong withthe original pulleythe same thing that's wrong with the new one you just installed?

If they both failed inthe same way (for presumably the same reason), something's definitely not right with how the pulley is mating to the crank.

About the bondo on the lower timing cover - it must be cracked or broken, right? Why is it broken? If there was something wrong with the pulley you removed, and now there's something wrong with the pulley you just installed, and there's also a broken lower cover, I'd be thinking that that's a bit too coincidental for comfort.

If I were you, I'd be hoping that nobody in the past"modified" the end of the crank - perhaps to install a desired new pulley.

At this point I think the best thing would be to get a new or used Honda OEM pulley, install it, and see if itstays trouble-free for awhile. If it does, thank your lucky stars and leave it on the car.

 

Hey Tony, the original pulley/harmonic balancer had seperated and the larger pulley was slipping on the smaller inner pulley. It didn't make much noise as long as I didn't use the AC. I guess the compressor added enough of a twist that it chattered when it kicked in. When I got noise from the new pulley I assumed it was, like the old Buick, just an adjustment in the belts that was needed. Having made four or five short trips and adjusting both belts I caught the noise maker in the act. Like I said before the new pulley moved in and out about a quarter inch, or more, from the engine when it chattered. I had a job in Conroe Thursday and put about 200 miles on it without using the AC. No chatter. I didn't drive it Friday and Saturday morningI took nasty's advise and compared the old one with a new one. Very little difference. Autozone won't refund but said they'd exchange it. That's assuming they gave me the wrong part. They didn't. I can't tell from the drawings or pictures in the manual what the actual lower timing cover is supposed to look like but, to me it looks like the lower timing gear is what's exposed behind the pulley. The original timing cover was probably chewed off and it looks like the outer belt guide was left off. I definitely need a new cover and a shop manual. This car gets great gas mileage compared to the Buick but, that Buick was a lot easier to work on.
The stereo volume is uncontrollable and shifts from one speaker to another. The check engine light comes on sporadically. The speed sensor works sometimes. The brake light goes off and on even though the bulbs are good. Since replacing the balancer I've replaced the battery and a heater hose that pinholed anti-freeze onto the parking lot. The jumpered code reader blinks crank angle and speed sensor. To top it off the power steering pump is whirring now and that's probably because I tightened it up too much to stop the chatter. I'm thinking of getting a bicycle with a little more trunk space than the Honda, but we'll see. I just got this car March 29th and old schoolin' hasn't helped any.

 

Please take a look at the photos I took of thedirver'send of my '92 Accord's enginewhen I did a timing belt job last yearin this thread:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/m_22119/mpage_2/tm.htm
The photos showThe Bolt, thepulley, andlower cover very well.

This particularphoto

indicates that the inner (closer to the engine)part of the pulley is the larger part of the pulley. I hope that this is what you meant. If it isn't, then I think we've found at least part ofthe problem.

But there's something else, too.
It's impossible for the outer belt guide (the raised edge of the balancer-belt pulley)to be left off. It's all one piece. I hope that the balancer belt pulley was not installed backwards.

Take a look at the photos in that thread and let us know what you think.

 

Ahhh, Tony,...thank you. That's what I needed and my search never turned up! When reading the Chilton's I'm constantly reading instructions and looking at pictures that don't apply to my model. That was the belt guide mistake. Different model.

The inner/outer thing was my fault too. The larger pulley is closer to the engine but is, and keeps, seperating from the smaller inner pulley that is furthest from the engine. WhenI explain to someone what has happened to the harmonic balancer I picture the balancer itself rather than it's placement. I don't know what sort of rubber or adhesive they use to press those two pulleys together but I considered driving finishing nails between the rubber and the larger pulley to keep it from spinning on the smaller pulley. I considered that whenI couldn't get the bolt out and needed to move the car.

In my online parts search I came across some aluminum underdrive pulleys as cheap as $54.00. Pretty red, blue and silver. But they look to be one piece as opposed to pressed together. (Remember stupid questions are the easiest to answer.) Do they make harmonic balancers solid like that?

I jumped on the Autozone $62.99 because O'Rielley's wanted $99.00. And $120.00 for a speed sensor! Unemployed and somewhat self-employed the oddjobs I do force me to be a bargain shopper. Buying cheap always costs you in the long run. I've spent over $250 going cheap and I'm back at square one.

I'm in an apartment complex that frowns on auto repairs. I need to do that same job but, for now just need to get back to "point A to point B" status. What I don't understand is the pulley moving toward and away from the engine. I can't imagine, as tight as that bolt is, that a flimsy timing cover would play a part in keeping the pulley from moving. The hump on the back of the pulley should seat on that crankshaft timing gear, right? Which makes me think the shaft is moving!? How screwed up is that?(<--not rhetorical)

Can I replace the lower timing cover without removing all the extra? I only have two jackstands and also assume you used four to keep the car level for lowering the engine. ("Ewww,...is that a can of worms!? I think I'll open that!)

Not having AC in Houston,Texas is like going into a steambath fully clothed. I'm thinking you're in Canada, could afford, and had a garage for this job. I should be able to borrow some money and a garage and tools for the job but need the bandaid to get to the garage. I'm at 137,000 plus miles and with the speed sensor cuttin' in and out, (for who knows how long!), I'm probably long overdue for a new timing belt. I've bookmarked your thread and certainly appreciate your posting that. I'm thinking August 2007 may well surpass July's notoriaty. Thanks again for all the help,...Tom