does CV boot split open mean axle replacement?
#1
does CV boot split open mean axle replacement?
I took my 1996 Accord in for an oil change at the Honda dealership and it was recommended that I replace two front axles because my two outer CV boots are split open. I have not noticed any unusual noises or vibrations while driving. Is this a reasonable recommendation?
My immediate gut feeling is that if the problem is the CV boots then those are what needs to be replaced, or if the CV joints are damaged then those should be replaced and only as a last resort would be entire axles. but then I know little about the mechanical arts and the specifics of Honda's.
Also, how much should these types of repairs cost? The age and value of the car makes me hesitate on making major repairs especially if unnecessary.
My immediate gut feeling is that if the problem is the CV boots then those are what needs to be replaced, or if the CV joints are damaged then those should be replaced and only as a last resort would be entire axles. but then I know little about the mechanical arts and the specifics of Honda's.
Also, how much should these types of repairs cost? The age and value of the car makes me hesitate on making major repairs especially if unnecessary.
Last edited by P5-133XL; 03-18-2014 at 07:18 AM.
#3
It's more work/cost to replace boots than replace axles, unless you DIY.
I've replaced boot once when I thought CV joint was good and had good results. However, replacing boot is a very messy, tedious job.
A second time, I considered doing this (boot not split but leaking grease) and when I opened th joint there was obvious severe wear on parts.
Suggest replacing them or continuing to drive until they begin to pop/crack where you'll have to replace them.
good luck
I've replaced boot once when I thought CV joint was good and had good results. However, replacing boot is a very messy, tedious job.
A second time, I considered doing this (boot not split but leaking grease) and when I opened th joint there was obvious severe wear on parts.
Suggest replacing them or continuing to drive until they begin to pop/crack where you'll have to replace them.
good luck
#4
If the boot is split open, you have to ask yourself how long has it been open, & if any mud/water/crud has gotten inside.
If the joints are damaged, it's often more economical to replace the whole axle, just because that's how the parts prices are setup. Kinda the opposite if you're accustomed to VW or other European cars.
If the joints are damaged, it's often more economical to replace the whole axle, just because that's how the parts prices are setup. Kinda the opposite if you're accustomed to VW or other European cars.
#6
A few years ago I replaced both axles on my 97 Accord, the brand I bought on line was EMPI, and they cost about 175.00 for both back then.
Not too bad of a job to replace with the right tools, and have not had any problems with them for the past 50K miles.
I also agree, replace both axles and good luck!
Not too bad of a job to replace with the right tools, and have not had any problems with them for the past 50K miles.
I also agree, replace both axles and good luck!
#7
My visualization of a CV joint, the axles only contain two parts of the CV joint. Another major part is attached to the motor/transmission. If the axles need to be replaced, doesn't the whole of the CV joint need to be replaced i.e. the portion attached to the motor/transmission too?
#8
On Hondas, the inner stub-axle comes out with the driveshaft. That opens up the transmission, & MTF can pour out the opening. That stub-axle has a snap-ring & you pry the axle out with large screwdrivers or something like that. The new axle has to firmly snap into place. Some people have been less forceful & the axle stub eventually comes partway out & disengages.
If you're accustomed to some European cars, the "inner driver" normally stays in the transmission. On those cars you would undo the large end of the inboard rubber boot & pull the shaft & spider-bearing out of the inner driver.
If you're accustomed to some European cars, the "inner driver" normally stays in the transmission. On those cars you would undo the large end of the inboard rubber boot & pull the shaft & spider-bearing out of the inner driver.
#9
You've gone way beyond my knowledge.
I was merely asking that if the reason for the need to replace the axles was because road debris can now get into the CV joint damaging the gears shouldn't the motor portion of the CV joint also be replaced and if not then why?
I was merely asking that if the reason for the need to replace the axles was because road debris can now get into the CV joint damaging the gears shouldn't the motor portion of the CV joint also be replaced and if not then why?
#10
OK ... your mechanic stated that the outer CV boot covers were split, so doesn't affect seal around tranny, which would be inner covers. If you do have shop repair it, replacing both sides would cost $450+ in my neck of woods, parts/labor.
But CV joint / axle parts are strong, so you can likely drive for 10K miles more without it leaving you on side of road. At some point it will start making clicking sounds when turning at parking lot speeds - then you need to move it up on the priority list.
I drove a Nissan for 10K+ miles before replacing axles, 'after they started clicking on slow turns.' A guy I know is now working on 12K miles on an old Honda Prelude in same clicking condition. This is not a first priority repair call. my $.02
best to you
But CV joint / axle parts are strong, so you can likely drive for 10K miles more without it leaving you on side of road. At some point it will start making clicking sounds when turning at parking lot speeds - then you need to move it up on the priority list.
I drove a Nissan for 10K+ miles before replacing axles, 'after they started clicking on slow turns.' A guy I know is now working on 12K miles on an old Honda Prelude in same clicking condition. This is not a first priority repair call. my $.02
best to you