P1491 EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected

1996 accord lx 2.2 5 spd.
At idle , around 900 rpms engine will let out a short like misfire almost, sounds like a put, only a single one, sometimes will only go put once then not again, sometimes will go put-put-.....put-put-put, and sometimes will not do it at all, but again this is only at idle, once i hit the gas no problem, throwing the p1491 code , so i changed the egr valve, cleared the ecu , light came back on agian 1 day later same code p1491 , don't have any idea where to go from here , again this is a 96 2.2 non vtech with a 5 speed with about 194,000 miles on it, any help would be greatly appreaciated

 

The EGR is not going to have any effect when the engine is at idle.

To check for plugged up EGR ports, unhook the vacum line from the EGR valve and apply 15" vacum while the engine is at idle to open the valve, the engine should stumble or die.
[Some EGR valves you can slip your finger under the top and push up to open the valve]
To check for EGR control circuit problems; have the engine fully warmed up and bring the engine speed up to around 1600/1700 RPM.
you should then have vacum on the EGR vacum line.

if you need to clear the EGR ports here's a link;

http://www.freewebs.com/hondadude/95...5AccordEGR.htm

 

hey hondadude , thanks for the reply, here is what i did and what the car did

first off i had the engine at idle, pulled the vaccum line off the egr valve and applied vaccum, the engine stumbled and would have died had i not took off the vaccum, so i guess that is working properly

i then had a friend run the engine at 1700 rpm and i pulled the vaccum line off the egr valve, ( i think that is what you were telling me to do ) anyways there was no suction on the line, so now where do i go from here?? thanks in advance

 

okay it sounds like the EGR ports are not plugged up.
So no vacum on the EGR line huh? Couldn't be easy all the timeI guess. LOL
back track the vacum line to thesolenoid that turns on the vacum,[picture] blast it out with brake cleaner. Carb cleaner is not recommended.
I'll start looking for the rest of the diagnostic tree.



[IMG]local://upfiles/5417/ABDA6FE3224F439C9D5EF0366725B128.gif[/IMG]

 

nope no vaccum on the egr line, i'm guessing i would be able to feel the vaccum suck my finger towards it, i'll go out right now and look for the solenoid

 

ok, i went out and followed the line from the egr to a green little round thing, it also has a line going to a metal and plastic thing next to it, which also has a wire harness on it, so that must be the solenoid, i disconnected it and pulled the two vaccum lines off of it and shot it down with brake cleaner, waited for it to drain out and dry up, replaced and started up, still going put put put, like a misfire, ran it up to 1700 rpm and checked for vaccum and still no vaccum on the egr valve line, so i am guessing the solenoid is bad???? also what is the little round green thing next to the solenoid

 

so should i replave the solenoid?

 

First check that voltage is reaching solenoid connector when solenoid should open. If voltage is present and valve does not open, solenoid driver is bad. You can also rig wires from battery and ground, and perform a brief touch check to confirm that solenoid is not moving.

good luck

 

hey texas honda, thanks for your reply, could you give me detailed instructions on how to check for the voltage, does the car need to be running? should i have it at 1700 rpms? how do i hard wire to the battery??

 

ok, i have an update, usually when i clear the ecu the check engine light comes back on within a couple hours, well the last time i cleared the ecu was saturday, and since then it hasn't thrown a code yet, maybe when i cleaned out the solenoid it freed it up, not sure, but i know i havn't thrown the code yet again, the problem is i am still having the spitting and sputtering at idle, does anyone know what this could be???