Well I was hoping for an easy fix

You might want to go ahead and rent/loan a pressure tester. Check the timing marks, if in line I would then use the tester to see what the cyl's are telling you.

 

Yeah, I was kind of hoping for an easy fix too.
Yeah, that was kind of my plan of attack, in that I want to check the timing marks first (while the dampener is already off), then check the fuel pressure, as I was looking at it, but it's not set up like my 97, so I'll have to figure out how that will work out. I only say that, as there aren't any banjo fittings on a 99 or an 00. Nor is there a test port (like GM uses).

In the mean time (while I wait on my parts to arrive in the next couple of days), I've been doing some metal patching on my Toyota wantabe (Geo Prizm), as winter will be here before you know it, and that's my dedicated "salt sucker". Don't get me wrong, I'll run the 97 Accord as long as I can, but I've got summer tires on it, and I know it won't be worth a damn in the snow (and we get real winters around here).

 

Ok, got a look at the FSM, and in it they remove the "fuel pulsation dampener" then use a Honda adapter to attach a fuel pressure gauge onto the fitting in the fuel rail. Looks like I'll be either fabbing something or having to purchase the adapter. I don't know if the adapter I bought and adjusted for my 97 will work, but I'm going to try it first. If I have to buy an adapter, who is a good source for getting it? It's part number 07VAJ-0040100 "Fuel Pressure gauge attachment". I can always get use of it with my wife's 2000 Accord. ;-)

 

Replacing the balancer and checking the timing were what fixed it, as the lower gear had moved since the key walked out of the gear. The lower gear had moved to the left about 1 tooth (that -10.5* of timing) or the width of the key slot. Corrected that, and reset the belts, along with adding the balance shaft seal retainer clip. Put everything back together and fired it up. Runs great. I put the scan tool on it and got 12* advance at idle which I believe is what it should read. I did also throw a set of new NGK plugs at it too. But, I do need to order up some timing belts for it, and change them as these are a little worn for doing anything more than testing (I'd prefer to have new ones on it). Took it out for a road test and found the trans shifts nice and smooth, has good power and doesn't have a pull (left or right). I think I might keep it. Also there were no "expensive" noises to be heard. I guess I got lucky in that there was no real engine damage done.

 

Glad you got it going.

One tooth is not enough to cause any engine damage....besides the engine running like crap.

Thanks for the follow up on this and the other thread . Always like to know the "end of the story".

 

Yeah, 1 tooth off at the crank will definitely cause it to run like crap. I couldn't believe how bad it ran. I guess that might be a sort of safety device in the design. But then I'm sure the PO didn't get too far once it threw the accessory belts. I know the dash must have lit up like a Christmas tree to him, as it had a bunch of lights on (from not running the alt). Just really surprised it didn't throw a code.