Engine Won't Start Immediately After Turning Off
#1
Engine Won't Start Immediately After Turning Off
Hi there,
I have a slightly annoying problem with my '94 Accord LX. If, after driving around for a bit, I turn off the car and try to start it back up within a couple of minutes, it cranks but doesn't start. If I leave it to sit for a while (10 minutes or so), it fires back up like nothing was wrong.
Based on what I've read, it could be a sparking issue, something fuel related, battery problem, main relay, or starter. I know for certain that sparking isn't the issue (tested at the workshop). There aren't any known electrical issues, so I think it might be safe to rule out battery problems? No idea how to test main relay, so no comment on that. I've also read that it could be a starter getting too hot, and so giving it some time to cool down fixes the issue (which makes sense given the symptoms).
This problem existed long before I owned this car. To date, I have done the following work on the car:
- oil change
- replaced air filter, PCV valve, spark plugs, and plug wires
- replaced fuel filter and oil filter
- cleaned out EGR ports
In the past, I've had sporadic success with popping the clutch (without running start) and/or gassing it simultaneously. I'm also wondering if replacing the distributor cap & rotor, and/or ignition coil might fix this by any chance?
That's as much information as I can think of for now. Any thoughts on how I might go about diagnosing and fixing this issue?
Thanks in advance!!
I have a slightly annoying problem with my '94 Accord LX. If, after driving around for a bit, I turn off the car and try to start it back up within a couple of minutes, it cranks but doesn't start. If I leave it to sit for a while (10 minutes or so), it fires back up like nothing was wrong.
Based on what I've read, it could be a sparking issue, something fuel related, battery problem, main relay, or starter. I know for certain that sparking isn't the issue (tested at the workshop). There aren't any known electrical issues, so I think it might be safe to rule out battery problems? No idea how to test main relay, so no comment on that. I've also read that it could be a starter getting too hot, and so giving it some time to cool down fixes the issue (which makes sense given the symptoms).
This problem existed long before I owned this car. To date, I have done the following work on the car:
- oil change
- replaced air filter, PCV valve, spark plugs, and plug wires
- replaced fuel filter and oil filter
- cleaned out EGR ports
In the past, I've had sporadic success with popping the clutch (without running start) and/or gassing it simultaneously. I'm also wondering if replacing the distributor cap & rotor, and/or ignition coil might fix this by any chance?
That's as much information as I can think of for now. Any thoughts on how I might go about diagnosing and fixing this issue?
Thanks in advance!!
Last edited by cukaracha; 07-20-2014 at 07:17 PM.
#2
I think you've ruled out everything but fuel. When it won't start, sit in the car, turn the ignition on, and listen for a faint whirring sound from the back: the fuel pump running. It should run for two seconds and shut off.
Last edited by Roader; 07-20-2014 at 06:54 PM. Reason: typo
#3
In any event, that sound is very audible. Two seconds later, silence. Like you said. How should this be interpreted?
Thanks!!
EDIT: I haven't tried that to listen for the sound when the car won't start. So you're saying that I don't hear that noise, then that's probably the problem?
Last edited by cukaracha; 07-20-2014 at 07:19 PM.
#4
The fuel pump primes for about two seconds when you turn the key to the II position, but do not try to start the car. The pump primes around the same time the check engine light does the bulb check.
If that noise is missing when the car will not start, then the problem could be the signal, the relay, wiring, or the fuel pump that is causing the fuel pump not to prime. You would have to do more testing to identify the problem.
If that noise is missing when the car will not start, then the problem could be the signal, the relay, wiring, or the fuel pump that is causing the fuel pump not to prime. You would have to do more testing to identify the problem.
#5
Haven't been able to reproduce the problem so far, but I thought of a couple more symptoms.
The first is more of a one-off: After I cleaned out the EGR ports and put everything back together, the car had a very similar issue trying to start (except it had been off the entire time prior). I can't remember if the fuel pump sound was audible, but I do know that popping the clutch and flooring the gas very briefly got it to start. Never had the same problem again.
Secondly, another symptom is that if I try to start the car repeatedly, the cranking seems to get weaker each time.
Not sure if that information would help but just thought I'd throw it out there.
The first is more of a one-off: After I cleaned out the EGR ports and put everything back together, the car had a very similar issue trying to start (except it had been off the entire time prior). I can't remember if the fuel pump sound was audible, but I do know that popping the clutch and flooring the gas very briefly got it to start. Never had the same problem again.
Secondly, another symptom is that if I try to start the car repeatedly, the cranking seems to get weaker each time.
Not sure if that information would help but just thought I'd throw it out there.
Last edited by cukaracha; 07-21-2014 at 10:28 AM.
#7
Okay, so the issue happened again last night. Basically, no fuel pump priming sound.
Also, I thought the ambient temperature might have something to do with it because on a relatively cool night, the car would start up without any issues. However, when this happened again last night, it was a pretty cold night.
Any thoughts?
Also, I thought the ambient temperature might have something to do with it because on a relatively cool night, the car would start up without any issues. However, when this happened again last night, it was a pretty cold night.
Any thoughts?
#8
Yeah, main relays are notorious for failing when hot. You could 1) verify with a voltmeter and/or 2) throw a new relay at it or 3) reflow the relay's solder joints. Doors #1 and #3 are covered quite nicely at:
How to solder and fix the Main Relay.
How to solder and fix the Main Relay.
Last edited by Roader; 07-29-2014 at 05:06 PM.
#9
Yeah, main relays are notorious for failing when hot. You could 1) verify with a voltmeter and/or 2) throw a new relay at it or 3) reflow the relay's solder joints. Doors #1 and #3 are covered quite nicely at:
How to solder and fix the Main Relay.
How to solder and fix the Main Relay.
Thanks!!
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