Hello,

I'm in the middle of a head gasket job for a 95 Accord 2.2 SOHC and the manual I have gives detailed specs for the head but I'm having trouble finding info regarding block deck specs.

With a straight edge, measuring length wise down the middle from no# 1, to no# 4 cylinders I have a max clearance of .003 at the center between No# 2, and 3 cylinders. A friend who owns a shop says these blocks must be "zero" clearance because of the shim type gaskets used...

My questions,

1), Is the info of "zero" clearance correct concerning block deck specs for the F22?

2), Are there any other head gasket options available on the market that aren't shim type that can handle a not so perfect block surface?

Thanks Everyone!

 

Read the posting rules! I moved to get some responses.

When I did head gasket I found measuring block flatness was not possible (straight edge too long) and took a chance. Still running!

I did have the head shaved flat. I got to redo a Mitsubishi IL4 cylinder head gasket because I failed to have head shaved. Since then (total of 4 head gaskets) I've always had head shaved w/ good results.

Are you absolutely sure your straight edge is perfect? It might be worth trying another if you can borrow one.

I don't know about tolerances for block flatness. Try google "Preventing Repeat Head Gasket Failures". This link has a tolerance of 0.004" for a 4-cylinder head so maybe you're OK. Further searches and reading may provide some additional confirmation.

One thing that was crystal clear to me was that I was not going to remove the engine block to have the block milled flat. Are you prepared to do that?

FWIW, I'm not aware of anyone ever reporting a problem w/ block flatness.

good luck

 

Thank's for the response TexasHonda,

The manual I have states, ".002 max" head warpage measuring multi planes, (mid length, sides, criss-cross, ect). The smallest feeler gauge I have is .0015 and won't pass through the straight edge so the head looks ok although....

I, like you with your Misubishi, I did this job once already. The car ran fine for about a week then the car was returned because of coolant coming out the exhaust. While cold, I cranked the engine over and noticed a good amount of pressure from the radiator so I assumed a severe problem with the head or block had occurred. Once I pulled the head I re measured it's specs which, as I stated earlier are with in limits.

I filled all cylinders with solvent, let sit overnight with only slight leakage into the oil pan, but no solvent into the cooling system so I ruled out any cylinder cracks.

I then measured block deck clearance mentioned in my previous post with the results stated but don't have any specs to compare them with. I'll check the google search you mention and see if there's any results.

Reflecting back on my job, a couple of points I wanted to make are,

1), I re checked my notes and noticed I copied the final torque amount incorrectly. Instead of 78 lbs total, my notes indicate, and I remember torquing only to 72 lbs.

2), I researched this engine's head bolt application and find some have T2Y while others have re-useable bolts. The head bolts on this engine have a "T" stamped on top so I'm not sure if they're T2Y, or re-use type.

If they are T2Y, and with the combination of my error of final torque amount I'm wondering if this is the whole problem?

As far as prepared to pull the block, only If I have to. Talking with my buddy who owns the machine shop, he needs the block completely stripped, just the bare block so I'm looking at a couple of extra days and labor if I go this route.

I'm tempted to try new bolts or ARP studs and see if I can dodge this bullet but facing a possible second come back doesn't look good.

Anyway, if you have any other thoughts they are greatly appreciated!

Thank's.

 

Here is what I found in the manual.......I "thought" the 5th gen 4 cyl head bolts could be re-used.....but that is me

 

The 94 EX manual I have does not indicate that bolts are T2Y or to use new bolts (some folks do). I've never replaced bolts on any I've done, but none were T2Y.

One thing I did on last head gasket that I would do again is to chase the threads w/ a tap to clean them. This helps to allow controlled tightening (no stick/slip). Manual recommends restarting if the bolt "chatters" during tightening.

A better way to torque head bolts is used on Subaru's boxer 4 cyl., where there are two torque tightening steps, followed by a 90 degree bolt tightening w/o a torque spec.

good luck

 

Hello poorman212,

Thank's for the spec's info, this clears all doubts as to using this engine's block as is since clearances fall well with in limits.


Again, thank's poorman!

Hey TexasHonda,

Thank's for the pointers above. Yes, All threads were "chased" and the old bolts, after lube, went in with no problem. I'm thinking my error of incorrect torque was one problem.

One point I didn't mention in my previous posts, this LX Accord's door tag production date indicates 3/94 but the owner informed me the engine was swapped out several years prior with a newer engine.

I didn't mention this earlier as my main concern was only for block deck spec readings but now, with the issue of T2Y type bolts I'm wondering if this was also a contributing factor to my job's failure.
I've ordered new bolts and with the info poorman212 provided on block specs I'll give it another shot.

BTW, the engine installed in this 94 Accord is stamped, F22 B2, is all aluminum w/steel sleeves, and has 2 magnetic crank pick ups which are not connected to the vehicle's harness so I'm not sure of it's production date.

Yes, I'm familiar with the degree torque method and have used it on engines that call for it. I'm not sure if there's any info available for converting the F22's lbs torque method over to degree type applications as I would need the initial lbs torque setting, then the final degree setting but I do favor this method over the conventional lbs to torque.

Thank's for all your input TexasHonda,

Rich.

 

You have an engine from a 96/97 LX or DX. Those two sensors are in the distributor in the 95 engine, so it sounds like all is well with the swap.

 

Hey PAhonda,

Thank's for the info, I'll let the owner know incase of any future repairs.