that is why i stress the issue on inputting the year and model ( at, 5sp, 4dr, i4, v6) in the signature that way we can give members the proper reply without having to waste space asking question that can be answered if they input all the info in the signature

going back to your question you never did specify if car is AT or 5SP..
AT tranny does not have a flywheel. it has a torque convertor with a gear tooth on it and a flex plate , the flex plate bolts onto the the crankshaft with 6 bolts and bolts also onto the torque convertor with 8 , 10mm bolts

5SP tranny have just the flywheel, which bolts on the crankshaft , then the clutch and plate bolt onto the flywheel , the flywheel has tooth gear as well..

so like i said earlier ,, if it is an AT tranny i would look at the flex plate center piece broken off , i have seen a lot of those ,, never seen a flywheel brake except worn teeth on the gear or a broken tooth or 2 ..
so first thing you should do ??? Input all the info we need in your signature so we can answer your question properly and faster

 

Or he can pull the transmission off to get a better look at whats busted.

 

How's this?
(copied from the other thread...)


Flywheel(#3) & clutch(#4&5) from manual tranny in the bottom half of the picture.
Your automatic is like the top picture. Number 7 is the flex plate, but Honda apparently calls it a drive plate. The gear teeth for the starter are actually on the torque converter itself (#6).
In both cases the engine is off the left of the picture. Imagine you're standing at the right-side door...

 

it's a auto trans, thanks alot for the info guys, i work for GM now so saturday i'll be taking the car to the shop and pull the trans out i'll keep u guys updated.

 

guys im going to have the car on a hoist when droping out the tranny, do i need to support the engine or would there still be enough engine mounts to hold, also i cannot leave the car on the hoist can i just put back the front wheels on the hub and roll it out the shop, my co worker told me leave the drive shafts in and and let them flop around other wise i can damage my wheel barings without them on.

 

no need to support the engine ,but make sure to leave in a bolt for the rear mount that goes through the block , just stick it in, put a nut loosely on the other sode so it does not come out i have done it many many times , also take the axles totally out, your bearings will NOT be damaged at all , i have done that a bunch of times ,, but before you put the wheels back on and roll it out you have to reconnect the lower ball joint into the control arm, with the 17 mm castle nut,, then you can put the wheels on and roll it out ,,

 

Wow, I expected the opposite on both things. But Desert has done this stuff more than me.

The engine hangs OK without the mount at the end of the tranny?

Without a preload on the bearing, it's nowhere near as strong as normal. But I guess you won't be taking corners very fast while the tranny is out...

 

Like i said he has to install the bolt at the rear mount through the block and put a nut on the other side to make sure that it does not come out,, Engine is held at the frt by the frt motor mount ( dog-bone ) and the side by the upper left mount by the t-belt cover ,so if you put a bolt through the mount and the block you will have 3 solid places to hold the engine from going anywhere .......
And as for the bearing it will not damage it at all,, all you are doing is to push the car out of the bay ,, no big deal

 

took the tranny out today just like we all thought a broken flex plate, also 1 of the dowell pins are missing could this b the reason it broke? honda wants $100 aftermarket $85 im going to go with after market should be the same.