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I just got done replacing a new rotor on my 95 accord because my old one was warped. I took it for a spin down the road a few times pressing the brakes a few times and came back and the wheel nuts/drive axle nut/rotor is so hot I can't even touch it! So I took the brake pads off and made sure the slider pins slide good and the caliper retracts correctly and the brakes pads aren't to tight in the clips. Everything looked and worked fine so I took it for a spin again and the same thing happened, everything is way to hot??? Or is it normal to have it so hot?? I touched the other side and it seemed just as hot but in my opinion it should not be as hot as it is. I did put back on the original brake pads so maybe I should get a new set? Or would that make any difference? Any advice/things to check or if anybody has had the same problem with a solution let me know, I am stumped, thanks.
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95 Honda Accord LX, 1994 Honda Accord LX', (1994 Honda Accord for parts), 75 Chrysler Cordoba, 62 Chev Lowrider Truck, 1963 impala ss to restore
The wheel should turn w/ some resistance from the contacting, but zero force pads. I would guess 5-20 ft-lbs of torque are necessary to rotate the wheel. Years ago on a Toyota I had the caliper piston corrode due to a bad dust boot. The corrosion caused the caliper piston to extend when braking, but not retract. I had similar or worse problems as you describe. You could feel the drag while driving.
Note, disc brakes get very warm (150-200F is my guess) normally, so you may be mistaking the normal heat level. They are hot enough to prevent touch when stopped after a drive. Wheel nuts are too hot to hold.
See you down the ROW
1994 Accord EX
2003 Acura MDX
2006 Acura TSX
2010 Acura TSX
so.... i work in a tire palce, and some lug nutz get HOT, ive gotten burned just by touching some, so idk if that tell u aanything
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the brakes do get hot, thats how they stop... friction.... heat is a byproduct of friction
also when you do a brake job please replace both side rotors, and both sides brakes... if not your going to have jerking to one side, and the rotor is going to be messed up because the pad is already mated to the other rotor and will make imperfections in the new rotors...
TL;DR: Brakes = hot, replace everything on both sides.
You mention outboardsliderpins are freeand inboard caliper piston is retracting properly.
Did either of the pads show more wear than the other one? If so - there is a problem.
Does the wheel turn freely when raised off the ground and transmission in neutral?
Rotorwarp is from heat (many times when the driver makes a fast dead stop and the hot rotor/pad is left in one place, not allowing the heatto be dissapated). When this happens, try to let the vehicleroll slightly, so as not to trap the hot pad on the rotor in oneplace.
Another condition caused by a hot rotor from fast braking is/are hot spots. Heat tempered "hot spots"formedona rotor,cause a slight jerking when stopping, instead of a slight steering wheel wobble asexperienced with a warped rotor.
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