Wow, that's an expensive fuse box. The ELD is built into the fusebox, so I guess you had to do that.

If the ELD gives bad measurement to the ECU, then the ECU won't properly control the alternator. That in turn gives you incorrect system voltage. Corrosion in the cables won't help either.

 

I have my own obd II and pulled off po685 too, exact same symptoms,
So I will be checking the battery connections closely I have an 04 honda accord 2.4 auto, I`m` thinking it happens when the air compressor cycles,
anyhow will post what I find too, any additional tips would be appreciated

 

Check dirty/loose/corroded connection anywhere including at the ELD. No guarantee that your problem is identical to his, but check all that stuff out & let us know if you find something.

 

As everyone was pointing to, it turned out to be a current limiting problem of sorts, If my air compressor kicked in or any other load the electrical would drop out on the radio and other peripherals. I tried to move my drivers seat and the car stumbled on the highway....so closer look for corrosion etc..battery post on positive was nice and tight, but after removing it I found oxidation etc,, changed the clamp and viola , problem gone...thanks for the help pointing me in the right direction, a garage mAy have changed the post clamp,,, and the ecu and pcm just to be sure...LOL

CrabbyR

 

Always check your battery anytime you get a code, I worked on my bother in laws 09 and he had the same exact symptoms except he also had a cylinder misfire code as well. After replacing the battery which indicated it was good via its little indicator the problems have never come back. I also installed those felt pads a lube they always try to sell you and we always say no we dont need it, well we need it and should clean those terminals before the start of any cold season or 40k miles in warm weather.

 

Good advice.

The little eyeball thingie on the battery simply says the battery is full of fluid. It can be low on charge, it can have unbalanced cells, or it can have corroded posts. That little viewport thing can't tell the whole story.

 

hello
My 05 Accord gives me the exact same problem. THis first happened when I was driving the freeway and just pulled up both the front windows. The same happened one more time, the MIL came up and then no issues. I closed the gas cap (just a try) restarted and it was all fine. Next day the issues restarted- took to a local mechanic and he read the same code and deleted/reset the code. Ever since I have been careful, but some fear in mind as to what will happen again. Today I felt like I experienced the same thing- but not sure (no MIL or any others in the dashboard). Still I took the car to the local mechanic and he checked if any codes- and there were none. He advised me to take to a dealer if this problem happens again and told he is not an expert in electrical parts and does not want to take a chance.
Can I get a few suggestions?
I know dealers are expensive, but do you recommend a dealer or some other shops like a firestone or Midas (I live in Toronto)
With no problems showing up today, would you recommend still driving the car or would it be better to take to a dealer straightaway to prevent further damages
thanks much for your time.

 

See if your VIN is covered under this Honda safety recall for the fuse box which may cause a no-start or stalling condition:

dvpatel.homelinux.com/forumfiles/SB/A05-014.PDF

Edit: Since you are in Toronto, you might check with the dealer to see if there is a similar Honda Canada safety recall for your Accord.

 

The P0685 code is supposed to be for a failed PCM. Don't have that Helm book any more, so I don't know what the troubleshooting tree looks like for that code.

 

So- after the last P0685 I decided to take the car to the Honda dealer (Ideal Honda in Toronto). After an hour check up the technician felt that the relays need replacement. I asked him how confident he is on this and per him it is 80% and if this does not work, he wanted to replace the computer itself which parts itself is $1000 plus labor. The relays were replaced and overall invoice of $330. The car ran fine for quite some days and last week I had the same issue. but no Check engine light came. this happened once after quite a long drive (2 hours or so). I am now confused where to take my car to? Just not getting the confidence that I got the right diagnosis the first time. Any help is highly appreciated.