I have a 98 accord LX V6 which has taken to stalling. It often will start back up right away, but other times takes 10 - 20 minutes. When it wont start, it also locks the shifter in park. Dealer can't diagnose. Any ideas?

 

When it doesn't start, does the starter crank the engine?

Can you make it stall by wiggling the key?

Check with a dealer to see whether a recall has been performed to replace the ignition switch.

 

Engine will crank, but won't start. Wiggling the key does not change the situation, nor does using another key.

The ignition switch has been replaced.

 

Just to learn what's going on, try this when you start or re-start.

Turn the key to ON but not immediately to START. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds then stop. Listen for that; you'll have to have radio & blowers turned off because it isn't very loud. That happens together with the check-engine light bulb-check.

What you're looking for is the situation where the CEL comes on properly for it's 2-second bulb check, but the fuel pump doesn't run. If that corresponds with the no-start problem, then it might be the main relay. The known problem with those is bad solder joints on the circuit board. If you're good with a soldering iron they just need to be re-melted.

If the non-start problem corresponds to the CEL not coming on, then it still might be a bad ignition switch. The recall gives you a new switch but it's the same kind, not improved or redesigned.

You or the dealer could also chase down the wiring back to the fuel pump. Dirty/loose/corroded connections?? Loose ground screws?? Seems like the dealer should have checked that stuff, maybe they have already ruled that out.

 

I will check those things, but why would that cause the car to lock in park when it is in a non-starting state? When the car won't start, it uniformly wont come out of park. Once it starts it comes out as normal.

 

Power from IG1 is what is needed for the interlock. So if the key switch is bad/not making proper contact, then power is not making it to the interlock. Just a thought.

 

Poorman's got a good point; maybe there's already enough information to blame it on a bad ignition switch. I was giving you some differences between a bad ignition switch vs bad main relay.

I kinda get caught up in trying to give the background knowledge...

 

The dealer put a new ignition switch in about a year ago, but I suppose it could have been a bad part. I am reasonably handy - I assume I can replace the part myself. Should I bother getting one from the dealer or just go to the auto parts store? It appears like a $60 part online, so I am not opposed to throwing one in just to see if it helps.

 

Checking it with a multimeter might help, if it has flaky continuity when switched on.

I think the recall/replacement was not a re-designed or improved switch. They're still prone to failure.

 

Jim, I'm all with giving background info or "where I'm going with this".....

We all read things differently, that is what makes this forum work. I'm the new guy and have been wrong before.

I read it like this: Car dies at random...when it dies the shifter won't release. What is in common here.......

So I jump to the switch....as stated been wrong before.

OP- When the car acts up, do as suggested....listen for the fuel pump to run/prime in the "on" position. With a volt meter be sure the BLK/YEL wire to the dist/coil has 12v to ground.