Hello all, and let me just go ahead and say thanks in advance! Ok, so here's the rundown...

About two months ago, my 94 accord (auto trans) started having some problems...it started out as very minor hesitation whenever l would slow down or stop, and pull out again...over the next couple weeks, it got progressively worse, both in frequency of hesitation, and the length...after about week 3, it got to the point to where it would not only idle irradically, but it would climb the tach at about the 3rd of the normal speed (throttle open, in neutral), spitting and sputtering the entire time, before finally killing out when it hit about 4k...no check engine light or codes thrown...as it turns out, it was a bad pump, which l got replaced.

I've only had the car back a few weeks since then...and starting last week, it would die after starting. No sputters, no hesitation during driving, still no check engine light...the kicker though, l've noticed, is that it only acts up after either parking and being turned off on an incline, or parking shortly after going up or down an incline. It will idle for about 3-5 seconds before dying, but if l started it up, feathered the gas, and threw it in drive, it would be fine. No dying at red lights or while driving, even on inclines/declines...until today. It died in my child's daycare parking lot three times, made it about a mile and a half up the road, died two MORE times (this was flat highway travel), until l finally was able to make it to a parking lot. I let it sit a couple hours, went back, it fired right up, and made it back here (just a couple mile trip). Now the parking lot for my apartment complex is a very steep uphill grade, probably 30-40 degree pitch, but when l try to re-create the scenario, it runs fine. Now the having to start it and hammer it isn't so much a problem for me, but with as many times as it died today, l don't want to risk getting stuck taking my kids home, as it takes about 2 hours...anyone have any ideas?

Oh and also, my car will die as if its out of gas if the needle gets a little above a quarter tank...?

 

Are the maintenance items up to date like the distributor cap, distributor rotor, and the spark plugs?

Look at the common DIY thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Open the link to checking engine codes and let us know if the check engine light or the d4 light flashes codes.

Do you have a timing light? A volt mete or a 12V test light?

 

Yes...the first pump failure, me and my brother and dad tried process of elimination (since there weren't any codes)...changed the spark plugs, wires, ignition control module, rotor button, coil pack, and the fuel filter

Unfortunately, no timing light or meters...we have very few tools, just the basic wrenches and sockets and such

 

I should have mentioned, the fuel pump was replaced by a local mechanic (great at his work, l was good friends with his son in high school)....we just replaced what we could, with what little tools we have

 

You really need to determine if this is a lack of spark problem or lack of fuel.

If you have one of the old spark plugs, you can try to test for spark. The tegger.com site shows how to do a spark test.

Turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Listen for the fuel pump to turn on for about two seconds while the check engine light does the bulb check. It is a faint buzzing/whirling sound that comes from the back seat, so turn off the radio, blower, etc... and listen carefully. Let us know if that sound is present or missing when the car won't start.

Another simple test to try is to get the car started. See if you can get the car to stall out by shaking the key in the ignition.

I would disconnect the battery then clean and tighten all ends of both battery cables.

In that common diy thread i mentioned before, the online shop manuals link has a honda-tech link that has a 94 shop manual. It will show you the locations of all the grounds in the engine bay. Clean any ground that you can find.

A volt meter is pretty inexpensive at most chain stores. You only need to test for voltage and continuity to ground on most car circuits.

 

Alright, since it seems to be running ok (for the moment) l'm going to try and take it to my brother's in the morning, and we'll hit that punchlist, and l'll let ya know what happens...thanks again!

 

A likely solution would be to replace the ignition switch...This is a common issue on Hondas.

 

I'll be sure to check all the electrical...however, even though l'm not mechanically inclined by any means, l'm still skeptical about it being an electrical/ignition issue...simply because of the lack of codes, and the idle and power band is as smooth as the day she came out the factory, no misses or sputters at all...it just dies suddenly, and at random, not all the time