First Post, history that has led to my current problem Please bear with me. I recently had a hole in my Rack and Pinnion power steering hose, went to replace hose and ended up cross threading and breaking the R&P. Car was sitting out front my house during Hurricane Mathew and ended up having high water get inside car up to my seats Exhaust pipe was submerged, pushed car out and let it dry, I could not run car because of the cracked R&P. I ended up pushing car up in driveway so it was elevated for water to drain out. I had to go out of town for three weeks so it sat for period of time. I used a wet vac and heat gun to dry out the inside carpet and hung damp rids inside to get rid of moisture before I left. I changed R&P last weekend along with both the tie rod ends. Started car for first time and it still had water that blew out the exhaust. I have a SRS and ABS light, and the engine RPM cycles continuously between 1000-2700. I drove car around neighborhood to get my steering as straight as possible (needs an alignment and State inspection). So I didn't check for any codes but read that IAC valve is common problem. So I changed the valve and cleaned all the passages including removing intake manifold. Put it back together and could not get car to start, antifreeze was dripping from bottom so I took it back apart and had antifreeze in the manifold. All I could think is possibly the seal on IAC did not seat tight allowing the antifreeze to enter the other two ports. I cleaned back up, and this time along with the seal I used RED RTV thin coat to seal this valve. I initially used a FELPRO gasket from Advance Auto that I now am going to replace with a new Honda gasket (had to order this along with the hard coolant hose that attaches to AIC valve and engine block). So any chance I may have damaged anything with the coolant getting into intake? And was I ok to use RTV along with the AIC valve gasket, I hope to hell that this was the problem with the antifreeze and not a cracked housing. I gently used an impact to remove the screws on the old IAC valve but pretty sure I didn't damage the TB housing. I know this is too long a post, and appogogize just hope that once I get the new factory gasket and put it back together that she will start! Anything I might have missed?

 

A few things in play.

Is the "surge" all the time or only when the car starts to get to op temp?

 

I believe it started shortly starting.

 

Then it is continuous.

 

Since this started before removing the intake I'm going with something still in the idle control. So be sure the coolant is full and no trapped air....Bleeding one of these is not as easy as some of the older ones.

I like to set the heat to max (turn the key to on so the electric motor will open the heater control valve) then turn the blower motor off. Fill the rad and put the cap on ONLY TO THE FIRST CLICK - the idea is not to let the system build pressure. Then you can start it and let it run until the cooling fans cycle...keeping an eye on the temp gauge.

So I should have asked first about the coolant level. Low coolant/air in the system can "confuse" the idle control system.

 

Where was the antifreeze dripping exactly?

If water was that high, did you do an oil change to make sure there is not water in the oil pan?

There aren't many places where coolant can get into the intake. I'd recommend getting a radiator pressure tester as a loaner tool from you local auto parts store. Pressurize the system to about 16 psi when engine is cold and try to find where you have leaks.

Not sure where you got the replacement IAC valve, but I'd keep the original. Too often we see aftermarket parts not fit right or do not work out of the box.

Do you have a scanner/code reader? Can it read live data from the engine?

 

I did replace the oil and filter before I changed the valve and I'm assuming the gasket must not of sealed the coolant chamber and that is why I had coolant in the intake laying in the intake manifold and it started to leak through the TB to manifold FELPRO gasket that is shown in the picture. I'm thinking I'm fortunate that the engine did not turn over but it was enough turning to allow coolant to accumulate in the bottom of the manifold. I looked at the oil and don't believe I got any in the there. Question is the tube that is immediately to the right of the manifold I assume is the hose that goes to PVC valve, I pulled that and it didn't look like any coolant had made it that far. Also, I did save the old IAC but thinking letting the new gasket and adding a thin coating of RTV will keep the coolant out of the throttle passage where it does not belong, any problem with using RTV here? When I removed the valve it was pretty built up with deposits as was the manifold, I did order from the local Honda dealership a new hose that attaches to the bottom nipple of the AIC as mine had a small tear and also a replacement gasket for the TB to Intake MAnifold. They won't be in until Tuesday so have a couple days before I tackle it again. This is my sons car, and he shipped off for the Navy last week so not in a rush. I appreciate the input Poorman and PAHonda.

 

My opinion is to use only the gasket and no RTV. The only place I've seen RTV required on a Honda gasket is on 4 areas of the valve cover gasket.

Fel-pro usually makes good gaskets. I'd suggest making sure the mating surface on the bottom of the throttle body is clean where the gasket sits. Also make sure the surface is smooth without gouges. I can't remember if the bottom of the throttle body has grooves or is perfectly flat. If flat, I've used fine grit sandpaper, like 1500 or 2000 grit, on a flat block to clean up a metal surface.

 

I used RTV with the AIC valve gasket because I believe that is where the coolant bleed over into the other port allowing the coolant to pool in the intake. I'm assuming If the gasket doesn't encase the coolant port I will have bleed over again. I don't want to have to replace TB if I don't have to.

This car is beginning to rack up $$$ in neglected upkeep. I've replaced both CV joints, battery, alternator and serpentine belt, R&P, brake pads and rotors, the only other major thing that I don't know if has been changed is the timing belt.

 

PAHonda, there shouldn't be any coolant enter the intake manifold correct? I could reuse another FELPRO gasket to mount the TB to Intake but need to make sure the coolant isn't bypassing the TB where it's not supposed to be. I did connect the coolant hoses to the correct ports, I just wanted to mention this.