Can anyone please help me out with instructions on replacing the front motor mount next to the radiator? I didn't have too much trouble replacing the passenger sidemount (next to the timing belt), but I can't find much info online about the front mount. Luckily, the rear mount doesn't need replacing because I have no idea how to access that one. I have a Chilton repair manual but it barelymentions anything about the mounts for the 3.0 engine. I raised the car upusing ramps and I am able to support the engine onits oil pan using a piece of wood on a floor jack. I'm not sure if that is the proper way to support the engine but it seems like that is the only info I have been able to find online.

The main problem I am having is finding a way to remove one of the bolts on the base of the mount that attaches to the frame. There are fourbolts and I am able to remove 3 of them using a 14mm socket (1/2in drive),extension, and breaker bar. I can't figure out how to get access tothe last bolt next to the exhaust pipe. If I work from the top, do I need to remove the radiator in order to get enough room to work? If so, what is the procedure for that? Is there any way to access the bolt from underneath by possibly using an offset box wrench? Another issue is the piece that connects the mount to the engine itself.The 17mm nut on the top of the mountcan beeasily removed but it seems that the lowertwo bolts of thethree 14mm bolts attaching this pieceto the engine can only be accessed underneath by a box wrench. Is there a way to get enough leverage to loosen those bolts without having to resort to banging on the wrench with a hammer?

By the way, I am replacing these mounts with OEM genuine Honda parts that I ordered from a Honda dealership in California. The three Honda dealers here in Las Vegas wanted about $112EACH for the front and side mounts. Thedealership in California charged $114 total forBOTH mounts, plus $13 for shipping which took only 2 days. Not sure if i'm allowed to post info on this dealership, but you can always email me if you want.

Anyway, sorry for the long post but I tried to provide as many details as possible. I would really appreciate any and all help regarding this repair. I have only been an Accord owner for 6 months,it's my first Honda and I love this car.

 

This is a good post and Im interested to see what member comes up with the correct answer...
You might ask DesertHonda if he has some ideas. PM him about it...

WheelBrokerAng [sm=americanasmiley.gif]

 

I'm not familiar with the V6 layout, but if you can, take a picture and we'll see what we can do.

 

I did the best I could with these pictures but I'm not sure if they are clear enough because I had to resize them in order to upload them.

[IMG]local://upfiles/15458/557B65A089CE483E85FDCA0B5A37FFDD.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/15458/70F7E34ABF4C41B7AD7CF5956532323C.jpg[/IMG]

 

Keep us posted. I need to change one+ on mine. Stuck on night shift so don’t know which one yet. Good Luck!

 

Hi Everyone, I have an update regarding my front motor mount repair. I’m sure that somebody out there has replaced their motor mounts at one time or another and I was very surprised that no one responded with any tips or suggestions regarding the issues I originally came across. I was even more surprised that I was unable to find a DIY write-up in this forum or elsewhere online in the first place.

Here are step-by-step instructions of what I did to replace the mount. There is probably a more better, correct, and proper way to do this, but it worked for me and I would like to describe myexperience. I’m sorry that I didn’t take any pictures of the procedure, but hopefully this may help out someone in the future.

[ol]Elevate the car. I used car ramps but you could also probably jack up the car and put it on jack stands.
Support the engine under the oil pan using a floor jack with a piece of wood to distribute the weight evenly. I used a 6 inch piece of two-by-four. Do not use the floor jack directly on the oil pan.
Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield which is attached by 3 bolts. I used a 12mm combination wrench. This allows better access to the rear bolt that I was originally having so much trouble with.
Remove the arm that attaches the motor mount to the engine. There is a 17mm nut that attaches the arm to the top of the motor mount. It was on there pretty tight so I used a breaker bar along with a 17mm socket and extension. Next remove the three 14mm bolts that attach the arm to the engine. I used an offset 14mm box wrench to remove the top one. The bottom two can be accessed underneath. I was able to do this by double wrenching it because a 14mm wrench is very short and it is impossible to get enough leverage otherwise. (Double wrenching is when you connect the box end of a combination wrench to the open end of another combination wrench which doubles the length and gives you more leverage.) This is probably not a smart thing to do because the tools can slip or even break and may cause damage to your car, or worse, bodily injury to yourself. So be very careful and do this at your own risk!!!
Remove the 4 bolts that attach the motor mount to the frame. I used a 14mm socket, extension(s), and breaker bar. The rear bolt next to the exhaust required a universal joint but there is enough room after removing the heat shield as described in step 3.
Disconnect the vacuum line underneath the mount. I turned the mount on its side to do this and some of the brown liquid from the mount leaked out onto the frame and my garage floor. I recommend that you place a towel underneath before disconnecting the line.
Installation is the reverse. The only tricky part was aligning the arm to the engine in order to install the 3 bolts. I did this by slightly jacking up the engine. Once I lined up the holes, I was able to easily screw the bolts in by hand then tighten them using the offset box wrench for the top bolt and double wrench technique for the bottom ones. [/ol]

I am pretty much a novice at repairing my own car and it took me approximately 4 hours to complete the job. Of course I took my time and had several breaks. It really did help to have a decent tool set and floor jack. I’m so glad to have saved a few hundred dollars off the $485 quote that I got from the dealer. I can’t wait to tell my regular mechanic who, although is less expensive than the Honda dealership, still overcharges me. The guy laughed at me and mockingly wished me good luck when I told him I was going to attempt the repair myself. I guess the last laugh is on him.

 

Last laugh is usually on the guy who laff's last..did I say that right ?

WheelBrokerAng

 

Great post. I just replaced all five engine/transaxle mounts. The two small mounts on the transaxle were OK but while I was there…. It took 4.5 hours to do them all. Would have been just 4 but I had to go back and hook the vacuum line up on the back mount I left off.[:@] It was the last one too. The hydraulic fluid was still in the front and back mounts but the diaphragm was torn and leaking on both. The passenger side mount rubber was all ripped up.

On the front and back mounts I removed the engine bracket (14mm) from the engine first then the mounts from the frame(14mm). If you have a long 14mm straight ratcheting wrench it will help on the front engine bracket. On the back I remove the Oxygen Sensor Wire bracket (17mm bolt) to give my hand some room to move. If you have air then use an air ratchet to remove the bracket bolts (14mm) on the engine. I checked the Vacuum solenoid and the metal/rubber lines that went to the front and back mounts and theylooked fine. Last I torqued all the 17mm to 40 after the car was level and the engine was only supported by the mounts.

Not a bad job for a newbie but man what a difference. Let me know if anyone needs some pictures of the mounts. I have a nice collection on the floor. Now for the P0401 EGR ports!

Thanks HAF

 

Great posting! This was just what I needed. I've been searching this topicfor a couple of days.

 

I have a bunch of socket sets. I used a 14mm socket with a flex 1/2" then a 6" extension and then another 1/2" flex then a 12" extension.

I had it removed with no problems. I hope this helps other with this problem.

I would post a picture if I could.