new master switch, but driver window wont work?
#1
12-07-2016, 03:21 PM
new master switch, but driver window wont work?
my car is an 03 accord LX V6 coupe,
my original master window switch had broken buttons that were loose, so i bought a new master switch from honda.
after putting the new one on, everything worked except the drivers side window did'nt work at all and you only just hear a click sound when pressing the button.
i started troubleshooting it, the fuses and relay are good,
the wires of the switch harness looked good, only weird thing is that there was a jumper wire on the wires there from the previous owner, it jumped the white wire over so its connected to a black ground wire, and the white wire has something to do with the door locks, but i have no problem with the door locks and so i guess its fine to leave that as it is?
i was testing stuff with a test light, probing the backs of the wire terminals, and the green wire with white stripe and the yellow wire both light the test light up, and when probing the red wire with the black stripe while pressing the window down button, it lights the test light when pressing the down button, but all of the other wires did'nt light up the test light at all ?, and i did this while the ignition key was in the on position at (II).
i also pulled the rubber boot to expose the wiring between the door hinge area and looked at them, and they seemed good, and i wiggled them around as i tried the window switch and did'nt do anything.
then i tried to test the window motor to see if it operates or not, and i did what the helms shop manual steps said, to unplug the 6P plug from the motor, and to connect direct battery power to the terminals 1 & 4, (+ & -), so i did that by clipping my alligator clip test leads to the jumper cable clamps of my portable jump-box, and clipped a skinny nail at the ends of each of the alligator clips of the test leads, and put those in the holes on the plug, and turned the ON switch of the jumpbox ON, but it did'nt do anything at all or even make a sound ?, and i think i did it all correct as far as how it said to test it ?, but it still seems weird that it says to connect to the disconnected plug instead of to the motor itself to test if the motor operates or not ???
if i did do that right, then i guess my motor is the problem ?
i was thinking if i wanted to confirm that i did that test the right way, i could take the door panel of the passenger side off and test the window motor of the passenger side ?, since the passenger side window works when pressing the switch button, so means it should go up or down when testing the motor on that one, therefore i would know i did the driver test right, and know i need a driver side motor.
after the buttons of my original old switch were broken, i still was using it with the buttons removed from it, and i used a skinny metal stick to put through the slot in the circuit board of the switch and slide the little white thing up or down to operate the window, but i usually had to look straight down with a flashlight to just line up the stick to the slider thing, but sometimes i would be just sticking the stick in there while driving, just trying to guess and go by feel, then later the driver window would'nt even work using the stick method either ?, but pass. did, but i was thinking there could be a possibility that i could of shorted something out by sticking that metal stick in there so much ?, around the circuit board and those other parts inside ?, or maybe shorted out the motor for the driver side doing that ???
other than that, i think it would just end of being something in the wiring, cause it seems like there should of been more of them lighting up the test light when probing all of them ?, or maybe putting a jumper wire from one wire to another would make the driver window work ?, cause i have seen lot of people online doing stuff like that and got it working afterwards ?, like jumping the white/green wire to black ground wire, etc...
next i was going to do more wire testing, more in depth, going by the steps in the helms manual,
but i wanted to get people's opinions or feedback on what they might think could possibly be causing it not to work with a new switch ???, and can give me any guidance on what to try next ???, thanks
my original master window switch had broken buttons that were loose, so i bought a new master switch from honda.
after putting the new one on, everything worked except the drivers side window did'nt work at all and you only just hear a click sound when pressing the button.
i started troubleshooting it, the fuses and relay are good,
the wires of the switch harness looked good, only weird thing is that there was a jumper wire on the wires there from the previous owner, it jumped the white wire over so its connected to a black ground wire, and the white wire has something to do with the door locks, but i have no problem with the door locks and so i guess its fine to leave that as it is?
i was testing stuff with a test light, probing the backs of the wire terminals, and the green wire with white stripe and the yellow wire both light the test light up, and when probing the red wire with the black stripe while pressing the window down button, it lights the test light when pressing the down button, but all of the other wires did'nt light up the test light at all ?, and i did this while the ignition key was in the on position at (II).
i also pulled the rubber boot to expose the wiring between the door hinge area and looked at them, and they seemed good, and i wiggled them around as i tried the window switch and did'nt do anything.
then i tried to test the window motor to see if it operates or not, and i did what the helms shop manual steps said, to unplug the 6P plug from the motor, and to connect direct battery power to the terminals 1 & 4, (+ & -), so i did that by clipping my alligator clip test leads to the jumper cable clamps of my portable jump-box, and clipped a skinny nail at the ends of each of the alligator clips of the test leads, and put those in the holes on the plug, and turned the ON switch of the jumpbox ON, but it did'nt do anything at all or even make a sound ?, and i think i did it all correct as far as how it said to test it ?, but it still seems weird that it says to connect to the disconnected plug instead of to the motor itself to test if the motor operates or not ???
if i did do that right, then i guess my motor is the problem ?
i was thinking if i wanted to confirm that i did that test the right way, i could take the door panel of the passenger side off and test the window motor of the passenger side ?, since the passenger side window works when pressing the switch button, so means it should go up or down when testing the motor on that one, therefore i would know i did the driver test right, and know i need a driver side motor.
after the buttons of my original old switch were broken, i still was using it with the buttons removed from it, and i used a skinny metal stick to put through the slot in the circuit board of the switch and slide the little white thing up or down to operate the window, but i usually had to look straight down with a flashlight to just line up the stick to the slider thing, but sometimes i would be just sticking the stick in there while driving, just trying to guess and go by feel, then later the driver window would'nt even work using the stick method either ?, but pass. did, but i was thinking there could be a possibility that i could of shorted something out by sticking that metal stick in there so much ?, around the circuit board and those other parts inside ?, or maybe shorted out the motor for the driver side doing that ???
other than that, i think it would just end of being something in the wiring, cause it seems like there should of been more of them lighting up the test light when probing all of them ?, or maybe putting a jumper wire from one wire to another would make the driver window work ?, cause i have seen lot of people online doing stuff like that and got it working afterwards ?, like jumping the white/green wire to black ground wire, etc...
next i was going to do more wire testing, more in depth, going by the steps in the helms manual,
but i wanted to get people's opinions or feedback on what they might think could possibly be causing it not to work with a new switch ???, and can give me any guidance on what to try next ???, thanks
#4
12-08-2016, 08:59 PM
Make sure you are testing the correct wires. The wiring diagram for the motor is showing pin 1 as red/yel and pin 4 as red/blk.
Pin 4 gets power when you hit the window up (pin 1 ground). Pin 1 gets power for window down on the switch (pin 4 ground).
Pin 4 gets power when you hit the window up (pin 1 ground). Pin 1 gets power for window down on the switch (pin 4 ground).
#5
12-10-2016, 05:23 AM
when you say "pin", does that mean one of the wire colors basically?, and where it connects to the terminal in the back of the harness plug ?
also, i thought you meant pin 1 & 4 on the back of the plug that plugs into the window master switch ?, not the one that plugs in the motor ? i have a picture of the plug that plugs into the motor, i will post it
also, i thought you meant pin 1 & 4 on the back of the plug that plugs into the window master switch ?, not the one that plugs in the motor ? i have a picture of the plug that plugs into the motor, i will post it
#6
12-10-2016, 06:29 AM
nevermind, i realised that pic i took is'nt on my computer, and is on my phone, but i looked at it, and it shows same as you mentioned :
1 = red/yel 2 = i can't make it out? 3 = orange
4 = red/blk 5 = lite grn 6 = red/wht
1 = red/yel 2 = i can't make it out? 3 = orange
4 = red/blk 5 = lite grn 6 = red/wht
#7
12-10-2016, 06:41 AM
and when i tested the window motor at the plug with battery power, i connected my test leads with small alligator clips to the big cable clamps off my portable battery jumpbox, and then clipped a small nail at the end of the alligator clips of the test leads, so they would fit in the holes of the plug for the motor, and i turned on the jumpbox to put power to the cables, and the motor did'nt do anything?, and i went by the instructions from the helms manual, and did what it said for where to hook pos. or neg. to which wire terminal.
and i just really wanted to confirm that i did test it right ?, so i can get on with troubleshooting my window problem, and feel good on knowing if my motor is good or bad ? so i know if i need another one or not ?
the other weird thing is when i have tried testing for voltage at the wires going to the window switch harness plug, it does'nt show voltage at a couple of the wires, in which the instructions from the helms says they supposed to show voltage present ?
i use a test light and does'nt light up on certain ones, but i have also tried with a multimeter and still no voltage, one was red/wht and one of the blk ground wires, both did'nt light the test light up ? but the grn/wht and yel did have voltage, like they supposed to, and i don't think any others had voltage either?
and i tested with car ignition on and running and with harness plugged into switch
and i just really wanted to confirm that i did test it right ?, so i can get on with troubleshooting my window problem, and feel good on knowing if my motor is good or bad ? so i know if i need another one or not ?
the other weird thing is when i have tried testing for voltage at the wires going to the window switch harness plug, it does'nt show voltage at a couple of the wires, in which the instructions from the helms says they supposed to show voltage present ?
i use a test light and does'nt light up on certain ones, but i have also tried with a multimeter and still no voltage, one was red/wht and one of the blk ground wires, both did'nt light the test light up ? but the grn/wht and yel did have voltage, like they supposed to, and i don't think any others had voltage either?
and i tested with car ignition on and running and with harness plugged into switch
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