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Fighting rust on aging car/Prepping car for touch-up paint

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  #1  
Old 03-15-2012, 11:15 PM
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Default Fighting rust on aging car/Prepping car for touch-up paint

Well, after replacing just about everything under the sun on my car I have relaxed a little. For about three whole seconds, then I got to thinking about all the rust pellets on my car. (Pictures to come later)

Well, I took some fine steel wool and very carefully brushed off the rust and now I'm at the point where I don't know what to do. I've heard conflicting reports, some people say to prime it other people say to I can just dab the touch-up paint on there.

Thoughts?

Also, the rear doors have some pea-sized spots all over the place.

Aside from keeping my car inside is there anything I can do to prevent these?

Also I have significant rust on the bottom edge of my passenger side rear door. It's surface rust but I have to fix it sometime this summer or it might start eating through come next winter. So much so it's deteriorated this metallic-esque/rubber strip that hangs at the bottom of the door.(Pictures coming tomorrow)
 
  #2  
Old 03-16-2012, 12:34 AM
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I would read the directions on the can. The touch-up paint should recommend what to do when painting over a scratch vs bare metal.
 
  #3  
Old 03-16-2012, 09:38 AM
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I like to use the Rust Converter spray and metal primer before spray painting. This is more of a repair to prevent rusting rather than cosmetic repair, so perfect paint is not the goal.

good luck
 
  #4  
Old 03-16-2012, 11:19 AM
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X2 - Rust converter to prevent the rust from coming right back.
 
  #5  
Old 03-16-2012, 03:08 PM
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Yes, if any rust is left, it will come right back. If you can't get it all, use the converter.
 
  #6  
Old 03-16-2012, 03:25 PM
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Rust converter is little more than phosphoric acid. I have used a weak solution of this for rust conversion and it works quite well. Turns it black like the rattle can stuff. Best method is to remove the rust, treat it w/ converter, then put a waterproof coating on it. Most rattle can paints are not waterproof -i.e. water will penetrate the surface and start the rusting all over again. I will be using an epoxy-based sealer over bare metal on an upcoming repaint on a 92 ex with lots of body rot. Heard this works to stop rust for good.
 
  #7  
Old 03-16-2012, 04:39 PM
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x 2 rust converter, that sounds exactly what I need for this rear door. Where can I get some?

Here's some of the damage. It's mild, but what really worries me is some rust I found under the vehicle. I'm not sure what it is, I marked it in this picture. It looks apart of the steering/suspension. Is this the sway bar?

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/6...38215a2a_b.jpg



Lining that's rusted off:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7037/6...5a195865_b.jpg

Specks of rust on the door.[I like to stop things before they start... ]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/6...173f8d14_b.jpg

Rear Bottom-edge of door:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/6...a23b3c74_b.jpg
 

Last edited by Hondahonda; 03-16-2012 at 04:55 PM.
  #8  
Old 03-16-2012, 06:39 PM
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Yes, that is the anti-sway bar. It's a solid bar, so should be easy to repair. Probably surface rust. It can be disconnected and removed for access.

good luck
 
  #9  
Old 03-18-2012, 12:48 AM
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Well, I checked out my other driver's side rear door it's in a little better shape. What I thought was a lining was actually the metal lip on the bottom of the door.

Rust is eating away the whole lip on the passenger side rear door! I want to remove the rust and stop it, so I picked up some rustoleum with rust converter and it describes it exactly as you said it "converts rust to black paintable surface" Although I am still worried it's not going to enough to save the door.

I've seen scotty kilmer use some 3m liquid weatherstripping as an instant seal. If I get the rust to stop(dubious that's even possible) would this be overkill? Seems like an easy way to make a fast and special seal wherever you want it.
 
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