P1457 on a 1998 honda accord 4cyl. need help!
#31
Since you have a "spare car" around, you will need to "dive in" and see what is up.
There are a number of things it could be....the tank, the fuel lines, purge/shut/canister. I was just going for what I would call the most common failures that trip the 1457. In the end, there is no telling what those iron jawed termites might have gotten into.
When under there, is there any signs of fuel leaking....wet lines, wet areas, ect?
There are a number of things it could be....the tank, the fuel lines, purge/shut/canister. I was just going for what I would call the most common failures that trip the 1457. In the end, there is no telling what those iron jawed termites might have gotten into.
When under there, is there any signs of fuel leaking....wet lines, wet areas, ect?
More likely, I'll drop the tank/rear sub frame, and replumb the fuel and brake lines at that time, as it'll be more open in that area to get at stuff. This will be the 5th or 6th car that I've replaced steel lines on, so it's not like it's virgin territory for me. Well that and I already have an idea of what I'm up against since I've already done my wife's car.
#32
Well, I thought I'd put an end to my 1457 problem, granted it's 4.5 months later. I ended up dropping the rear subframe out from under it (wasn't as bad as it's made out to be), and changed the fuel tank (I bought it last year). On my car, the rear seam lip was leaking in 2 places. With the pump out, you could see rust on the inside of the tank in those 2 spots as well.
Replacing the fuel tank turned off my CEL, and no codes are present. I didn't replace any lines or fuel hoses, although I did replace a short piece of brake line (LR), and hose, as it was rotted out at the fitting.
In my case, getting the old screws that held the pump/sending unit in place was the 2nd hardest job of the entire job. The first or really hardest part of the job was dealing with the bottom of the strut thru bolt, as it rusted in place to the steel bushing inside the rubber strut bushing. I had to cut it out to get it apart, and I replaced the bushing with 1 from a Toyota that I had here, along with a new 10.9 M10 bolt, and reused the special Honda nut.
There were some things I had to watch for, and disassemble differently, as everything I had seen on doing the job, were disc brake equipped, while mine has drums, and as such requires total disassembly of the drum brakes. The parking brake cable was kind of threaded thru the backing plate (held in place by 2 M6 screws).
Anyway, I thought I'd report what I found regarding my 1457 code, and it's fix.
Replacing the fuel tank turned off my CEL, and no codes are present. I didn't replace any lines or fuel hoses, although I did replace a short piece of brake line (LR), and hose, as it was rotted out at the fitting.
In my case, getting the old screws that held the pump/sending unit in place was the 2nd hardest job of the entire job. The first or really hardest part of the job was dealing with the bottom of the strut thru bolt, as it rusted in place to the steel bushing inside the rubber strut bushing. I had to cut it out to get it apart, and I replaced the bushing with 1 from a Toyota that I had here, along with a new 10.9 M10 bolt, and reused the special Honda nut.
There were some things I had to watch for, and disassemble differently, as everything I had seen on doing the job, were disc brake equipped, while mine has drums, and as such requires total disassembly of the drum brakes. The parking brake cable was kind of threaded thru the backing plate (held in place by 2 M6 screws).
Anyway, I thought I'd report what I found regarding my 1457 code, and it's fix.
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