first off I am new to this forum, thanks in advance for all help. I just bought this 94 accord. it is a soch F-22B2 and it is a full on show car w/ the crazy paint , shaved everything ect. first and main problem is the starting problem, The car will not start . It will just keep turning over until I spray 2 little squirts of starting fluid in the intake, Then it will fire right up and drive and run perfect from then on, until you turn it off and then you have to do it all over again. could it be a sensor? or somthing with the fuel pump. It is throwing a check engine light but I have not yet checked the code. It is getting fuel while running and is gettin great spark. could it be like a cold start sensor or some sort of sensor?

Next problem is the clutch, It does slip a little. when it has just been turned on it works good. As it gets hotter it will start to slip more and more, and even if it is just sitting in one spot in neutral it gets hotter and hotter( where you can actually smell burnt clutch smell) and it gets to the point where it will notmove at all when you put it in 1st or reverse. If I let it cool completely down it will work again until it gets hot again. It seems like it is not fully engaging while in neutral and not fully disengaging while shifting.Does the hydraulics need to be blead? is the slave cycinder going bad? I know I am going to have to replace the clutch ,pressureplate, ect. any ways but I feel as if there is somthing else wrong beside the clutch.let me know what you think?

now for the brakes, the abs light comes on and stays on. the pedal goes to the floor but with a few pumps it will build up some pressure but not alot. |I know I need to bleed the brakes and will let you know if that fixes it, but I know that the fluid level is not low (it may have air in it but not low) and that is why i worry about the abs light. could the main Abs pump be bad? or could it be a wheel sensor? let me know what you think?

Power steering, the pump is low, and it looks like some one put a different p.s. hose on that was not o.e.m. The power steering is not working but the pump is pumping. does this meen that the pump is bad or do you think the hose has somthing to do with it? Once you run a ps-pump dry for a while will it be bad from there on out due to lack of lubrication or can you sometimes put more powersteering fluid in and have it work again?

Thanks again . and I really appreciate any and all opinions and help.

 

alright i'll try to nail down as many answers as I can.... Welcome to the forum!

The starting issue, make sure it's getting fuel/pressurizing with the key in the on position, if it's not it could be a variety of things... check to see if it's getting spark when you turn it over and it doesn't start..... your check engine light may tell us more about what's really going on and it would be great if you can get that code...

Clutch: Standard or automatic? standard: watch the cylinder and make sure it's getting a full range of motion, have you checked your tranny fluid?

Brakes: when you first turn the car on/start the car listen for the abs pump to pressurize, it should try a couple of times and make a faint noise (you can hear it better in the engine bay with the hood open) if it doesn't it may be a bad abs pump. However, even with the abs out your brakes should still work just fine, if it isn't leaking fluid then it's either a bad seal failing to hold pressure or just a BUNCH of air in the lines.... does it leak fluid at all?

Power steering: if someone replaced a line and put something other than honda power steering fluid in there you're going to have problems, I'd stat by getting a turkey baster and sucking as much fluid out as you can, fill it with honda fluid run the car for a minute, turn the wheel side to side to circulate the fluid, suck it all out again and re-fill it with honda fluid... I'd do that 3 or 4 times to make sure that you have the right stuff in there.... that in itself should make a big difference

 

# 1 starting issue,,,,,,,, if car starts when you spary stater fluid,, it is a lack of gas,, could be a bad fuel main relay , very common, bad fuel pump, what you need to do is to see if ,, when car does not start, if there is power at the fuel pump ......if no power most likely a bad main relay .. if you get power back there, could be a bad fuel pump, plugged fuel filter.

# 2 slipping, ,, clutch is toast ,, replace the clutch and make sure to resurface the flywheel ,, make sure to use engine, 10w-30 oil in the tranny and not 90w gear oil

# 3 , pedal goes to floor,, you got a bad brake master cylinder,, replace it ASAP, it will get a lot worse with hot weather coming around. ..As for the abs lite coming on,, you need to read the code.. is the abs reservoir low ?? if so lite will come on, I have seen a lot of abs modulators leak very connon ( 94-95 )

# 4 if p/s fluid is very low, p/s system will not operate ,, chk for leaks, common places p/s pump frt aseal, p/s rack leaking .. add some p/s fluid use ONLY Honda p/s fluid and see if that helps
And on the final note,welcone to HAF,, and ,,,,,,,Please input year and model in your signature ,,

go to our DIY section there are HOW TOs on some of this stuff

 

thanks guys for the replys , I am going to check a couple of things and then I will get back to you on what I find out. It might be a couple of day. Also I will rent the obd1 code reader. Is there a plug under the dash like on the obd2's or do I have to use a little jumper wire like obd0?.This is my first obd1, I have had a few obd0 and 2 Obd2 . So I am not to sure where to plug it in at. thank again.

 

No code reader, just jumper the SCS connector & watch the CEL flashing.

 

I checked to see if the fuelpump was pressurizing, and it is. so it is probably the relay which I will check . Also the abs pump is full with no leaks, so I am assuming that it is probably bad, the motor has so much performance crap on it that I can not here if the abs pump is pressurizzing or not. I am going to bleed the brakes this weekend and see if that helps or if I need a new master cylinder. The clutch problem seems to be the clutch , I will try and pull the tranny off also this weekend and inspect the clutch plate, also I checked the whole clutch hydraulics and everything seems to be working ok. Is there a reason why the clutch would get hot just sitting in neutral? It seems like it is not fully engaged. Now with using the jumper on the scs connector will it also tell my the code for the abs problem, I am going to buy the code book later today so I know what all the flashing means. please comment on any of these issues. all opinions are appreciated. thanks again guys. this forum is awesome.

 

When you jumper the SCS connector, the ABS lamp will flash it's own code, instead of (or along with) the check-engine lamp. For your year, here's the ABS stuff.

Insert the jumper, then turn on the key.
Long (2sec.) flash - long (2sec.) pause - this isn't the code yet.
Short flashes for the first digit of the code - 1sec. pause - short flashes for the 2nd digit.
Long (5-second) pause, then the next code.

(94-97) ABS DTCs...
1 - ABS pump motor over-run
1 2 ABS pump motor
1 3 high pressure leakage
1 4 pressure switch
1 8 high pressure system
2 1 parking brake
3 1 pulser RF
3 2 pulser LF
3 4 pulser RR
3 8 pulser LR
3 12 different diameter tires
4 1 wheel sensor RF
4 2 wheel sensor LF
4 4 wheel sensor RR
4 8 wheel sensor LR
5 - rear wheel lock - R/L
5 4 rear wheel lock - R
5 8 rear wheel lock - L
6 - fail-safe relay - F/R
6 1 fail-safe relay - F
6 4 fail-safe relay - R
7 1 solenoid - RF
7 2 solenoid - LF
7 4 solenoid - R
8 1 ABS function
8 2 CPU comparison
8 4 IC self-check

There's NO long flashes, it's all short flashes with short & long pauses in between.

Beginning in '98 there's a whole different ABS system, with a different list of codes.

 

which pins on the scs connector do i jump? and by the way thans alot for all your help, you are cool.

 

there are 2 connectors below the glove box,, 1 has 2 wires,, 1 has 3 wires jump the 1 with the 2 wires ,, usea paper clip and jump the wires together , than read the flashes on the instrument cluster,
count the abs lite flashes and also the chk engine lite flashes if any
Also on our DIY section , there is a post on ODB CODES click on the link , scroll down and you can see what problem is according to the codes you get

 

alright , I ran the codes last night and the check engine light would flash 3 quick flashes and then ther would be a 5 sec pause and then it would flash 1 long flash and then a nother 5 sec pause . Then it would just keep repeating it self. so I am assuming that the code is 3 and 10 which would be aMAP sensor and aIAT sensor. please let me know if this is correct. Or should I be adding them together to get a 13 which would be a baro sensor?

now the ABS light did not do anything. It stayed on the whole time, no flashes at all. Is there any other way to check the codes for the ABS system?

I took it around the block lastnight after starting it with starting fluid and it runs awesome . it just won't start by itself. would either of the above mentioned sensors have anything to do with this problem?