No need to remove /loosen the cap. Just remember that is one big "@#$" seal, so you want to be sure you fasion something to drive it in straight. Just me, take it for what it is, I put a coat of grease on the back side where the spring is - in the grove where the spring rides on the inside lip. Then clean oil on the outside and inside of the "lips" of the seal.

Now if you really want to go there....yes, I have paced seals in the freezer for a few hours before install.

Again, I'm a fan of the old 3rd gens -alway done me right. So if you are there and have done all of this work to be seeing/holding parts that are wear items....replace them so you don't have to worry.

Those wear items are ~27 years old . You are there....a new clutch set (pressure plate, disc, bearing) is given, Re-surface the flywheel or get a new one (last time I got a one they were ~$40 - resurface was ~$30 and I had to wait on the machine shop).....when the flywheel of off...well the rear main seal os just sitting there...you are looking at each other....why not.

An old friend told me once....we've done all of this hard work - it is not "fun" to drop the trans - Do you ever want to see "that" again, we're here let's so it now.

 

Familiar with the large rear main oil seal. My 509 BBC has one that's at least 4" in diameter.

Good advice regarding doing everything possible while all this stuff is out of the car.

I'm having problems keeping the boots on the drive shafts from tearing. Put new shafts in not long ago, and 1 boot is torn and 2 are looking on the verge of tearing. Aftermarket? If so, which ones hold up best?

Again, thanks for all the help!

 

CV shafts are a hard one to call. There are some places that will rebuild your old ones or if they have stock of them ship them with a core charge. One of the other "mods" has talked and used them before -TX - Raxels or something like that.

Most of the big chain stores use one or two re-builders no matter what label/brand they sell the under. If you can find new ones from a chain store the boots might hold up better

 

With the fly wheel off, if I recall correctly, you should be able to drill a couple of small hole in the seal, screw in a couple of sheet metal screws, one on each side that is, and grab the screw heads with vice grips and pull the rare main seal out. I assume you are not talking about the transmission seal at the nose bearing?

 

Thanks for the tip on the sheet metal screws. Worked perfect. Rear main oil seal out in 5 minutes!
I've not decided yet on whether to have flywheel resurfaced or buy new. But, in case I decide to resurface, what's the hot tip on getting the locating dowels out of the flywheel?

 

A pair of vise grips worked for me,,be careful not to damage the dowels on removal,,,if it is hollow,,drilled all the way thru,,i would just drive them out with a hammer and punch,,if not vise grips and a little twist back and forth,,should come out fairly easily,,good luck.

 

Tried the vise grips/heating up the surrounding area plan to remove the dowels with no luck. I'm going to try to the drill-hole-through-back-of flywheel-then-drive-out-method.

I found something odd; no pilot bushing or bearing?

 

Glad to report the drill from behind method worked.

Also, I found a pilot bushing of sorts in the flywheel.

 

This is what appears to be the pilot bushing. Was pressed into the center hole of the flywheel. The Honda dealer says there is no listing of this part in the catalog. I would like to replace it. Any ideas where a new one could be found?

 

This is what appears to be the pilot bushing. Was pressed into the center hole of the flywheel. The Honda dealer says there is no listing of this part in the catalog. I would like to replace it. Any ideas where a new one could be found?