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To pull or not to pull engine for clutch/engine work. '88 LXi

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  #21  
Old 03-17-2015, 11:23 AM
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This is what appears to be the pilot bushing. Was pressed into the center hole of the flywheel. The Honda dealer says there is no listing of this part in the catalog. I would like to replace it. Any ideas where a new one could be found?

 
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  #22  
Old 03-17-2015, 03:14 PM
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When I replaced my 1996 Accord clutch with an Exedy brand clutch/pressure plate kit. That pilot bushing was included in the kit.

Daikan/Exedy was the OEM for the clutches for 1996. The cost was about $90 for pressure plate and clutch disc kit
 
  #23  
Old 03-18-2015, 12:02 PM
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Thanks for the info. Hopefully a new bushing shows up with my clutch kit.
 
  #24  
Old 03-20-2015, 08:00 AM
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For the 3rd gen....there won't be one in the kit.

You might want to go ahead and order a new flywheel - saw them on rock auto pretty cheap.
 
  #25  
Old 03-22-2015, 04:18 PM
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Boy, if that isn't a prime example of the over-engineered/under-engineered nature of this car. I can get the flywheel resurfaced locally for $25, but, now I may have to buy a new flywheel for twice that just to get a bushing! My hope is the shop that will do the resurface might have a bushing or know where to get one.

I think Honda put the good engineers on the F1 engine program for Senna and Prost and interns designed the passenger cars!

The good news is I got the new right front wheel bearing replaced without to much fuss. I had replaced this a short time ago, but it must've been a crappy bearing, cuz it went bad. Hope this one lasts! Working on the new timing belt today.

The good news is, not much of the Honda stuff I ordered has arrived. Was able to work on the Nova! I originally had decided to use a 1050 Dominator on the 509, but was dissuaded by a number of people a lot smarter than me. They said a 4150 style carb would be much better on the street. Since it will be used on the street almost all the time, I decided to take their advise. Bought an Edelbrock 2904. I arrived Friday, so got the 4500 style manifold off. That was the fun part of the day!

Thanks for all of your help. And, thanks for your service poorman212. I'm guessing, because of your avatar, you served in the military.
 
  #26  
Old 03-23-2015, 03:34 AM
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Sunday' report: Timing belt off, ready to replace it with the new one. I was thinking, as long as I didn't rotate any of the pulleys the belt goes onto, or turn the engine over, I should be able to slip the new timing belt on and timings would be just as they were. Yes? Also, I've got new gaskets for the timing cover, valve cover, and oil pan. Any other leak prone gaskets i should fix before buttoning this thing up?
 
  #27  
Old 03-24-2015, 08:34 PM
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Just me but anytime I remove a "good" timing belt I make a few marks on the old belt to the gears. Then remove the old belt and transfer those marks from the old belt to the new one...count the number of teeth between marks. You do this enough and there is no reason to even put the engine at TDC #1.

On my good old friend - the 3rd gens. Inspect the crank seal and the oil pump o-ring seal for leaks. If none, good to go.

Many cars never came with pilot bushings/bearings - the 3rd gens being one. So if you have removed the insert that was there.....well you now have a new flywheel in your future. Sorry, I wish we would have talked before you went there.

On the 3rd gen's the water pump is optional in my opinion when doing the timing belt. It can be changed without removing the lower cover - crank bolt and that. But if you are this far into it that might be on my list......most will put too much tension on the alt belt (drives the WP) such that the bearings in the WP wear way before the timing belt.
 
  #28  
Old 03-28-2015, 06:24 PM
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New parts are tricking in.

Oil pan gasket: dry or use sealant?

I can get bushing back into flywheel I think. I hope!

Yeah, water pump will be replaced, starter and alternator refurb'd, new accessory drive belts, basically any failure prone item I had to remove will be replaced.

Thanks again for the tips.
 
  #29  
Old 03-29-2015, 07:38 AM
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At the very least you want to use sealant in the "humps" of the pan.
 
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  #30  
Old 04-01-2015, 02:09 PM
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Flywheel resurface done, was able to get the bushing back in place.

Before I put trans back in, a question about it: For as long as I remember, the trans emitted a strange sound when in reverse. Like an enhanced gear whine. Above and beyond the normal gear whine. Wondering if this is common and not to worry, or should I open up the trans and investigate?
 


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