rpm bouncing
#1
rpm bouncing
when i start my car and let it warm up a lil bit the rpm starts bouncing up and down between 500 and 2200. i dont know what it is or what would cause it but its in park when it does it. it only does it when its idling in park(not drive or any other gear)
anyone have an idea
anyone have an idea
#3
Some common problems to cause that...
- vacuum leaks anywhere
- air in the cooling system - really
- throttle cable tight (it must go slack when you let off the gas)
- IACV and/or FITV dirty
- throttle plate & throttlebody bore dirty
- "BASE" idle setting incorrect
- vacuum leaks anywhere
- air in the cooling system - really
- throttle cable tight (it must go slack when you let off the gas)
- IACV and/or FITV dirty
- throttle plate & throttlebody bore dirty
- "BASE" idle setting incorrect
#4
i dont think it will be a vacuum leak since when i put the engine in a couple weeks ago i put all new hoses and clamps on it.....on the other hand the other suggestions is a definate possibility. the engine is new to me and it was pretty dirty when i got it. i need to know where the port hole is on the throttle body and where the IACV and/or FITV is?
#5
When you added the coolant, did you bleed the air out of the system when filling?
There is a bleed valve on the thermostat housing that is 12mm. Open radiator cap, open bleed valve, fill radiator until all air stops spitting out of the bleed valve. Close bleed valve, top off radiator.
There is a bleed valve on the thermostat housing that is 12mm. Open radiator cap, open bleed valve, fill radiator until all air stops spitting out of the bleed valve. Close bleed valve, top off radiator.
#6
FITV = fast-idle thermo valve = bolted underneath throttlebody
IACV = idle-air control valve = bolted onto back-side of intake manifold
Port hole on throttlebody??? Do you mean when I mentioned the TB bore? That's the big hole where the air sucks in. When you clean the throttle plate, you also need to clean the area where it closes against the wall of the TB.
IACV = idle-air control valve = bolted onto back-side of intake manifold
Port hole on throttlebody??? Do you mean when I mentioned the TB bore? That's the big hole where the air sucks in. When you clean the throttle plate, you also need to clean the area where it closes against the wall of the TB.
#7
sorry i didnt read that right, ok no i didnt get the air out of the cooling system...i just put some coolant and water in it. ill do that and clean all over the throttle body and manifold with some carb cleaner and a micro-fiber towel.
i had to move some cars around in the garage and drive way and when i went to start my car - everything just shut off! no lights on the gauge cluster the starter didnt engage, it didnt even try to turn over! i was pissed! i pulled the voltage on the battery and it read 12.7 volts and i checked all of the connections on cables and plugs looked under the dash and made sure nothing come loose on the ignition swith, checked fuses and everything i could think of. i then noticed a red light flashing on the center console near the climate control switches....it said security and a red light was flashing, i pulled the positive battery cable off for 5 mins and reset the computer, it started right up with no problems...like nothing ever happened! i was wondering if anyone could explain to me what happened or what i did to engage a security lockout or ignition kill???
i had to move some cars around in the garage and drive way and when i went to start my car - everything just shut off! no lights on the gauge cluster the starter didnt engage, it didnt even try to turn over! i was pissed! i pulled the voltage on the battery and it read 12.7 volts and i checked all of the connections on cables and plugs looked under the dash and made sure nothing come loose on the ignition swith, checked fuses and everything i could think of. i then noticed a red light flashing on the center console near the climate control switches....it said security and a red light was flashing, i pulled the positive battery cable off for 5 mins and reset the computer, it started right up with no problems...like nothing ever happened! i was wondering if anyone could explain to me what happened or what i did to engage a security lockout or ignition kill???
#8
Unless there is an aftermarket security system on your accord, there is no kill switch.
Did any of the normal things happen when you first put the key in the ignition? Like did the lights come on, beeps, clicks, etc...
Did any of the normal things happen when you first put the key in the ignition? Like did the lights come on, beeps, clicks, etc...
#10
Even a dead computer wouldn't cause that kind of problem.
I would check that all ends of both battery cables are clean and bolted securely in place.
I use a 10mm socket on the terminals, because I couldn't get a 10mm boxed wrench to clamp down on the battery posts properly.
If that doesn't solve the problem or the problem returns, then I would suspect that something is wrong with the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
I would check that all ends of both battery cables are clean and bolted securely in place.
I use a 10mm socket on the terminals, because I couldn't get a 10mm boxed wrench to clamp down on the battery posts properly.
If that doesn't solve the problem or the problem returns, then I would suspect that something is wrong with the electrical portion of the ignition switch.