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Going to be doing some repairs..

  #1  
Old 01-16-2012, 06:29 PM
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Default Going to be doing some repairs..

1992 Accord, manual, 4 door, EX (I believe)

Over the next month I am planning on doing some repairs/maintenance to the car, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips on things to replace preemptively while I'm in there to save time, or just any repair tips in general.

The car had stainless steel exhaust put in from the manifold back about a year ago, and has recently developed a leak (I'm almost positive it's from the manifold) so I will be replacing that to start off. I've never done any exhaust work myself, so I've been researching it, and one thing that I've read a few times is flanges. If I'm replacing the manifold, should I also replace the flanges? Also, besides the gasket and some bolts, is there anything else I should/need to replace while I'm at it?

Timing belt. It's definitely overdue for replacement, so I will be replacing that as well as the water pump and thermostat. Anything else I should do? Main seals?

Intake manifold gasket. It has some problems which lead me to believe the intake manifold gasket is faulty. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm doing that repair?

It needs new shocks/struts, but given the difficulty of that job and my lack of experience with suspension repairs I was going to take that to a shop. Maybe it's not as hard as I think?

I plan on replacing the plugs/wires, distributor cap/rotor, vacuum hoses and the 2 accessory belts while I'm at it, but aside from those can you guys think of anything else I should do? Also any tips for doing these repairs, or just anything with the car would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 01-16-2012, 08:26 PM
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The struts aren't anything to be afraid of, especially if you are competent enough to do the timing belt. The strut itself comes off fairly easy; three bolts on the top, I believe, and the pinch bolt at the bottom. Its been a while since I've done it, but some of the knuckle; drive shaft, tie rod, etc, has to come off, but nothing too hard. Then go rent a set of spring compressors and its no big deal.
 
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Old 01-16-2012, 09:08 PM
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I agree with skramer. Struts are not too bad of a DIY. There are some smaller bolts holding the brake and/or the ABS wire to the strut assembly.

It would be easier to buy the entire shock/spring assembly and swap it out with the old assembly. Then you don't have to worry about compressing the spring, etc... Also all of the bushings will be new. Check out prices for the assembly at sites like hondapartsnow.com or majestic honda. The retail price is what dealerships usually charge. The online sites give a discount, but shipping and handling is not included.
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:53 PM
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Default thanks!

thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it. just a couple last questions, as far as the shocks/struts are concerned, is there any benefit to replacing the ball joints and tie rods while I'm at it? or would it not be that hard to do those later on. Only other question is on the exhaust manifold. at more well known auto parts stores it goes for around 180, but I found one on ebay (DORMAN 674-529) that says it will fit (new) and it's only around 100. Anyone have experience with Dorman products as replacements for OEM parts? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Old 01-18-2012, 03:13 PM
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Are any of the suspension components loose? You can turn the steering wheel until it locks. Put the front of the car on jack stands. Try to push/pull on the tire in the 6/12 o'clock positions. Also do the 3/9 o'clock positions. There should be very little movement. If you have movement, look at the upper/lower ball joint for excess 6/12 movement. Look at the inner/outer tie-rod for 3/9 movement.

Inspect the bushings on the lower control arm while you are inspecting the suspension. There is a good ericthecarguy video on finding suspension noises that shows how to do this. Just do a google search for this video.

Replacing ball-joints or tie-rods can be done after strut installation. You wouldn't need to remove the strut to replace those items. The worse case scenario is you would have to remove the bolt going through the bottom of the wishbone and and the lower control arm.
 
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:50 PM
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To answer the Dorman question: Yes, I have used their exhaust manifold on my 95.....only issue with that, the "nuts" they supply have too large of an outside diameter to fit inside the "flange" on the pipe side.....so I had to re-use the OE ones.
 
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Old 01-20-2012, 03:46 PM
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Default exhaust leak

So I finally got the car into the garage and got some stuff removed, jacked it up and took a look at some things. The exhaust leak is definitely NOT coming from the manifold, its coming from the downpipe I believe. I already ordered the manifold, its supposed to be here today. My question is, should I probably have a shop fix the leak because it will probably require welding? The exhaust manifold looks original, should I replace that anyway as preventative maintenance? (I could also return it, free shipping, within a month)
 

Last edited by pancho88; 01-20-2012 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:36 PM
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I wouldn't replace the manifold "just because". Only if you can find a crack in it. Or if you've already ordered and don't feel like returning it... :P

You would repair a leaking downpipe by replacing it. A shop might weld it, but maybe they'll simply replace it anyway. Its a dirty job with nuts & bolts rusted & overheated, but it's not technically very difficult. Plan on replacing all the fasteners, that way you won't waste time trying to save a $1.00 bolt. Sawzall FTW.
 
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:13 PM
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I bought and replaced the downpipe recently on our '91 Accord. I ordered it online from a place called partsgeek.com. The one on it was original, but not that difficult to remove surprisingly.
 
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