This problem started around 15,000 miles ago and my car currently has just over 115k on it.
When the problem first started happening the car would every once in awhile stall and you could start it pretty much right away.
Now it runs for about 7 minutes, stalls and won't start until 10 minutes or so go by.
Stuff I know...
1) Fuel system's working fine. (Swapped main fuel relay anyway cuz I had one - no change)
2) When it doesn't start there is no spark.
3) Swapped ECU's with a known good ECU with no change.
4) Plugs are good, plug wires are new.
5) Doesn't throw any codes - though I can make it throw a code.

Stuff that seems to effect it.
1) Temperature. If it's hot out (which is mostly rare where I'm at in the Pacific Northwest except for this year) you have to wait a few minutes longer before it will start again and it will probably stall quicker.

What I'm thinking now... Crank Sensor?

Was wondering if there was a way to spoof the ECU so it would appear as if the engine's actually turning as a way to test. If someone has a procedure for checking sensor voltages that would be great.

I am going to replace the timing belt pretty soon so that would be the time to replace the pulley or the sensor.

I did an hour's worth of searches and reading but didn't get anywhere so if someone can help me out, point me to thread, etc. it would be much appreciated.

 

How did you determine no-spark when no-start condition was present? It is easy to make a mistake w/ grounding a plug to engine and visual inspection for spark.

Suggest confirming no spark w/ either timing light pickup on spark plug lead (no flash means no spark), or attempt to start w/ 5-10 sec spray of starter fluid. No start means no spark, and brief start means spark is OK, but fuel delivery is missing.

Do you have an external coil? Intermittent coil is a definite possiblity for no-spark.

Since you replaced distributor, the liklihood of CYP, CKP, TDC sensor causing the problem is doubtful.

good luck