Hello everyone and thanks for your help in advance. It's one of those events where one thing is fixed and another issue occurs. At this time my 98 Honda Accord EX 4cyl is stuck in PARK. I have currently followed the Haynes manual to perform tests. I tested the SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID as described in the manual and it does seem to work as stated. The SHIFT LEVER POSITION SWITCH (Part NO.: 28900-P6H-013) seems to be the issue. I am able to get continuity in NEUTRAL on terminals 3 and 4 but not while in PARK on 3 and 4. However the PARK light on the instrument panel is lit. This part seems to be a little expensive so I wanted to make sure it's not another issue I may be over looking.

Now about the ABS light. My front passenger tire was low and had it repaired and ever since the light as came on. I have spoken with Autozone and they said they should be able to run a scan but in the case they can not I was hoping to get the instructions to check for the code. I found one forum that I thought would help but did not see a plug in the trunk to disconnect. Will post code as soon as I learn how to get it.

UPDATE01: Went to Autozone and they were unable to pull any codes for the ABS. The codes that were pulled were P0700, P0705 and P0740. I would like to know what I can do to correct these codes. If anyone is able to direct me online or within the HAYNES manual to proceed with these codes it would be greatly appreciated.

Upon my travels to Autozone I did notice my cruise control is not working and my brake lights are out. I am thinking that this is has to do with the SHIFT LEVER POSITION SWITCH.

After reading up about ABS issue, I believe it has something to do with the front passenger wheel because it does pull to the right. This is why I think something happened after my tire was repaired because this is when it appeared. I just recently ( after the the ABS light appeared ) replaced all ball joints and the tie rods on both front tires. I also just replaced the CV Half Shaft Assembly on the driver side yesterday. After all this work was done I had a front end alignment done. The car is still pulling to the right, so thinking it has to be because of the ABS.

UPDATE02: Got the code for the ABS 8-1 ( was able to acquire code with jumper on back of OBD ). The Haynes manual states the code is for CENTRAL PROCESSING UNIT and ROM/RAM diagnostics.

Replaced the STOPLIGHT SWITCH but the car is still stuck in PARK and the brake lights and cruise control are still out.

UPDATE03: I have fixed the STUCK IN PARK issue. It was the STOP Fuse located in the POWER DISTRIBUTION BOX located under the hood. After much research I came to the conclusion that the SHIFT LEVER POSITION SWITCH only had to do with starting the car in Park. So I continued my progress and started checking all the fuses to do with the brakes. Thank you all so much for keeping on the tracks for the brakes.
**a: I do apologize but the issue is not completely resolved at this time. Even though the STOP fuse was blown, there is something causing it to do this. I had forgotten to mention that my HORN is not working as well as the cruise control. During my test drive the fuse had blown again after testing the horn an cruise control and neither had worked. I do know the horn is what caused the fuse to blow. I removed the horn relay and tried testing the cruise control and the fuse did not blow and nor did the cruise work. So I believe the issue is coming down to the horn.**
So all I have left now is to determine how to fix this ABS issue.

 

It sounds like you have four problems that are unrelated.

1. The gear selector is stuck in park. You said your brake lights are not working. Check that the brake light switch is working. There is a rubber or plastic piece that pushes on the brake switch that breaks easily.

2. The car pulling to the right. Sounds like something is wrong with the suspension. I doubt the ABS is causing this problem and I would highly suggest inspecting your suspension, because this is dangerous. Why have you been changing all of the suspension parts? Were they worn out?

3. The ABS light. This is the least of your worries right now. There is way to short the OBD2 connector to have the code(s) flashed. I know it is posted on this site.

4. Those codes are pointing towards problems with the automatic transmission. When was the last time you changed the transmission fluid? What fluid did you use?

 

1. I have just changed the BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH and there has been no change. Still waiting for the SHIFT LEVER POSITION SWITCH to arrive.

2. Yes, I am replacing all the suspension parts because they are worn. The car has over 250k miles. As stated in the post the ABS light did not come on until after the tire was repaired. So the ABS light has nothing to do with the work that I am currently doing because it is after the fact. If the ABS is not pulling and I just had a front end alignment done, then what else would cause the pull?

3. Still looking for the process to get the ABS codes.

4. I just had my transmission rebuilt for a second time 2yrs ago. I was hoping the codes I posted would have been some help, in what I could do myself to correct them.

 

1) If brake lights are off w/ brake pedal pressed, lock-out solenoid will engage and prevent shift lever to move. Need to find out why brake lights are off.

2) Suspension work (ball jts and tie-rods) presents a good opportunity for damage to ABS wheel speed sensor. Occasionally wheel speed sensor may be dirty (clean sensor and cv axle tone ring w/ rag stuffed in sensor hole). Get ABS codes to know if wheel sensor is problem.

3) ABS codes - short the service check connector and ABS light will flash the codes. Long flash (2-3 secs)=10 and short flash (<1 sec)=1 so 4-1= F-F-F-F-f. There may be multiple codes w/ a long (5-sec pause between codes). I'm pretty sure this procedure is applicable to a 98 Accord.

4) Agree w/ PAH that codes indicate potential trans problem. P0740 is an internal hydraulic fault preventing torque converter lockup. You can operate w/o lockup but will always get a Check Engine Light. Try ATF change and hope for fix.

good luck

 

1. I have changed out the STOPLIGHT SWITCH with no change. Also would like to mention that the Cruise Control is no longer working. I will be changing out the SHIFT LEVER POSITION SWITCH (Part NO.: 28900-P6H-013) next. This part is currently being shipped. My original post was asking from all the test I ran if this was the correct route.

2. I should have never mention the work that I performed on the ball joints and cv shaft. Again the light came on after the tire was repaired from a flat. The ABS light was on before I started work on the suspension.

3. I'm having a hard time finding where to locate the service check connector to short it. The best info I have found thus far is How do you reset abs light on 98 Honda Accord

4. I will have the transmission flushed to be certain on these codes.

 

1) As far as I know the only things that affect shifting AT is the brake switch, ignition switch, and the shift release button on the gear stick.

Research also shows that depressing the accelerator and brake at same time will disable shifting also. I doubt that's your problem.

2) As PAH pointed out, this is a side issue but can easily be repaired,...if you get the ABS code.

3) Look in DIY forum for guidance. It's a blue 2-wire connector and may be plugged into a plastic holder. Usually underneath glove box. Check DIY forum for a download manual for help.

4) You don't want to reset ABS, you want to read the codes. See following video, yours should be similar.


good luck

 

I think starting 1998 they didn't have the OBD-1 connector - you have to use the OBD-2 connector. I don't remember which pins to jumper, but you might try having a parts store hook up their code reader. I think that makes the connection, and while the reader can't read ABS codes it might trigger the ABS light to flash out it's code.

 

Here is a video on how to do this:

How to diagnose HONDA ACCORD ABS SRS CHECK ENGINE light | www.vehix411.com

 

STUCK IN PARK issue fixed completely. The issue was my horn. I have a HIGH and a LOW horn. Not sure was the faulted but I changed both. The HORN was shorting the STOP fuse. After changing the horns everything is working as for as the brakes and the shift. thanks for everyone's input on this particular problem.

At this moment I am currently getting my transmission flushed, to see if it will help with the codes I am getting for the codes.

Now for the ABS light. I was able to get it to flash and it is providing a series of 8-1. What would be the best steps to correct this issue? Thanks

I did find this: 81
– ABS Control Unit Fault
Probable Cause[s]

• Open or short circuit condition
• Poor electrical connection
• Faulty ABS Control Unit

 

My wife's 98 accord also pulled to the left for the longest time. It was a pain to drive. I suspect something in the suspension or alignment. We had the tyres rotated and the pull shifted to the right and just as bad. We had the alignment done but nothing changed. She bought four new tyres and a miracle happened, it drove perfectly straight from then on. I would never have dreamed it could be the tyres so do bear that in mind when trying to figure out your pulling right problem. It just may well be those tyres as hard as that might be to believe.