Timing belt water pump replacement
#1
03-09-2011, 01:10 PM
Timing belt water pump replacement
Can anyone please advice on how to replace the water pump and timing belt on a 2000 accord v6?
#2
03-09-2011, 04:44 PM
The procedure for the timing belt has a lot of steps. I would get at least a Haynes manual, but a shop manual would be better. Removing the crank pulley can be a major pain.
This is the removal for the 97 V6 just to give you an idea of the steps.
1. Remove the front wheels and splash shield (see page 5-7).
2. Remove the bolts, then loosen the mount bolt and pivot the side engine mount out of the way (see page 6-15).
3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the air conditioning (A/C) compressor belt (see page 5-6).
4. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt, nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the alternator belt (see page 5-6).
5. Loosen the mounting nuts and adjusting nut then remove the power steering (P/S) pump belt (see page 5-6).
6. Remove the dipstick and pipe.
7. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see page 6-3).
8. Remove the upper covers and lower cover.
NOTE: Do not use the upper and lower covers for storing removed items.
9. Loosen the adjusting bolt 180°. Push the tensioner to remove tension from the timing belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.
10. Remove the timing belt.
This is the removal for the 97 V6 just to give you an idea of the steps.
1. Remove the front wheels and splash shield (see page 5-7).
2. Remove the bolts, then loosen the mount bolt and pivot the side engine mount out of the way (see page 6-15).
3. Loosen the idler pulley center nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the air conditioning (A/C) compressor belt (see page 5-6).
4. Loosen the alternator mounting bolt, nut and adjusting bolt, then remove the alternator belt (see page 5-6).
5. Loosen the mounting nuts and adjusting nut then remove the power steering (P/S) pump belt (see page 5-6).
6. Remove the dipstick and pipe.
7. Remove the crankshaft pulley (see page 6-3).
8. Remove the upper covers and lower cover.
NOTE: Do not use the upper and lower covers for storing removed items.
9. Loosen the adjusting bolt 180°. Push the tensioner to remove tension from the timing belt, then retighten the adjusting bolt.
10. Remove the timing belt.
#3
03-09-2011, 08:48 PM
Check these links:
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=695821
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944
Tons of info and pictures. I did mine learning from these threads.
Start with crankshaft pulley, if you can't remove it seek help. You will need special tool.
Good luck!
http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=695821
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1908944
Tons of info and pictures. I did mine learning from these threads.
Start with crankshaft pulley, if you can't remove it seek help. You will need special tool.
Good luck!
Last edited by cadreck; 03-09-2011 at 09:23 PM.
#4
03-26-2011, 11:07 PM
Timing belt water pump replacement
robarmelas,
I'd highly recommend using the Honda service manual. I own the Haynes manual and generally use it as a guide for all repairs, but when a friend and I replaced the timing belt and water pump in his 2000 Accord V6, I compared the procedures in his Honda manual to the procedures in my Haynes only to find that the Honda manual was more accurate and detailed.
Have you replaced your timing belt and water pump yet? We've been working on his off and on for the last week and a few days (more off than on because our schedules don't mesh that well). We have learned a lot, and I hope to post the information on the forums when we're finished - probably in a couple of days - we're at the point where we can start putting the timing covers back on next.
I'd be interested to hear your experiences as well.
I'd highly recommend using the Honda service manual. I own the Haynes manual and generally use it as a guide for all repairs, but when a friend and I replaced the timing belt and water pump in his 2000 Accord V6, I compared the procedures in his Honda manual to the procedures in my Haynes only to find that the Honda manual was more accurate and detailed.
Have you replaced your timing belt and water pump yet? We've been working on his off and on for the last week and a few days (more off than on because our schedules don't mesh that well). We have learned a lot, and I hope to post the information on the forums when we're finished - probably in a couple of days - we're at the point where we can start putting the timing covers back on next.
I'd be interested to hear your experiences as well.
#5
03-27-2011, 09:04 AM
robarmelas,
I'd highly recommend using the Honda service manual. I own the Haynes manual and generally use it as a guide for all repairs, but when a friend and I replaced the timing belt and water pump in his 2000 Accord V6, I compared the procedures in his Honda manual to the procedures in my Haynes only to find that the Honda manual was more accurate and detailed.
Have you replaced your timing belt and water pump yet? We've been working on his off and on for the last week and a few days (more off than on because our schedules don't mesh that well). We have learned a lot, and I hope to post the information on the forums when we're finished - probably in a couple of days - we're at the point where we can start putting the timing covers back on next.
I'd be interested to hear your experiences as well.
I'd highly recommend using the Honda service manual. I own the Haynes manual and generally use it as a guide for all repairs, but when a friend and I replaced the timing belt and water pump in his 2000 Accord V6, I compared the procedures in his Honda manual to the procedures in my Haynes only to find that the Honda manual was more accurate and detailed.
Have you replaced your timing belt and water pump yet? We've been working on his off and on for the last week and a few days (more off than on because our schedules don't mesh that well). We have learned a lot, and I hope to post the information on the forums when we're finished - probably in a couple of days - we're at the point where we can start putting the timing covers back on next.
I'd be interested to hear your experiences as well.
Good luck to both of you.
#6
03-27-2011, 09:12 AM
I just did TB on my Acura MDX 3.5L V6 which is similar. Some points that may be helpful.
1) Removing crankshaft pulley may be possible w/ starter motor, if you confirm that engine turns ClockWise (CW). If it turns CCW, this won't work. You have to FIRMLY anchor a breaker bar against the ground or frame w/ 19mm 6-pt, socket engaged on bolt. Firmly but briefly engage starter. This may break the bolt loose easily. In my case, I think it loosened, and it subsequently came loose easily w/ propane torch heat and air impact. A safety point if you decide to use this. Don't you or anyone stand anywhere near this operation as parts might fly loose if your rigging is not secure or wrenches fail.
2) Before loosening TB tensioner, mark the camshaft and crankshaft timing points on the old belt w/ paint marks and transfer marks to your new belt. This will help insure you have belt properly positioned before engaging final idler support. I didn't do this and had some problems (3 times removing belt and re-aligning before getting it right).
3) Replace water pump, tensioner, and idler bearings. You don't want to depend on any of these components making a 2nd TB interval.
4) Lube the crankshaft bolt w/ anti-sieze before installation. This allows proper torque and ensures future removals will be less challenging.
5) I found that releasing the suction line on the PS pump and plugging pump and suction line allowed the pump to be swung out of the way.
6) Releasing the accessory belt should use a special tool. I managed w/ a linked set of 14mm closed end combination wrenches, but it was difficult and required my wife to install belt over final pulley while I held the powerful tensioner in slack position. Check for a loaner tool.
good luck
1) Removing crankshaft pulley may be possible w/ starter motor, if you confirm that engine turns ClockWise (CW). If it turns CCW, this won't work. You have to FIRMLY anchor a breaker bar against the ground or frame w/ 19mm 6-pt, socket engaged on bolt. Firmly but briefly engage starter. This may break the bolt loose easily. In my case, I think it loosened, and it subsequently came loose easily w/ propane torch heat and air impact. A safety point if you decide to use this. Don't you or anyone stand anywhere near this operation as parts might fly loose if your rigging is not secure or wrenches fail.
2) Before loosening TB tensioner, mark the camshaft and crankshaft timing points on the old belt w/ paint marks and transfer marks to your new belt. This will help insure you have belt properly positioned before engaging final idler support. I didn't do this and had some problems (3 times removing belt and re-aligning before getting it right).
3) Replace water pump, tensioner, and idler bearings. You don't want to depend on any of these components making a 2nd TB interval.
4) Lube the crankshaft bolt w/ anti-sieze before installation. This allows proper torque and ensures future removals will be less challenging.
5) I found that releasing the suction line on the PS pump and plugging pump and suction line allowed the pump to be swung out of the way.
6) Releasing the accessory belt should use a special tool. I managed w/ a linked set of 14mm closed end combination wrenches, but it was difficult and required my wife to install belt over final pulley while I held the powerful tensioner in slack position. Check for a loaner tool.
good luck
#7
03-27-2011, 05:30 PM
I strongly disagree with your advise #1.
-i would never lock ne crankshaft and use starter motor - not safe
-never use a torch - may damage seals
-never use impact gun - may damage transmission aluminum casing
I did it safely with breaker bar and extension pipe.
You can always go with risky procedure, but think twice if it is worth it, as it can turn into very expensive repair.
-i would never lock ne crankshaft and use starter motor - not safe
-never use a torch - may damage seals
-never use impact gun - may damage transmission aluminum casing
I did it safely with breaker bar and extension pipe.
You can always go with risky procedure, but think twice if it is worth it, as it can turn into very expensive repair.
#8
03-27-2011, 05:58 PM
There are risks w/ every procedure. Some personal and some mechanical.
Use of the starter has low personal risk and some mechanical risk (you could damage the flywheel which would be an expensive repair). I'm not aware of anyone that has damaged a flywheel, but it seems a possibility. Use of restraint and breaker bar carries some personal risk (parts break and injure user).
I have used both starter and breaker bar to break bolts. I gave up on 1/2" breaker bar and restraint on my Acura MDX when the extensions had too much flexibility. I have tried 3/4" parts, and found the 3/4" socket is too large to enter the restraint tool, and a 1/2x3/4 adapter w/ 1/2" socket will fail at the 1/2" adapter section (torsional shear). I was concerned 1/2" extensions or 1/2" breaker bar would break.
Air impact is lowest risk way to remove the bolt. However, this will not always work on very tight bolts. I've even seen a 3/4" air impact fail to break the crankshaft bolt loose.
Your comment about the air impact damaging the transmission is wrong. W/ an air impact, the only restraint is the inertia, engine compression, and engine friction; more than adequate. No forces are applied to transmission case. Of course the crankshaft sees equal and opposite torque (very briefly).
Pick your poison.
good luck
Use of the starter has low personal risk and some mechanical risk (you could damage the flywheel which would be an expensive repair). I'm not aware of anyone that has damaged a flywheel, but it seems a possibility. Use of restraint and breaker bar carries some personal risk (parts break and injure user).
I have used both starter and breaker bar to break bolts. I gave up on 1/2" breaker bar and restraint on my Acura MDX when the extensions had too much flexibility. I have tried 3/4" parts, and found the 3/4" socket is too large to enter the restraint tool, and a 1/2x3/4 adapter w/ 1/2" socket will fail at the 1/2" adapter section (torsional shear). I was concerned 1/2" extensions or 1/2" breaker bar would break.
Air impact is lowest risk way to remove the bolt. However, this will not always work on very tight bolts. I've even seen a 3/4" air impact fail to break the crankshaft bolt loose.
Your comment about the air impact damaging the transmission is wrong. W/ an air impact, the only restraint is the inertia, engine compression, and engine friction; more than adequate. No forces are applied to transmission case. Of course the crankshaft sees equal and opposite torque (very briefly).
Pick your poison.
good luck
#9
03-27-2011, 06:39 PM
You are very right about risks with every procedure. I'm not a professional car mechanic and before I do anything with my Honda I research and learn how do things and then I make my choices which also depend on available tools.
In regards to the impact wrench, Honda is advising not to use it for the crankshaft pulley and I'm sure I read some posts reporting damage of the casing. I've tried breaker bar with longer extension then Honda tool and it worked well for me.
So, good luck to everybody with your choices, and if you in doubt you could do it safely - don't do it.
Just my 2 cents
In regards to the impact wrench, Honda is advising not to use it for the crankshaft pulley and I'm sure I read some posts reporting damage of the casing. I've tried breaker bar with longer extension then Honda tool and it worked well for me.
So, good luck to everybody with your choices, and if you in doubt you could do it safely - don't do it.
Just my 2 cents
#10
03-27-2011, 08:10 PM
Try as we might, we could not get the crankshaft pulley bolt loose with hand tools. My friend bought the holding tool Honda sells and we tried 1/2" and 3/4" breaker bars and sockets. We're sure we heard the bolt laughing at us when we used an 18" breaker bar with a 19mm, six point socket and a foot long cheater pipe. Then I bought a 20" long 1/2" drive extension which allowed us to bring the breaker bar out from under the car so we could put a 4' cheater pipe on it. We used a jack stand under the breaker bar-to-extension joint to fix the fulcrum in space so we didn't have to worry about it moving around and rounding the bolt, but the 20" extension acted like a torsional spring effectively preventing us from putting enough of the torque onto the bolt. We switched to 3/4" drive tools, but the 19mm socket was too large to fit through the head of Honda holding tool and engage more than a 1/4" or so of the pulley bolt...we were pretty sure we would have rounded the bolt if we'd tried that with the cheater pipe, so we didn't go any further with that idea. Somewhere in all of this effort we managed to shear off a 3/4" female to 1/2" male impact-rated socket adapter at the 1/2" part.
We tried a middle weight (450-500 ft-lb of torque) 1/2" impact wrench...no luck. We did, however split a 19mm impact-rated socket almost in half.
Finally, we bought a 950 ft-lb, 3/4" drive, impact wrench from Harbor Freight (for under a hundred bucks). It had three torque settings in forward and three torque settings in reverse. The second torque setting in reverse took the bolt off in about two seconds!
All in all, we spent about two eight hour days trying to get the bolt off (what with many trips to buy or borrow tools).
I'd be afraid of using the starter motor to apply torque to the bolt, as someone suggested, for fear of damaging the flywheel more than for fear of breaking tools...my friends are smart enough to stay out of harm's way in a situation like that! Trashing your flywheel would be the start of a very bad day...
We tried a middle weight (450-500 ft-lb of torque) 1/2" impact wrench...no luck. We did, however split a 19mm impact-rated socket almost in half.
Finally, we bought a 950 ft-lb, 3/4" drive, impact wrench from Harbor Freight (for under a hundred bucks). It had three torque settings in forward and three torque settings in reverse. The second torque setting in reverse took the bolt off in about two seconds!
All in all, we spent about two eight hour days trying to get the bolt off (what with many trips to buy or borrow tools).
I'd be afraid of using the starter motor to apply torque to the bolt, as someone suggested, for fear of damaging the flywheel more than for fear of breaking tools...my friends are smart enough to stay out of harm's way in a situation like that! Trashing your flywheel would be the start of a very bad day...
