I've been off and on trying to fix this car for about 2 months and I feel as though i have searched the entire internet for an answer. I am hoping that i just don't know how to search the internet and i'm not very good at car and there is someone else who has seen/had this issue that can give me a suggestion that i have not already tried. I'm not really a car guy, i'm a computer guy but i've done minor work to just about every car i've owned. below is everything i've done. any fixes that i find for this car will be posted in this thread because this sucks:


Car specs:
2006' accord v6 3.0 EX

Issues:
VSA light on and check engine light on. Car gets no power when pressing the accelerator pedal when in D or R, and will only go to 3k rpm in P or N. Live data from OBD2 shows throttle position at 0% at all times.

Codes:
P2176 - Trouble Code: Throttle Actuator Control System - Idle Position Not Learned
P0134 - O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
The second OBD2 code (P0134) has been around since like a month after the car was bought. I do not think it is related.

Steps taken:
1. replaced brake pads, cleaned wheel speed sensor
2. Cleaned intake manifold, performed 'Idle learn procedure'
3. replaced accelerator pedal position sensor, performed 'idle learn procedure'
4. replaced throttle actuator control module relay with known good one

What happened:
I was driving the car down a VERY steep VERY long grade. I was not paying attention and i used the brakes more than i did engine braking. when i got to the bottom my brakes were smoking ALLOT. i let the car cool off for about 1/2 an hour and drove home. on my drive home the VSA light came on but no loss of power. next time i went to drive the car it was not on. i started driving and when the VSA light came on the car lost power, the car stayed on but with the pedal to the floow the car would only go about 5 mph. i pulled off the road and restarted the car and was able to drive home. i changed the brake pads and cleaned the wheel speed sensor but the issue continued. i had to drive the car a couple more times and the time between starting the car and the VSA coming on got shorter. finally i was not able to pull out of the driveway. so i bought an OBD2 reader (Autel AL519). i then preformed the remaining steps i mentioned earlier. the car will still not move. I have read what i think is a service bulletin saying that the next step is to replace the throttle body. i read another that says the next step is to update the PCM.

1st service bullitin
DTC Troubleshooting: P2176 (40) (R18A: M/T)

2nd service bullitin
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/at...4&d=1371927359

 

I'd hold off on replacing parts until you figure out what is going on.

Lets start with the simple stuff. When you cleaned the intake, did you clean the throttle plate (both sides) and the bore of the throttle body?

When you push on the gas pedal, does the cable actually turn the accelerator position sensor?

There is also a fuse for the throttle actuator control (#1 in the fuse box under the hood) and is 15 amp. There is also a 15 amp fuse (#4 in the under hood fuse box) for the a/f sensor relay. It is worthwhile to check all your fuses.

A quick way to go through the fuses is with a test light that is grounded on one end. You touch the probe to each metal tab on top of the fuse.

If the test light turns on on both tabs, then the fuse is good. Make sure the key is in the II position when doing the tests.

A bad fuse would turn on the test light on one tab, while the other tab will not turn on the test light.

Here is a video that will do a better job explaining than me typing it.

 

I only cleaned the side that i could reach. i sprayed it with throttle body cleaner, scrubbed it with a new toothbrush and wiped out any excess with a clean cotton rag. i got the back of bottom of the plate, but thats all i could reach. I should note that when the plate is at its fully closed position, i can push it in further about the width of a dime (maybe less) and it pops back out. i think this may be normal though.. i can take a video if anyone needs a better visual.

yes, just checked this.

I didn't mention in my 1st post, but i did this. I learned on a past car after $500 that this is the first thing you always do. I went out just now and double checked them all again just to be sure, all fuses are good.

 

Suggest going through the P2176 diagnostic.

One of checks is the connector to the throttle actuator control module. Check carefully that connector is correctly mated and safety latch closed. I had a similar problem w/ 03 MDX (similar V6 engine) and found latch incorrectly mated (guess who!). It's a unique latch that first engages and then closes/latches by rotating the lever (zero insertion force?). Being a computer guy you should be familiar w/ this type of latch. I've run into this problem w/ at least one other poster on anther forum.

good luck

 

so when i went to check the relay, i did look at this. i saw that it looked connected and i tried to unplug and replug it, but i couldn't figure out how to get it unplugged. you're right it is a unique thing. I will try and re-seat it.

 

The lever rotates 90 degrees to release/connect. It may appear to be connected w/ the lever in open position.

good luck

 

ok, i re-seated the throttle actuator control module but there is no change in the car

 

The problem is elsewhere then. The diagnostic tree for this code offers best opportunity to solve your problem.

good luck

 

I talked to a honda dealership to find out how much it would cost to update the PCM and he said $120. He asked me to explain what was going on that i thought i should do that and i did. He told me that if it was in the shop, they would replace the throttle body first. so i am going to do that and will post results.